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Just added a new concealed carry option. Kimber CDS9. 9 mm, 13 + 1 as pictured. Also came with 15 + 1 magazine. Love this thing.

Keep the carbs clean with good fuel and do scheduled maintenance and you can expect 250k miles easily. The only engine failures I’ve heard of were all from carbs overflowing and hydrolocking the engine. Some have a clutch basket whine that can be annoying but not a mechanical issue. Check the rear shock for oil leaks. There’s nothing on it that can go wrong that the fix can’t be found here. It’s a top heavy bike but eats miles comfortably. They like to wind, keep the revs up around 4000 for the best performance, don’t touch 5th gear (overdrive) below 65mph. I’ve got almost 90k on mine and we’re planning a month long tour out west soon.

Here’s the blinker fluid I use.

I’m trying to decide between the bike or boat today.

I remember the day, it was a grand day, that after having lunch with the bunch of us, we mounted up to take a ride,,, in Michigan,,, everybody was ready and mounted but one bike refused to start, just nothing. Shortly there were about 4 or 5 other riders giving instructions and helpful hints, fuel was double checked, oil sight glass confirmed, booster cables were added, battery voltage checked, kickstand confirmed,,,,, just nothing was going to get this 84 to fire. Young lady rider comes over finally, climbs on the bike and attempted to start,, which it very nicely did!!! Yep, it had to be in neutral!! Funny how that happens!

I bought my 2001 RSV with 71K Miles on it. And it had a pogo-stick rear shock. I thought I would share my adventure of renovating the rear shock on the forum. I don't see any way that this shock can be disassembled any more than what is required to replace the O ring, and Yamaha says the shock is not rebuildable. But here's the deal. There is an O ring seal on the shaft just above the bottom clevis pin shock mount that will wear out and the shock fluid will leak out. When enough fluid leaks out, your rear suspension acts like a pogo stick. Running max air pressure may help a bit, but to fix it, that O ring needs to be replaced, and shock fluid replenished, which will often restore the shock to like new performance. It fixed mine! Credit to long time member @dfitzbiz (Dave) for the detailed instructions on how to replace the O ring. I PM'd him and he quickly sent the instructions and a pic of the tool he created to accomplish the O ring replacement. I guess he has a reason for not posting those detailed instructions in an article on the forum, so I will follow his lead and not post his instructions here. I have searched and read the "RSV Repaired Rear Shock 2000 Mile Update" post from top to bottom and searched the forum site but I don't see the detailed instructions that Dave sent to me posted anywhere on this site. So I am posting pics of my shock renovation journey, along with descriptions and comments. I gotta say, after putting in the new O ring and replenishing the shock fluid, the rear shock feels like new. Dave fashioned his shock expansion tool from what looks like 1" square bar stock. I did not have ready access to this material, so I ended up using what I had on hand to build a variation of Dave's tool. As you look thru the pictures, check for descriptions and comments below the pics. Shock Before Removal Harbor Freight Mini Moving Dolly Under Rear Wheel Harbor Freight Mini Moving Dolly Mini Dolly under rear wheel allows bike to be moved on the rolling jack after shock is removed. Removing the air filler hose from the bike. Removing the air filler. Removing the air filler. Removing the air filler. AIS is in the way - gotta come outta there. AIS coming out. Ratchet in place on top shock bolt. I think it's a 17mm. Ratchet in place on top shock bolt. Top Bolt ready to pull out. Loosening the bottom bolt. Bottom bolt ready to come out. Lowering and removing the shock. Shock removed, AIS hoses plugged and capped. Used rubber plugs for the bigger hoses (see red circle). Poor dirty old shock. Nice purty cleaned up old shock. What's behind the curtain? Removing the boot. Removing the boot. Boot removed. Boot removed. Hang the shock upside down and remove the air valve to allow shock fluid to drain. Draining the shock fluid. Draining the shock fluid. After about a day, less than 50ml drained out from the shock. After two more days, still the same. I waited that long only because I couldn't get back to this project for a couple of days, and figured it would be good to make sure it all drained out. So that's why my shock was pogo-ing. 50ml is not enough to provide damping. Maxing your air pressure to 57psi might help a bit but won't totally stop the pogo-ing. Now, if your shock won't keep air, I believe that is a separate problem. My shock would hold air pressure even tho the O ring was leaky. So my guess is there's another chamber or rubber balloon that handles the air pressure. Well, in retrospect, the above can't be right. The air goes in the same hole that you pour the shock oil into so the damping mechanism and air chamber are connected. Comments and experienced observations are welcome here! Less than 50ml of old fluid came out of my shock. Dave recommends refilling a shock with 125ml. Fabricating the expansion tool. So this piece of steel channel stock was cut from a 6 foot length I found laying in the middle of a street about 15 - 20 years ago. You never know when you might need a chunk of channel stock, right? Shock bolt will go thru this hole. Pusher bolts will go thru the two smaller holes. Lube the new O ring. Carefully slip the new O ring over the clevis and down onto the collar at the base of the shock. Carefully slip the new O ring over the clevis and down onto the collar at the base of the shock. Carefully slip the new O ring over the clevis and down onto the collar at the base of the shock. I made this pressure plate from plywood. It's not really sturdy enough for doing multiple shocks, but it worked fine for this one shock. This spreads the pressure from the pusher bolts out so as not to deform/bend the bottom of the shock housing when the pusher bolts are tightened. Expansion tool mounted and ready to pull the shaft up to expose the old O ring. Expansion tool mounted and ready to pull the shaft up to expose the old O ring. Tightening the nuts on the pusher bolts. The nuts push the tool and shaft upwards while the bolts push down against the shock body. O ring starting to show in the gap as the shock is expanded. O ring starting to show in the gap as the shock is expanded. Slip a small screwdriver under the old O ring and pull it out from the groove. Snip the old O ring and pull it out of the shock. Old O ring is clipped and ready to be pulled out. Old O ring. Clean and lube the groove that the O ring fits into. Clean and lube the groove that the O ring fits into. Use a small screwdriver to carefully coax the new O ring up off the collar and into the groove. Use a small screwdriver to carefully coax the new O ring up off the collar and into the groove. Use a small screwdriver to carefully coax the new O ring up off the collar and into the groove. New O ring in place. Clean it up as good as you can. New O ring is in place. Make sure it's still adequately lubed. Slowly back down the nuts on the pusher bolts to allow the shaft to retract back into the shock body. Remove the air filler hose from the shock body, and lay the shock at a slight angle with the filler tube up. I used a cheap meat injector from WalMart to refill the shock with 125ml of Yamalube 10 Fork & Shock Oil. I used a cheap meat injector from WalMart to refill the shock with 125ml of Yamalube 10 Fork & Shock Oil. I used a cheap meat injector from WalMart to refill the shock with 125ml of Yamalube 10 Fork & Shock Oil. I used a cheap meat injector from WalMart to refill the shock with 125ml of Yamalube 10 Fork & Shock Oil. I trickled the fluid in a few drops at a time to allow it to ingest into the shock body and avoid it bubbling back out. That way I'm sure all 125ml goes into the shock and I'm not guessing how much bubbled out. Connect the air filler hose to the shock body and pressurize the shock to about 40psi to test for leaks. Reinstall the shock into the bike. Reattach the air filler hose to the bike. Shock reinstalled. Rear AIS deleted. Put the side panels and seat back on the bike and ENJOY THE RIDE!

Very cool, and a creative fix ta boot! Here's to 100k more worry free miles on that shock! Enjoy!

That’s the problem it’s says “red” on the box so you can only use it on the rears.

I tried that once and then had headlights shining backwards,,,, spent days and days flushing that out. Found out that using alcohol was best in getting things back to normal,, somewhat.

Bought the points off amazon. Replaced the fuel pump points at about 16,000 miles and now at 60,000. I don’t get many miles to points on my 2007 RS Venture. this is why I remain subscribed even though o only ride my Venture a few times per year.

I lived in NOLA back in the 80's I know better than to go Downtown on Fat Tuesday, like Murtaugh said I am getting too old for this crap.

Yep. its too cold and way too much snow to ride in Western Kentucky. I have headed for Daytona at 28 degrees, but the high today is 22 with snow everywhere. So, I will wait a couple of weeks before I brave a ride.

It's a Beautiful day in the neighborhood. Just west of Houston

This is kind of on topic: To the poster that talked about compressing the front suspension when trailering, DON'T! Strap down on the lower fork and allow the suspension to operate as normal. This is not only better for the forks, it is more secure as there is no way for the bike to hop under the straps. You really don't even need a front chock, though I still use one. SRKCycles, aka Bikes and Beards has a great video on YouTube about this method. They are trying to sell you their straps(which are excellent, BTW) but it works with any ratchet strap system.

Thanks for posting your experience including pics. Very informative indeed.

Appears to be a fuel line or the fuel pump. It's actually under the seat. When I get home from this trip I am looking to pull the fuel pump cover and check. The I can call the shop.

Glad to hear you're up and running. Mine has a fuel leak. Looks like it is below the fuel pump. Traveling on Business right now and will try to get it int the shop Thursday.

I went ahead and installed the new starter and it started right up. No more Error Code 12 on the dash. Nicer weather this week, so ride days are here. Replaced the starter relay as well, but I am keeping my original starter relay for future use. It may also be a good idea for me to stock one starter assembly just in case the dreaded Code 12 returns. I will also look into rebuilding the old starter by a Pro sometime this year. FWIW, this is pretty common for another starter to go bad on these bikes but it was not really so bad to replace it. Ride Safe. Old Starter and Old Starter Relay Old Starter Relay (still good)

I’m under the assumption that with these LED turn signals that we need high viscosity blinker fluid. Is there a specialty blinker fluid that’s recommended for motorcycles?

Happy Birthday Freebird. 🎊🎉🎉🎉 Hope it’s a good one.

Changing the coolant tends to help it stop better 🤪

Thanks for all you do here, Happy Birthday ! I'm 71, it's not over ! Enjoy !

It's that time of year, changed the engine oil and oil filter, replaced the brake fluid the water content was not bad but I changed it out and bleed the brakes. After a test ride the rear brakes are better than have been since I've had the bike.

Rode for three days each way to be there. It was a hoot.

What's in the box?

Happy belated birthday Freebird! I have noticed that pesky year older too! I will catch up with you later this year.

Right click and download the file vs trying to open the PDF on-line.

Most air compressors start in an unloaded state. It should be close to "Rated" with some inrush possible. If the 10hp converter doesn't manage the inrush, you might think about adding a soft start or going with one of the newer 3 phase drives that converts single phase 208 to 3 phase. I have no idea what they cost though.

Have you changed the oil in the compressor yet? hopefully it was just low and not out of oil. site glasses are notorius for leaking oil so after cleaning the area around the site glass keep an eye on it. Hopefully you have great find.

Just did some quick research and apparently 200 volt motors are not unusual on A/C systems. I think, if I read it correctly, they are sometimes used on 208 Volt line systems. That being the case, I would go with the 10 HP drive. I think if the line voltage is within 10% of the rated motor voltage you will be fine. Wow, I haven’t been an electrician for about 35 years. I’ve forgotten a lot.

The good news is once you get em dialed in they are great bikes. Sounds like you’re well on your way to reviving a gem.

Going to Mardi Gras for the first time in 40 years. Who else is going.

Error 12 Update: Called the shop and they stated that they may be able to work on my bike, but they are 2 weeks out. It is understandable that they are unable to tell me what is wrong without plugging it in their diagnostic tool and determine the issue. With that said, I am going to handle this myself for the meantime. 2 weeks plus is something I am not willing to wait and beside my bike is already out of the yamaha 5 year factory warranty. I called Partzilla today and was able to obtain OEM part numbers for the Starter and Starter Relay. Starter: 2DF-81890-10-00 & Starter Relay: 2DF-81940-00-00. I have no diagnostic tool on hand, but I plan to replace the relay first and see if it starts and then move on to install the starter. I think I'll have fun working on the bike. About to place my order online.

I have not had this issue and I really don't even recall reading about it.

Mardi Gras has always been my dream carnival destination. My cousin who has always invited me to come for Mardi Gras, but work schedule and other commitments just could not jive with the celebration. If I am not mistaken, it is next Tuesday, March 4th and it happens the day before Ash Wednesday (educated myself on this online). May you have a great time and please let us know how you liked it.

Hope you get your ride in today! It jumped up to the 60s here in Omaha today, so of course I rode my bike to work! That sun sure felt good!

Good morning to all and happy Monday. I was able to wash the truck yesterday after a month and a half of winter weather grime. Today is about 50 degrees, so it just might be a ride day today. Have a great week.

That’s the plan today. I’m going to remove the “T” fitting from between the carbs and run it to figure out which one is pushing fuel and then I’m going to disassemble again and check needle, valve and float. My guess is the float isnt floating as the needle and valve are new but until I open it back up I can’t be for sure.

Look at the needle and seat along with the float itself.

Good evening to all! Our next week's weather forecast is looking much better. Looking forward to ride.

Ok, so went down to the local power sports place and asked the service manager if he had some old carbs on a shelf that they scavenge parts from. for a case of beer I walked out with an old Mikuni carb set that was not identical but mic’d the shaft and seal and they were the same! Now I’m back in business. now on to final adjustments of float height, air/fuel mix screws and verify I have the right jets in the right carb (as I found out they are different between carbs)… any tips would be greatly appreciated.

No riding for me too until perhaps next month. I am over here near the MD/PA line, but temps and roads conditions are not good for riding...at least in my book... A few more weeks then we should start talking more about bikes.

It's been pretty cold in Central Ohio, but, working at OSU I was surprised to see how many motorcycles were in the student parking areas. Mostly crotch rockets and adventure bikes. As for me, I'll wait for warmer weather.

Hey Steve, I'm about an hour 1/2 west of you in Graves Co. Yep, too cold and snowy. We rode to Cadiz on that 75 degree day early in the month. Looking to be in the 60's next week though. That's the way it is around here. Bill

U-Haul makes a purpose-built motorcycle trailer and the RSV fits in it perfectly. Trailer is just over 9' from inside the ramp to the front of the tire cutout in front of the trailer. Has sturdy strap loops and it is low to the ground. Only about $25/day. Hauled my bike from where I purchased it in Pella, IA to back home in Madison, MS. Wrapped tie-down straps around hand grips to the low loops in the trailer and pulled tight to compress fork (not quite all the way down). Put another pair of straps from the bag guard rail to the back low loops (hard to see in these pics). No problems during that long haul back home. Rode the bike up into the trailer to load, backed it down w/ feet flat on the ground at home. Have a slight dip in the driveway which helped flatten the ramp bump.

New bag lid covers from Ace High Leathers.

Nice touch for a custom look.

Venturerider Brothers and Sisters where has the time gone. It’s been almost 4 years since my original post. The 2000 miles I mentioned became 35,000 miles and my original repair finally failed last fall just prior to a trip to Southern Virginia. It failed again during the trip. I have had 3 premature failures that I know of. My shock and one of our members were repaired and had failed at about the same time. I had increased the fluid refill in both from 125ml to 150ml. That may have been the issue and I haven’t done that again. The other was a pinched O ring. To date I have replaced the O ring in about 70 RSV shocks with a very good success rate. I have documented the process and designed a simple tool to extend the shock to expose the O ring. If anyone would like this info send me a PM. Thanks to all who have supported me in my efforts especially DaNetFlunky and Rbig1 for donating their failed shocks to stock the initial exchange program. I have a third exchange unit and for the life of me I can’t remember who donated it but thank you also. Ride safe and ride smooth! Fitz

Not one to dismiss what others experience with their take in choice of Bikes;but; seems to me GW has moved from thrill to a different market class: and also that, the GL 1500 may just be the last of say our crowd? Anyways for myself in touring the VR1300 was a very good fit for my style. I absolutely loved swinging the clever in 2nd after timing my entrance on to the HWs over the years and just ripping through 3rd! Of course this was after I spent the time getting her to giddy-up when I dug my spurs in! You may know I've run some modified 1100 Kats, this one time my boy and I were on an inter city HW low speed stretch of nice asphalt at a light early one morning. My boy hadn't kept up with the work I'd done on the VR. When we took off he just in front and just rolling I let it rip in 1st then quick shifted to 2nd by the time 3rd was up I slowed for the next set of lights. As he pull up he lifted his visor smiled and shook his head, thinking back he was likely wondering if I was ever going to ride like a mature fellow? No way would I take the Kat in a fare fight on a straight run but I can take her by surprise..lol Not sure if any of us here have had the opportunity to ride far on a Cavalcade? I can tell you that should you find one running on all 4 and dialed in, those bikes can really move, very much an old style ride but very comfortable! I often rode her sun up and past sun down, endless torque all gears. I'm putting an engine back together for her now, her finish 1/2 done is blue marble over black pearl. I'm cutting back the marble to a more 50/50 paint as I found the marble took too much of her old style/look away.

It goes on the swing arm side here is another pic and a write up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?515-Rear-Wheel-Removal