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Well aside from polishing, I have this bike so customized this next item just seemed “needed”. The badges arrived today.

Hey Guys, This is just an FYI, NOT a shameless plug for the S.S. De-Link KIt! Rebuilding one portion of a 37 year old braking system on ANY motorcycle just puts excess pressure on all of the other elements of that braking system, in my opinion! My "Guess" is that the rear proportioning Ball Valve is stuck, and not allowing fluid to pass to the rear caliper. That valve was such a hassle that Yamaha doesn't make it any longer for any of the First Gens. (And stopped making it almost before the end of the run of the First Gens!) It was a good idea...on paper, but the nature of brake fluid makes it a sticky mess if you don't maintain the flushes of the brake fluid. Along with the proportioning valve getting "Glued" in the closed position, are the caliper pistons on your 37 year old brak system. With the position of the rear caliper behind the engine, and trapped between the rear bags, overheating was a real issue. This is why the rear M/C looked so bad, I can't tell you how many First Gens. I have received at the shop and had to go through the entire braking system, even without adding the De-Link Kit Upgrade just to get the calipers functioning again. Almost every one! The major design element of the De-Link Kit was to take the proportioning valve out of the system every bit as much as it was to convert the bike to the right hand brake lever working both front brakes and the foot pedal working the rear brake. There is NO rebuild kit for the proportioning valve, BUT a good disassembly and cleaning of the front left and rear caliper, as well as the proportioning valve without replacing any parts is the very minimum you are looking at here. You don't need to do the De-Link unless you absolutely can't get the proportioning valve functioning again. Also DO NOT get BrakeKleen on the Seals inside the Calipers!!! The seals will swell, and you will never get them back into the caliper bodies again! I have ONE final tip for bleeding out the brakes on these bikes, and that is if you are not cracking EVERY Banjo Bolt and EVERY connection point starting at the Master Cylinder and proceeding to the proportioning valve, and then to the rear caliper, (or in the case of the left front caliper, the M/C, then the connection up by the steering head bearings, then to the left front caliper) you have NO idea where the blockage is and i can guarantee that there will be AIR trapped in the braking system somewhere along the line! Period!! To simplify this, crack the first banjo bolt closest to the M/C, briskly compress the foot pedal or brake lever, close the banjo bolt, do it again until ALL of the air is gone at that joint. Move to the next connection, repeat. I find this works best with a "Helper". My wife's right leg is twice the size of her left leg from stomping on the foot pedal of First Gens!! LOL!! I have several Vacuum bleeders here at the shop, and NONE of them work on these bikes! NONE! I do use a positive pressure bleeder on Autos and Trucks that works very well but I haven't been able to adapt it to the different motorcycle master cylinders. YET! Because of my shop here in South Central Pa. I buy direct from Yamaha and am happy to share my discount with the forum members. I also offer the De-Link Kit for the members that are going to keep their bikes and want to upgrade their braking systems. I fully understand it is very hard to justify spending hundreds of dollars on improving the braking system on a 30+ year old motorcycle that you most likely paid $800 dollars for. BUT the fact remains that you need to be able to STOP that motorcycle or you are NOT going to be able to ride it safely OR sell it safely. That's why I suggested just cleaning everything up without buying new parts and bleeding the system properly. I haven't added it to the "Member Vendors" section of the forum yet, but I also offer a direct bolt on S.S. Line Set for the Second Gens. as well. If I can help you with new parts, or if you have other questions, or you are interested in the De-Link Kit I offer, please feel free to PM me. Earl

I thought long and hard about putting my current issue here on the forum but at this point I feel that a fair warning is needed. I have been a member here since its inception until 2014 when I sold my RSV. One of the first things that I have done when I bought my 2005 RSV trike was to rejoin. The camaraderie and others willing to help each other out is amazing. So, without getting into the whole he said, she said thing I'll just lay out the basic facts and go from there. I also know that this person is well liked here and other forums but my dealings with him have been less than stellar. I know your opinion of him won't change and I'm good with that. Im just relaying MY personal experience here. My trike developed the dreaded carb gas into oil leak and needed to be rebuilt. Everyone said to go with Mikes rebuild exchange carbs. I spoke with Mike and agreed to send my old carbs in exchange for a rebuilt set. Ill add here that I had replaced just about all of my fuel lines and a new filter so there will be no issues. Started it up and fuel was coming out of the overflow. It eventually stopped, and after synching the carbs it ran great until it started blowing gas back out. A call to Mike had him insisting that some debris from MY fuel line would be found in the needle. Took the carbs off, checked each needle and seat, found no debris and blew some light compressed air through. Put it all back together, fired it up and all was well until I rolled out into the driveway and started leaking fuel once again. Ran Seafoam into it and it finally stopped. Took it on a 60 mile ride and all was great until I got home and it happened once again. Now the carbs are off for a third time. Once again there is no debris visible unless its old stuff blocking one of the passageways. I then requested to send my carbs back for another set or my old set. Lets just say things went downhill from there and I now find myself basically shut down with no solution and out 500 bucks. I was trying to keep the conversation civil but it didn't go that way. Whether we see eye to eye on something or not, personal feelings are not to be in play when this was nothing more than a business transaction. Also, this isn't the first major purchase I have made with him. But that fact didn't seem to matter. He is refusing to even acknowledge my messages. I liken this experience to buying an appliance. You supposedly get a warranty. However, when you try to use that warranty all the company wants to do is assign blame first in an effort to not cover it. He claims that my issue will be the first carb issue as all of his previous rebuilds were fault free. Well, there always one but I also know of another set of carbs that had issues and it took the owner about a month to sort it out. So, take this for what it is. A fair warning. Those who have known me over the years also know that I have been very thorough and meticulous with any work that I have done on any of my bikes. At 67 I no longer have that desire to continuously work on my bikes but it has to be done out of necessity. One other thing. I made the mistake of following instructions and sent it as a gift through PayPal. Bad move on my part as it took away any recourse that I might have had. Treat people the way you would want to be treated.

This will be my last post on this issue. Took my friends carbs and replaced the needle and seat assembly with KL parts. Thoroughly cleaned them. Float levels were good. Put it on and the bike fired right up. Took it for a test ride and she's running just fine now. Even the sync wasn't that far off. Im going to be out 500 bucks on this. Make no mistake about it. However. In any future dealings with any PayPal transactions, it will be as goods and services, not as a gift. At least that way it would give you some recourse. Ride safe and have a great Thanksgiving

I think the whole point is being missed. I paid for a highly touted carb rebuild exchange that was supposed to be a plug and play operation. I shouldn’t be going through what is basically my own rebuild to find what’s wrong with it. I paid for a product and now, because it’s not working properly I have no recourse. Sometimes it is what it is. Stand behind your work, not refuse to help or correct it because of some arrogance. Since it’s a rebuild exchange I would have no knowledge of just how the set might have been treated by whatever previous owner it belonged to.

I agree and I know just what kind of problems lines , dirt , dirty filters can do ...I will no longer buy a $2.00 filter when there a $6.00 filter next to it and will only buy quality / industrial grade fuel lines I spend most of days working on bikes that have not run for years ...Good Luck and have fun

Do get back to us on how the 'new' other set works for you.

Another update: took the rebuilt carbs off for a third time now. Ran cleaner and compressed air through everything. The floats were way off too so I adjusted them to V7 Gooses settings, just like I did with my old 99. I found absolutely NO debris anywhere in the carbs or lines. Nothing in the needle or seat. Nothing in the flow chamber under the needle/seat. Even did the float test on each float and they were fine. Fired up the bike and within a few seconds, fuel was spilling back out the overflows once again. Only logical thing that I can come up with is its either a deeply crude passageway or a bad body. Now, ill say this again. I have extensive knowledge of the RSV. Learned through many years of working or customizing it. I even have 1st gen experience. Bottom line is that I gave this "plug and play" rebuilt carb set from Eykamp every opportunity to work. It is obviously a bad set. Unfortunately Eykamp refused to acknowledge and correct it and now has ceased all communications with me. He does not stand behind his work. So while many will defend him, I cannot. Im now out 500 bucks with no recourse. A good friend gave me a set off a RSV that he will be parting out. I know the set runs but im ordering a new KL rebuild kit and will replace the seats and needles myself. 86 bucks for the part and its not rocket science. Take this warning for what its worth. A warning. And in the future, if its a business transaction on PayPal, send it as such. At least you will have some type of protection.

Well, one side is done. IMHO it makes a huge difference in the overall look of the bike. And YES, I’m going to do the floorboards as well. Just need to finish the left side air cover and I’ll tackle that.

I think I can see both side of the story as I read your words. First you say that you replaced almost all of the fuel lines, so that would mean to be 'not all' and the one or two that didn't get replaced could be the culprit. Second: which of the carbs is doing the leaking, is it always the same one? Fuel lines have a tendency to break down after time, but it happens slowly, so you very well might get some nice riding time in between issues, but it will continue to happen time and time again. It doesn't take a lot of dirt to cause your issue, might even be hard to see with the naked eye. Best maybe bench test the whole set together, use only 3-4 lbs pressure. Be sure to make things act as though they were on the bike,so make fuel flow through the barbs, have them shut off and re-flow again. You can do that by using the drain screws, but only let it slowly drip, not pouring out. Replace all the fuel lines after the filter. Don't go cheap, use quality product. I agree with Mike that sending the carbs back might not solve your problem but only make things more frustrating for you both. Again, replace all the lines to eliminate that possible cause.

Well, since the accident I’ve been unable to work. After over 2 weeks I’m still having to sleep upright in my easy chair. Anyways, with all this time just sitting I’ve finally got around to polishing all those “brushed” looking pieces on the bike. So far it’s coming out pretty good IMHO.