FROG MAN

8/6-10 is good. That gives us time to do back to school shopping after we get back. Besides it's one less week we have to wait for the event.

Is there a horizontal left to right headlight adj. If so can it be adj without splitting the fairing?

If you want new fresh stock go to AMT. http://www.americanmototire.com/ You can also buy from a few suppliers selling on Ebay at a big savings but there usually last year stock 1 year on the shelf.

To work on the 99. Today was a nice day temps in the low 80's with a mist rain. It made for a nice evening to work on the 99. We got the right saddle bag open and latch freed up. A little duct tape ( An old muffinman trick) patched the busted hole in the saddlebag. Split the fairing and got the driving lights repaired and fixed the audio system. WOO HOO we have tunes cb,radio,intercom and everything. The fairing has major scratches with the right side screw supports busted. A little plastic wire tie work should hold it. All thats left to do is adj the headlight beam. It's pointing at the moon. Change oil & filter,check the scoot for loose bolts,move the xm radio and gps from the 89. If all goes well we might bring this thing to vogel.

Learn something new every day. I went out and turned the ignition key. The display works fine every time.:cool10:

Buddy my only regret with the kenda's is they are a little slippery on a wet highway. I now have kenda kruz's on the 89, 84, and the back of the 99. Ask Yammer Dan how easy that back tire is to mount.:rotf:

No rick just the display unit. We started the bike and rode 50 miles home with no speedo,odometer, or fuel guage.

The digital display that is. No speedometer,No Odometer, No fuel guage. We took the 99 for a test run today. Fully loaded trailer, mamamo and everything. A test run before leaving next week. All displays were working fine until we pulled into Walmart for two hours. Left the scoot outside the thermometer said 100 degrees. Is it possible the heat may have cooked something or a coincidence? I'm splitting the fairing tomorrow to check on the audio problems. Maybe I'll find a connection or digital display fuse blown or something. If this second gen trouble keeps up I may bring one of my faithful first gens to Vogel.:smash2:

Removed voyager kit and changed rear tire today. Greased splines,drive shaft,and rear axle. The brakes are new she should be ready to go. A test ride tomorrow. Plenty of bossing from mamamo see the pictures.

Right rear saddlebag on the 99 is broke. You can unlock it and push down on button but no tension on latch. It's not working the release. I can't unbolt it until after it's open. So how can I get it to release? I have a shop hammer close by but not that desperate yet.

Replacement plastic,saddlebags,cowling,rear trunk,front fender to name a few. Mamamo is very proud of her 99 and is planning a winter paint job. But before it is painted some major cosmetics need replaced. The cowling is cracked and scared,front fender has a dent, tank a slight dent,rear trunk cracked and broken underneath, The right rear saddlebag latch is broken and a hole in the lower unit. I removed the voyager kit this evening and will be pulling the rear for a tire replacement tomorrow. grease lube splines,carb sync,oil change,etc. We will be bringing it to vogel for our first long haul mechanical endurance test. The scoot runs good and has several performance upgrades but is lacking in close up cosmetic apperance. It looks decent in the photos but even the headlight ring is bent. The cassette player works but the handle bar audio control switch is bad so we can't use the intercome or CB. I'll be looking for pieces that can be repainted and picking them up a little at a time. Be sure to check it out at vogel so you will know what were looking for. Now if I can get a title and licensee for the 05 trailer. The previous owner has a certificate of title from mfg. A bill of sale from dealer and a bill of sale to me but he never had it titled. Our DMV says no you need to get a State of Maine title first then change that over. Don't make sense to me.

Ghost Rider now that is a interesting thought. I got a motor hey yammer you got some spare parts and a welder?

My 84 was in storage for 12 years. It runs strong with no second gear issues but I do have a oil leak somewhere. It seems to be dripping a little down on the collector. The motor uses no oil and only has 22K on it. I have an 89 engine complete minus starter with only 15k. Should I change out the motors to avoid the 2nd gear issue that may show up later. This swap would fix the oil issue as well. Is this a plug and play exchange or are the carbs different. The 84 probably has the plastic impeller on the water pump as well. I might decide to keep the 89 engine until I loose second gear later then swap it out. The engine cases are a lot cleaner on the 89 compared to the 84.I think the head wrench at Skid's garage could handle this job.

Pull the side panel off on the shifter side and unhook and clean the white connector pins coming from the pickup coils. They are probably rusty or corroded. If thats not it could be a wet TCI module.

Many times we over look the simple and expect the worst TCI failure. Most ignition failure causes are connection issues and not the TCI. Here are the steps I use to trouble shoot an ignition problem on a first gen with suspected TCI problem. 1. Remove battery and battery compartment. 2. Unplug both connectors from TCI box 3. With a digital ohm meter connect the black neg lead to the black battery cable. Do not connect to frame or chassis for a ground. Now measure with the red lead of ohm meter to a frame bolt or engine bolt. You should have O ohms or slightly higher.The ground connection to chassis is good.Now we are ready to measure TCI connectors. 4. On the smaller 6 pin connector measure the black wire. It should read 0 ohms or slightly higher. This is the gnd output from TCI to the pickup coil center taps. It may be easier to insert red test probe into the back of the connector plug to take these readings. NOTE: The ground comes from the TCI. You won't have a ground connection on the stator side with connector unplugged. The main ground to the TCI comes in on the output connector from the frame and loops through the TCI to the pickup coil input connector then through the pickup coil connector along lower frame next to stator. 5. Now measure the Orange,Gray,White/Red,and White/Green wires one at a time. These are pickup coil inputs to TCI.They should read 115 -125 ohms normal. If you don't have this or loss of one or more the most common cause is connector failure. (see white connector plug along frame above stator and clean contacts). 6. The Black/White wire is the Emergency Inhibit line. If it measure 0 ohms or has a low resistance the bike willl not start. Normally this measurement is done with the battery hooked up via jumper cables and ign switch on. Various sources through energized relays can inhibit this line. Such as emergency killl switch,side stand relay,tilt switch.clutch switch,etc. 7. With battery unhooked lets move to the 8 pin plug. measure the black wire should be 0 ohms system ground. 8. With the battery unhooked move the black lead of ohm meter to the Red + battery cable and turn on ignition switch. We are now going to measure the resistance back through each Primary Ignition coil to the battery positive lead. 9. Measure the Orange,Gray,Yellow, and White wires. Each should read 2.5 to 3 ohms ref the red battery lead.These are the induction output wires that fire the energized ignition coils, The Red/White wire is 13.8 volt supply line and should read 0 ohms.Thats it for the dc continuity test of connections to TCI. The Black/Yellow,Black/Red wires are from the pressure switch and should only be measured with engine running. The pressure sensor converts pressure into voltage which varys the timing advance with changes of pressure caused by rpm increase. These timing changes can be viewed with a Oscilloscope measuring the pickup coil input pulse and the corresponding output pulse for each cylinder.This is not something you need to worry about now. If all is well to this point and the obvious has been checked including Spark plugs and plug wires it's time to check the TCI. Before removing it (a patience trying task) I would plug in a spare unit. Every first gen owner should have a working spare or know where you can borrow one. If the TCI is defective remove from bike, open the case by removing the 4 phillips screws exposing the soldered side of circuit board. place in oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes to remove any moisture in module. You can remove any corrosion from solder side of circuit board with gentle strokes of an old tooth brush and an electronic contact cleaning spray. If you have soldering ability and a low wattage iron resolder all connections below the heatsink nuts on the circuit board. These are the contacts leading to the out side connectors. The heatsink nuts hold the switching transistors that fire the ignition coils. Resolder the 3 terminals of each transistor. with a magnifying glass carefully inspect the remaining solder connections on the board. Anything that has a dull color or hairline crack should be resoldered. You have now fixed probably 95 % of TCI failures. Actual componet failures are rare and can only be accomplished by electronic techinicians with specialized desoldering stations and a schematic of the TCI. Not to mention parts availability for a 20 year old technology. Watch used TCI's can be bought on Ebay ocassionally for $50 bucks. 10. The best way to check a TCI is on the bike but I have plans for bench testing later.

I just bought a complete motor from a 89 with less then 15K. I'm going to clean and polish the cases. Seal up the in's and out's. Install some fresh oil and store it for a while. I might need it for a project or sell for a profit. Is there anything else I should do for storage preparation. It was just removed last week.

Sherry what a shock to read this at 4:30 am. We are speechless for now but please call when you can. May the Lord give you strength in this hour.

Hmmmmm Like Skid said anything is For Sale. Let the bidding begin do I hear $3500.00 :whistling: Everybody should ride one just one time. Especially before you buy one.I may keep it but then again who knows. I have not had a speeding ticket in over 20 years but this thing could change that in a hurry. It's not a crotch rocket my insurance company says it's a cruiser :rotf: $6.80 cents a month to insure it.

If I can't quiet it down I may sell it. Or trade for one of those slow second gens.:rotf::confused24:

Kerker 4-1 Any way to quiet this baby down. Kerker makes a silencer would that replace my existing muffler or is that what I have now. Maybe the baffling needs repacked or my ears are more sensitive with age. 75mph not bad but 40-55 is to noisy. Wife was in bed and she could here me going through the gears 1/2 mile down the road. Must be the early morning fog. Stage 5 jet kit with individual K&N's still get 30 mpg.

I have seen this problems many times. It seems like one thread may be fine then someone will add a post and wow now it's so wide I can't read it on the same screen. I notice maybe one or two a month here.Just thought it was me.

Auto parts store. I said give me 4 NGK plugs for an 84 Venture. He said the book calls for an NGK 7EA. I said no the number has an 8 in it. He said here it is NGK 7EA for a 84 Yamaha venture 1200 engine. I said check the VMAX it takes the same plug? OK VMAX shows same thing NGK 7EA. My old plugs are NGK DPR8EA's. I'm going to take them back but just curious anybody running these 7EA plugs? They look identical in size

3 years avg and 5 if your lucky. Changing every 2-3 years with a new one is probably the best idea. I got 3 scoots. The 84 got a new one in 05,86 Vmax in 06,and the 89 in 07. I buy one a year for a scoot.

I run not more then 4 lb under max if single rider no load. Remember to check tire pressure frequently.

Yea the tires built before 2000 only had one number for the year code.