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THX AGAIN PUC !...THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE WITH YOU IN IT !....PEACE BROTHER....COWBOY !

I said TINY leak! 😸

The way I test for parasitic draw disconnect the ground cable. hook a multi-meter set to the 10 amp setting between the ground cable and ground post. If the reading is more than 1 amp start pulling fuses until the amp reading drops. If the initial amp reading is less than 1 amp switch to the milliamp scale. Anything above 50 milliamps indicates a parasitic draw. Again start pulling fuses until it drops. Once you find the fuse that drops the reading reinstall it. Next find the any connectors to which that fuses circuits run through. The minute you pull a connector apart and the reading drops off reconnect it and go to the next connector. if for example the next connector or connectors make no difference than than you have a short some where between the two connectors. If however the second or third connector do make a difference continue to disconnect subsequent connectors until your down to the end of the circuit or circuits. Next disconnect the items that circuit powers up until your meter shows no draw. NOTE: if you do not have a multi meter a test light or bulb and pig tail makes a reasonable substitute. Connect one end of the test light to the neg battery post and the other end to the disconnected cable. If there is no draw the light should be off (or very dim due to things like clock and radio memory voltage). But if it is glowing even if not full bright Follow the same steps as above until there is a significant drop in the brightness of the bulb.

@uncledj,, hi Unc!! I agree with you,, I would definitely want to know whats causing the drain too, I dont trust Murphy and KNOW he would get me at just the perfect time so here is what I would do. I would turn off the ignition and pull the fuses one at a time and do an amp test with my multi meter across the open circuit where the fuse was. Any amp draw higher the 30 or 40 milliamps I would be concerned with. Dont forget to check ALL fuses including the main. I would also look closely at the voltage regulator/stator system in the same way. I had a regulator allowing AC thru slightly that ended up being the cause of what your dealing with. I also had a similar experience with a fried terminal where the 3 wires from the stator connect to the wire harness on the frame of one of my MK1's. If your riding a 2nd Gen, which I believe you are, another cause could be the ignition switch itself. If memory serves me correctly (getting old brother,, memory lapses are not that uncommon these days) the 2nd Gens are known for ignition switch issues? Maybe even do a amp test at the battery leads while flicking the ignition on/off and watching the meter. One thing for sure,, it dont take much of an errant draw to drain a bike battery and it is really NO FUN when Murph takes the slight draw and turns it into an instant dark in the middle of the night while crossing the desert 2000 miles from home lol.. Love ya! Puc

Man that really looks great!

Oooops.....

You have to be a certain age to get that one..

There you have it @COWBOYBILL, this is exacty what I was hoping for.. I had a hunch someone like @skydoc_17 would hop in and expound on the matter. No doubt about it Cowboy, poking around VR will definitely yield good results whether spinning wrenches or figuring out what ice cream to have after dinner... lol..

THX EARL I WILL CHECK OUT AND SEE WHAT DANO HAS TO SAY !...IF HE IS MIA OR DOES NOT HAVE WHAT I NEED {GEN 1}....I WILL GIVE YOU A HOLLER... MUCH OBLIGED..... BILL KING AKA...COWBOY BILL

There are two bolts in the same area that can cause the same type leak...the top bolt for the clutch slave needs to have a sealant on it when installed and the bottom bolt of the middle gear cover needs a washer. In addition, the o ring for the clutch shaft and the rear cylinder valve cover can leak oil and appear in the same areas.

@Red Rocket I scraped the Magnum system in lieu of the new Ivan’s Tune available for the Venture/Eluder. It’s much better and Ivan even puts a 3rd tune in besides Touring & Sport. It was $371 tax included not including shipping.

I don't know guys.... This lane splitting idea just scares the crap out of me. To many idiots out there.....

There is a write up in the read only/electrical section for installing a tach. @Carbon_One advised before on one he had purchased off ebay (I got that one but 10 years ago). Baron's is mentioned as having a lot of bounce. The one Larry advised on is stable. Issue to keep in mind of is the spark fires twice...one is a waste burn.

ahhh ohhh,,, look out world,, Corporal Newkirk is retired and got the bug!! LOL