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So does that mean you have new tires? are tired again? or asking to start a thread on tires for another round of discussion. Maybe you should get some sleep, you can get tired if you don't sleep enough,, but you'll find that out soon enough. If you mean you don't have to go to your place of employment anymore then don't be thinking that you won't have work to do. Have a great time trying to get in some R&R in-between all the new projects. Please update us in 6 months. Congrats.

When I was riding in Wyoming on Chief Joseph scenic highway a few years back they actually instructed bikers to go to the front of the line in highway construction for exactly the same reason. Way to many distracted drivers out there...

The gun part aside…because these are two very separate regulations. we started doing this in Utah a few years ago, 2019 I think. The primary focus is to prevent bikers from getting rear ended sitting at a traffic light, it has nothing to do with cutting in line. We call it lane filtering.

I have been contacted by Late Yammer Dan's son about selling the Yamaha parts. (mostly First Gen) And if I would know if anyone would be interested. I can put you in contact with him. He did state that he may be willing to sell of the complete bikes. As we all know, Yammer had a large amount of First Gen parts and a complete '99 Second Gen. I was just asked if I knew anyone that may be interested.

I officially joined the Retired Old Fart club at 0700 this morning.

The law is convoluted and not as liberal as California. However, in Arizona you can wear a gun and no helmet.... and now even cut up between cars to the front of the line and be the first to go when the signal changes to green! The law has some confusing aspects to it. You can't cut between the cars if they are "moving." There must be at least two lanes in the same direction. The posted speed limit cannot be greater than 45MPH (so no freeways) Therefore, California freeway style of lane sharing is still forbidden in Arizona. Oh, and you can't go faster than 15MPH when you do it. But you can ride with a gun with greater than ten rounds in the magazine (concealed or open carry.) The new law can be found here: https://www.azleg.gov/legtext/55leg/2R/bills/sb1273p.pdf

BANG SHANG ALANG you dah MAN brother!!! GOOD ON YA!!! Thanks for the update!! Puc

and if you can get DanL's son to toss in any left over Tent Poles in on the deal you will REALLY have some historic fire side chat material Ronnie LOL

I agree, I've had this one for 13 years now

Don’t know what’s there after the accident but I don’t have a parts bike. Having Yammer parts Is history. 😄😄😄

ahhh ohhh,,, look out world,, Corporal Newkirk is retired and got the bug!! LOL

That was it, big old jets to compensate for cone filters. Runs like it's aspose to now. Something to look for when acquiring an unknown history bike.

I might be interested in the ‘99

The way I test for parasitic draw disconnect the ground cable. hook a multi-meter set to the 10 amp setting between the ground cable and ground post. If the reading is more than 1 amp start pulling fuses until the amp reading drops. If the initial amp reading is less than 1 amp switch to the milliamp scale. Anything above 50 milliamps indicates a parasitic draw. Again start pulling fuses until it drops. Once you find the fuse that drops the reading reinstall it. Next find the any connectors to which that fuses circuits run through. The minute you pull a connector apart and the reading drops off reconnect it and go to the next connector. if for example the next connector or connectors make no difference than than you have a short some where between the two connectors. If however the second or third connector do make a difference continue to disconnect subsequent connectors until your down to the end of the circuit or circuits. Next disconnect the items that circuit powers up until your meter shows no draw. NOTE: if you do not have a multi meter a test light or bulb and pig tail makes a reasonable substitute. Connect one end of the test light to the neg battery post and the other end to the disconnected cable. If there is no draw the light should be off (or very dim due to things like clock and radio memory voltage). But if it is glowing even if not full bright Follow the same steps as above until there is a significant drop in the brightness of the bulb.

Thanks for all the great thoughts/ideas, guys. As follow-up, I DID cast my fate to the wind and left the "extra" oil IN, (whatever amount that is that makes up the difference between the middle and the top of the glass)....and put about 500 kliks on over 3 rides in 5 days.....and I haven't seen any dire consequences.....so FAR! Mind you, I haven't pulled the air filters yet to have a look-see! I'll do that today; and if they're clean and dry, I think I'll "leave well enough alone" (as our parents all used to say!!) Thanks again for the tips and tricks on analyzing engine for gasoline contamination.......WITHOUT having to engage a long distance lab fee! Cheers from the great whit......er, hot North!

I would be interested in seeing what parts are available. Please give Dan's son my contact info (in my profile)or or PM me his.

This sounds like a reasonable and fairly safe thing to do and allow. The lane splitting ala CA seems to me to be a suicide pact for bikers.

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW Corporal Newkirk!! THAT is FANTASTIC! Tip and I congratulate you and wish you nothing but the FINEST of retirement years my friend!! That is AWESOME Ronnie! God Bless! Puc

Your turn now.

Another way is to place a drop on some white paper the oil will spread slowly while the fuel will spread quickly so if your blot has a lighter outer ring spreading out faster than the darker inner spot you likely have fuel in your oil.

I have ran the 404 and my only issue with them is how poorly they handle road snakes and asphalt after the surface has been ground for resufacing. I have ran E2 E3 and currently E4 on my bike and have got great millage and handling from them approx 20k km / 12k miles. They do tend to loose cornering grip in their final days so that is something to be aware off. I also never had the road noise that so many seem to comment on with these tires.

Best bet is to go onto a Harley forum. They are the experts when it comes to trailering bikes.

Congratulations! Enjoy

Sorry if you have seen some intermittent problems with the site. I was advised that to prepare for some future software updates that I needed to update the servers PHP to version 8.0. I've been trying for days to do that but every time I tried, I would get blank pages on the site. I finally found the problem and got the issue resolved.

I have taken a sample of potentially fuel contaminated oil on a screwdriver or similar (in other words a few drops) and put a flame to it. If it lights up readily you can assume it has fuel in it but it should smell strongly of fuel too.

You the man Don, Thank You for all you do to make this site Great.

Thank you again for all your work!!!!

Not sure beyond the mess what will go wrong but the good thing is your side stand will stay lubricated.

Pretty sure I found the problem. Clue was the cone filters installed by the owner prior to the current one, plus the sooty plugs, but I needed to check all the electrical stuff first before yanking the carbs again. As you might expect the jetting has been monkeyed with. Mains are 125s and pilots are 22.5s. We're in the mountains above 8000' (9000 at my house) so super-rich when coming on the mains above about half throttle, the third clue. Just a shame the bank has to be split to get at the float bowl screws. Jets on order from JetsRUs.com. This should do it; I'll follow up once she's all back together.

As a note, this dude had what appears to be an identical problem to mine. No resolution, never been back. I'm leaning strongly toward an electrical gremlin. My speed sensor is failing the test noted above at the speedo, but not sure how to test that theory. Should have continuity between the blue/yellow and white wires on the harness side, I'm showing an open circuit. Ideas?

Still..... waiting on my clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit. Amazon canceled my order that I have been waiting on since the 10th of July. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr. Yamaha of Mineral Wells has assured me that there are 8 of them in Georgia, and it will be here Tuesday. Should be a fun time. I may trailer the bike down as I have to be in Cumberland on the 21st.

Señor Puc, how's it hangin?! Figured you'd be along, good to "hear" your voice again! I'm still firmly earthbound since giving up the flying gig in 2018, enjoying running around on two wheels that don't (mostly) leave the ground. How's things in Musky Michigan? Well-taken points you have there in your list. Pipes are open and I bought an OEM airbox to replace the cones the PPO had on it. Diaphragms passed the hold-up-to-the-light test so no tears or pinholes. They seem to return readily to the closed position after opening with my finger. One is a teeny bit sluggish on the return, another has a fairly deep gouge on the upper surface at the base, so exposed most of the time and not riding up in the bore. Metering rods are clean, return springs are in good shape. This baby is largely electronic so didn't see any vacuum advance on it. It won't accelerate uphill and I have to downshift to third then second to keep her going. I'm hoping someone will chime in on the speed sensor question

Made a few test runs trying different things, none of which worked. I jumpered the L/Y and W wires together at the speedo connector, bypassed the faulty side stand switch, checked voltage running (14.1V at idle, 14.08 when revved). So electrical issue looking less likely. Looks like I'm taking the carbs off again!