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I picked up a damaged box at a local salvage shop. Kind'a like an unclaimed freight store. The box was banged up a bit and had been re taped at one end. It was a Keter brand plastic 4' x 6' garden shed. I did a quick google search and saw they retail anywhere from $300-$700 I gave them $180.00 for it. When I got it home and inventoried it, there was quite a bit missing, including all the hardware and the instructions, but what was there was undamaged. I called Keter customer service and explained the whole story, making sure they knew I did not buy this "New" from a retailer. They emailed me a manual and parts list. Once I had a good list with part #s of what was missing, I called Keter to order the missing items. They took my order, shipped it the next day, second day delivery and would not take any payment. The box arrived Wednesday, but I just got to look at it today. They missed a couple items, but enough was there to assemble the shed. I emailed and listed the parts missing from the shipment. If they send them, Great! If not, I still have a usable shed at 1/2 price or better.

If your talking a bag to put on top of trunk, be careful. I think the rack is only recommended 10lb. Plus weight up there is bad, makes even more top heavy. When we did use it I put rain gear up there and clothes in saddle bags. Now I added a hitch a few years back and got what they call a cooler rack and put bag with clothes down there so weight is lower. With a big ole bag of clothes on the trunk lid getting in there during any stops is a PIA. This is from when I had to work for about 3 weeks and carry a bunch of work gear also.

Actually @cowpuc he did all that within the program. Fuel proportions, throttle response percentages, changed rev limit from 4500 to 5500 rpm. Also enable cruise to be set at lower speeds and in all gears. It’s pretty different from stock.

Been a while since the area members got together and was wondering if anyone would be interested in meeting up. I'm off work now until July 24th and fairly flexible on dates (other than the 11th,12th and 16th). Any one interested in a central meeting point for coffee/ice cream? Thinking Paris is still central and there is a Tim Hortons and ice cream stand close to each other.

Has anyone replaced thePTT switch? Know where to get it? The parts fiche only shows replacing the whole assembly. I’ve cleaned the contacts in the past to get more life out of it but it’s getting irritating. I use Mic Mutes so I need it operational. If I can’t find an OEM I’ll either have to replace it all or rig a new micro switch in there.

Hi All, Been a long while since I checked in. Sold the RSTD back in 2020, and switched to a Can Am Spyder for safety's sake. It's so good to see some of the familiar names still here! And dang grateful there are quite a few new names. WOWZY WOW WOW WOW!!! I noticed ole Puc is back! Last time I checked in on the site he had taken a sabbatical. It's not the same place without the Pucster. Don, I read where you are dealing with cancer again? Well, I'ma slide you into my morning prayer sessions. The Big Guy upstairs will take care of that for ya. I seriously don't know what the heck I would've done without this site during the 12 years we had Ole Red (RSTD) Y'all saved my butt many a times with fixes and ideas, and general good ole encouragement. Skydoc saving me with a clutch spring kit right before we were to head out on a 2 weeker comes to mind. Oh, and some of you taught me what a helicoil kit was, and talked me through fixing a stripped out fork thread just a few days before another two weeker we were about to take. I could go on and on. Just seriously thankful for the Venturerider site. I do most of my forum looking now at the Spyderlovers site, bein's we own one now. Nice folks, but its not VR. I'll do my best to start hanging around more. Your Friend, Big Lenny

Turns out it was EDS old trike. I had bought his old final drive unit from him when he triked it up in Buffalo. And now my friend buys it in Florida. Weird how the venture community crosses paths . Needs a little TLC but otherwise it’s in pretty good condition.

Thanks cowpuc, I'll let you know what I find when I try all that you suggested. May be a few days til I get it done.

For me VentureRider is great , have talked to a lot of good people ... Have got some great information about my 83 ZVX1200 and I am a old longtime biker but it seems that I cannot quit learning . For me buying this basket case 83 4 years ago and spending months , weeks , hours to get it running , it seems like I have stepped into a while new line of bikes and that no matter how many bikes I have worked on or been riding , that not all bikes are exactly the same

And you don't have to feel bad showing up on 4 wheels rather than 2 or three.

Let's shoot for Saturday the 16th of July with the 23th available for raindate.

Tweeks, Tip and I thought this was a thread about running out of gas...

Which side do you need the inner for. I may have an extra one. Plastex/Plastifix do wonders for repair. Inlaying some fiberglass cloth or stainless wire mesh really reinforces the repair. I even made one good fairing out of too bad ones by cutting out the bad sections and combining the good sections by joining them with plastifix and reinforcing with fiberglass mesh.

Now THATS what I am talking about and sounds like what I have heard about Ivan. One nice thing about Ivan's shop is they are very personable type of folk, including Ivan himself. I had some questions years ago about building a V-twin up/compression ratio's and adding a gear driven turbo to a HD. They were very open to discuss what they had found and how to work around tuners and such. GOOD people! A side note on the "scary" 3rd program @ChiefGunner,,, brother aint NOTHING wrong with that! Having a scoot that scares you when you want it to is actually TONS of fun! Good on ya! So does your Ivan tune have the capibilty of removing or altering the rev limiter and speed limiter? Can you (or a dyno guy) access its fuel/ignition parameters? I LOVED the original HD "super tuners" that are now outlawed because they gave us gearheads access to fully control ALL parameters and adjust fuel/ignition in 200 rpm increments. If you had a small flat spot anywhere in the full (unlimited if you disabled the rev limiter, dangerous to the motor but a valuable asset if you were really wanting to run er) rpm range you just tweeked till ya got er dialed in. I am an old carb guy who spent HOURS dialing in my race bikes and those super tuners were MAGICAL. Anyway Chief,, I am happy for you! Sounds like fun! Let er buck - Puc

Ivan’s Tuning SVTC UPDATE: Just got back from a test ride. WOW! Feels like a new bike! In Touring mode there’s no bog down taking off from start (used to happen occasionally). Power is smooth and linear. Sport mode seems to be more “awake”. Take offs are quicker, more pull bottom & at top end too. No popping on decel, very smooth. The 3rd program he did is crazy! Puts Sport mode to shame. Pulls like a freight train all the way past redline! I had to back off. It was too scary. Gonna take some getting used to. Also, up & down shifting is much smoother. No clunkiness like it used to be. With the drilled pipes you can HEAR the difference in program 3. It has a much faster throttle response and a stronger “roar”! After only a 20 minute ride I can’t say definitively, but it seems like it has less heat than before. I’ll know more when I can ride it for a while and compare. Have to wait until this nasty weather abates before I can really do a test ride. For now, I’m exhilarated with the results!

That didn't work. Will wait till I get a fuel pump to try anything else.

After thinking about it I decided not to pull the carbs for the float valve leak. With pressure on the fuel in the bowls it would help force the float to seal, right? What if after filling the bowls from the funnel I put some pressure on the funnel tubing about 5 psi to see if that would do what a fuel pump would? I think I'll try that.

Thanks for the replies. My fuel pump is not working as stated in a previous post. I will try again Monday to find a replacement that will work. I did not realize the float bowls needed pressure. I thought vacuum drew the fuel mixture in. I just drained front left and right rear carbs {the ones I could get tubing on} and sure enough they were almost completely empty. I tried pouring more gas into the funnel and front left and right rear are now puking gas out the top. They were not doing this before. So I need to pull the carbs again to look at the float needles. Maybe you could advise me on how to check the float adjustment. The fuel pump will be the next thing I try for sure. I did not run wires through jets, I saw light through them and used air pressure to blow through every port. Which ports are the low speed circuitry to blow carb cleaner through? Where do you put the carb cleaner straw. I have not been able to find a procedure to check float height and I don't have the tool the service manual calls for. When the carbs were apart I did check that they cut off fuel flow. I tried with the air cleaner box on and tight. All I'm trying to do now is make it idle. Do you need the air box on for that? I had found a fuel pump for a Royal Star. Could I use that with my original bracket? Or maybe a Vmax pump? Or the Orielleys pump? Even the used pump. I would like to replace all the carb parts but prices are insane! The jet block gaskets were something like $20 or so, would be around $80 and shipping was also around $20! Four small pieces of cardboard or whatever for $116 shipped? They could put them in a letter envelope and slap a postage stamp on it for a bit less than $20! I will get new plugs and check the compression. Thanks for all the replies. I now have things to try I did not think of.

And make sure you have the air filter in place with the lid on.

Welcome back little boy. Don't worry none about the Spyder thing, they are a great machine for some including yours truly. About the only discussion going on here is about likes and dislikes, for these machines seem to need very little in the way of repair.

A person on an E-Bike forum was complaining about his E-Bike being totally unsafe (again) because the factory forgot to put lock-tight on a frame safety latch. There seems to be a fair amount of this type of individual on that site, and in the world we live in these days, that lack in life's lessons so I wrote this in response to his post: When I was a kid back in the mid 60's, before I started chopping motorcycles in the late 60's, I chopped bicycles by hacksawing the hollow forks off Huffy bicycles and slipping the hollow forks over the forks of a schwinn solid fork set, they fit pretty good too. All was well until I tried my first wheelie on my chopped banana seat schwinn bicycle with the racing slick on its back side. I learned a lot from that 1st faceplant after those huffy forks slid down and my bikes front wheel with cut off Huffy forks attached to them went rolling on without me. Probably one of the most important life lessons I learned was that it would always be something, life happens if you engage with it. As I lay there twisted up in a pretzel this question came to my mind, "do I REALLY want to try that again, ever?". About the time the blood had stopped running down my chin and off my knees and elbows those questions were answered as I slid the hollow Huffy forks with my front wheel attached back onto my Schwinn front end and tossed my leg back over the banana seat on my chopped bicycle. I also learned there are two kinds of people in the world, those that experience living life large while they brush off the blood and broken bones of doing so and those that sit on the sidelines and let life overwhelm them with its "its always something".

Probably best to stay on the super slabs until you gat south and east of Buffalo. maybe make your way to the 16 south, make a stop at Pioneer motor sports in Caffee then south to the Pa line.

Letchworth state park is the grand canyon of the north. you might want to stop at Spragues maple farm on rte 305 in Portville NY. great place to eat. big biker destination.

The Barnett clutch was installed this evening. Took about an hour since I also cleaned up the areas I normally can't get to. Also took 15 minutes to find my darn 1/4 ratchet (never did find it - one of the kids must have borrowed it and forgot to put it back - Grrrrr). As promised, here is the installation with pictures. Here is the Barnett clutch plate as received. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-rLB7KNp/0/M/P1000116-M.jpg These are the tools required. Ball end Allen wrenches, mechanics picks, and an in-lb torque wrench. Not shown is a 10mm socket/combo wrench for removing the Stebel horn (if installed - not sure if you need to remove a stock horn) and the stock spring holder ring. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-FQTRxKX/0/M/P1000118-M.jpg Put the bike on the side stand and put an oil pan under the clutch cover side. No need to drain the oil unless you smoked your clutch. Then an oil change would be needed. Put the transmission in neutral. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-JGw69SQ/0/M/P1000119-M.jpg Take off the horn and hang it from the rear foot board with a piece of coat hanger. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-4xXPJzH/0/M/P1000120-M.jpg Take the cover off the clutch. Pay attention to where the bolts go. There are two different length bolts. I suggest taking a piece of corrugated (cardboard), draw the cover shape including the oil fill for reference. Use a small screw driver to poke holes and insert the bolts in the appropriate location in the pattern. You may notice the gasket stayed intact on the engine. I reused it. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-j9rgXjB/0/M/P1000121-M.jpg Remove the 6 bolts holding the spring in place and remove the spring and pressure plate. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-v7v9BWC/0/M/P1000122-M.jpg Here are the parts removed. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Zck5Cvw/0/M/P1000123-M.jpg Note the notches in the friction plate edges and the two punch marks on the clutch cage. This is important when reinstalling. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-sFfdMgK/0/M/P1000124-M.jpg This is where the mechanics picks come in handy. Makes the removal of the clutch disks really easy. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Gv4cfxF/0/M/P1000126-M.jpg When all is removed, it looks like this. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-V3w5RwF/0/M/P1000127-M.jpg I had done the Freebird mod which removes the inner half friction disk and small bellville spring and replaces it with a full disk. This mod reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle. I wanted the additional friction zone so I am putting the half and half back in. Here are the pieces including the wire. You are supposed to use a new wire every time. However, I was really careful when removing it and am reusing my old wire (plus, I didn't think ahead of time to buy a new one). http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-7C5gF4Z/0/M/P1000128-M.jpg To be continued. RR

Took the fairing off, took pictures for the insurance company. Both fairing halves have minor damage, but I’m afraid they’ll want to total it since the inner isn’t available anymore. Add on the windshield, chrome trim, and labor it won’t be cheap. I’ll repair it all myself if it works out right.