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We're all glad you're still around too.

Am I becoming a GuRu? 🤓 The real Gurus beat me to warning you about taking apart that switch! A spring and a bearing ball and poof! Once you spend the time finding the parts that you didn’t even knew flew out, prepare to spend time imagining how it goes back together 🤔 then look for more missing parts. As I said earlier I really should replace mine, and as you said don’t disassemble until necessary. She’s a little rough superficially but when I had the internals apart mostly the guts were intact. Also if memory serves correct I added a coat of dielectric grease to the contacts but I know for sure fluid film to the moving pieces. And no, no matter what I can’t get the sleeving to stay in the housing.

Actually there is not a lot in there, but without 1 stupid little spring, it's all kind of useless.

Hi All, Been a long while since I checked in. Sold the RSTD back in 2020, and switched to a Can Am Spyder for safety's sake. It's so good to see some of the familiar names still here! And dang grateful there are quite a few new names. WOWZY WOW WOW WOW!!! I noticed ole Puc is back! Last time I checked in on the site he had taken a sabbatical. It's not the same place without the Pucster. Don, I read where you are dealing with cancer again? Well, I'ma slide you into my morning prayer sessions. The Big Guy upstairs will take care of that for ya. I seriously don't know what the heck I would've done without this site during the 12 years we had Ole Red (RSTD) Y'all saved my butt many a times with fixes and ideas, and general good ole encouragement. Skydoc saving me with a clutch spring kit right before we were to head out on a 2 weeker comes to mind. Oh, and some of you taught me what a helicoil kit was, and talked me through fixing a stripped out fork thread just a few days before another two weeker we were about to take. I could go on and on. Just seriously thankful for the Venturerider site. I do most of my forum looking now at the Spyderlovers site, bein's we own one now. Nice folks, but its not VR. I'll do my best to start hanging around more. Your Friend, Big Lenny

I know very well what head injuries are are , and it is no laughing matter ...In 1978 I fell 20 feet to a concrete floor , fractured my skull in 4 places ,broke my neck , collar bone , 4 ribs , L5 in spine , fractured my pelvis , broke one arm .. 2 years in recovery ..I lost all memory for 3 weeks ..Had surgery on my head 5 times with implants to keep my head together ...A regular size helmet is to heavy for my neck as drives my neck into a bunch of pain ....It is only by the Grace of GOD that I am still alive today ..

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! times infinity and beyond...

Yep, know all about that. Less than 5 minutes to get things lost, whole job about 4 hrs. 3hrs 45 min on hands and knees checking out what was on the floor or elsewhere.

Be very, Very, VERY careful when taking that switch apart!!!! Lots of very small "stuff" that will go SPROING!!! IIRC, I had to actually fabricate some copper contacts when I had my issue, 'cause I wasn't VERY CAREFUL!!!

Oh wait there's more ... Thought the trouble was suit cased yesterday. This morning, removed RLU, cleaned what looked like slightly corroded contacts, thin layer dielectric grease and reconnected RLU and heh, lights work. End of problem right? Tried lights and ... no lights. Long story short, poked around switches and found the Start switch intermittently binding when thumb released. That was a lucky find! (thanks for suggesting that direction in earlier replies) Can actually simulate the problem by starting bike and Start switch will stick eventually. So, maybe the start switch and RLU combo? In any case, I can deal with binding switch for now by pulling out switch button when it sticks. Would a micro shot of FluidFilm or WD40 into the housing that the start switch rides on be recommended to loosen binding or just do a rebuild of the entire assembly? Thinking lube might compound problems down the road? Note, found RLU access fairly easy. Removed windshield and upper CPU housing. There are 2 of 4 housing Philips screws that can't be reached with a regular screwdriver. Removed both turn signal housings to access the 2 screws on both sides.

and the REALLY cool thing about those lop eared guru varmints around here is they really truly don't mind us pea brains jumping in and tossing out idea's no matter how far out they seem.. Matter of fact,, they invite it. This group of gear heads is by far, the greatest group of lop eared wrench spinning, eat to ride ride to eat, fun loving varmints the net has ever seen! Wanna see something really cool @Max, if we ever do get back to the good ol times of VR Maintenance Days and you have never been to one bring your bike with something broken and stand back and watch how quickly it comes apart and goes back together. I watched a dash come apart in less than 5 minutes one time at a MD and go back together in less time than it took them guru's to take it apart!! A job that easily would have taken me 2 hours to complete,, it was AMAZING!! Personally, I actually always enjoyed being an innocent bystander at such events at such occasions (see vid). A special THANK YOU to @ragtop69gs and Jeanie for this one!

An update... have driven the bike quite awhile now and the same issue hasn't come back so far. I still have a hiccup once in great while, usually when rolling on the throttle when the engine speed is around 2K RPM or less, I will let everyone know in case it becomes more persistent or leaves me stranded. Hopefully not, but will update either way. I am positive whatever carb issue was present before has been greatly diminished or resolved so I am going to call this issue resolved. So far I have ridden over 2K miles since the carbs have been gone over and still running strong. I appreciate the help and insight everyone has provided and will try to leave me 2 cents on issues I think I can help with for others that are having issues. I work in technical support for an agriculture manufacturer OEM so I know how frustrating it can be for persistent problems with older equipment and how much it helps getting insight from guys that have worked in the field for awhile. My wife and I just got back from a trip to where we had met and ironically, the bright spot in the trip was the ride itself. The bike did great except for the neutral light staying on during the ride back, the bike got rained on during the night, even though we supposedly had a zero percent chance of rain. I rode it to work today and during the trip back the neutral light finally went out except when it was actually in neutral. I am thinking water had gotten into a connector but if the problem comes back I will be checking again. I would much rather have the neutral light be on all the time rather than the neutral light be out all the time from what I have been seeing in the forums! Probably carbon tracking in a switch or connector or wire finding a power source where it shouldn't be from what I am seeing in the wiring diagram. If it comes back I might be making a new post but for now am enjoying riding this season compared to the last two and really appreciate the help along the way. Thanks again and hope everyone has a great riding season!

While I can't rule out the RLU, I will second the start switch recommendation. When I lost the headlight on my '86, it was the start switch interupt contacts.