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My 86 is the same story. I found this site by googling problems with it. After multiple problems every search brought me here, I felt a little guilty for the free help and joined. Best thing I ever did, met new friends I didn’t know I had and enjoy the get togethers.

Yep, know all about that. Less than 5 minutes to get things lost, whole job about 4 hrs. 3hrs 45 min on hands and knees checking out what was on the floor or elsewhere.

Agree and well said Ronnie. I`m sure this ol`87 would have hit the boneyard years ago without our gurus. Thanks again all` !

Ain’t it cool how much time and headache $12 saves? The gurus came thru again 😂

While I can't rule out the RLU, I will second the start switch recommendation. When I lost the headlight on my '86, it was the start switch interupt contacts.

I don’t remember the specifics but the headlight circuit runs through the start switch. I had a light and start malfunction there. Ended up rebuilding the switch which I really should replace. when the start switch is depressed the circuit to the headlight opens to kill the light when cranking.

My first go to in your case would be to take the high/low beam switch apart and clean it and make sure it is all there and works.

First issue with the 87' in a few years, guess it was a matter of time. Three symptoms are solid, no high and low beam and dash CPU lamp. All other lights and signals are good. There are no other known issues. CPU cycles it's self check normally turning ignition on and no warning indicator after. All other CPU functions are normal. Bike starts and runs fine. Replaced bulb. Fuse ok with 12v measured on both sides of fuse with ignition on. Flipped high/low beam and On/Off switch a few times and reseated whatever connectors accessible behind the headlamp. Tried flexing exposed wiring and connectors. Can't even get the lights to flicker once. Couldn't find a common connection on the schematics. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.

BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! times infinity and beyond...

Or maybe not to be disassembled, till necessary :)) With Start, Cancel, Cruise and Engine Stop switch clusters in that small housing, a shot of lube seemed the way to go. One of those `don`t fix what`s working`? Appreciate the heads up!

Be very, Very, VERY careful when taking that switch apart!!!! Lots of very small "stuff" that will go SPROING!!! IIRC, I had to actually fabricate some copper contacts when I had my issue, 'cause I wasn't VERY CAREFUL!!!

Forged ahead and gave the Start button gap a small dose of Fluid Film as it is the bottom switch., worked it, now smooth operation, end of binding and sticking. Can actually feel some sort of switch inside housing operate. I will disassemble housing end of season and rectify whatever needs a tweek. .

Oh wait there's more ... Thought the trouble was suit cased yesterday. This morning, removed RLU, cleaned what looked like slightly corroded contacts, thin layer dielectric grease and reconnected RLU and heh, lights work. End of problem right? Tried lights and ... no lights. Long story short, poked around switches and found the Start switch intermittently binding when thumb released. That was a lucky find! (thanks for suggesting that direction in earlier replies) Can actually simulate the problem by starting bike and Start switch will stick eventually. So, maybe the start switch and RLU combo? In any case, I can deal with binding switch for now by pulling out switch button when it sticks. Would a micro shot of FluidFilm or WD40 into the housing that the start switch rides on be recommended to loosen binding or just do a rebuild of the entire assembly? Thinking lube might compound problems down the road? Note, found RLU access fairly easy. Removed windshield and upper CPU housing. There are 2 of 4 housing Philips screws that can't be reached with a regular screwdriver. Removed both turn signal housings to access the 2 screws on both sides.

and the REALLY cool thing about those lop eared guru varmints around here is they really truly don't mind us pea brains jumping in and tossing out idea's no matter how far out they seem.. Matter of fact,, they invite it. This group of gear heads is by far, the greatest group of lop eared wrench spinning, eat to ride ride to eat, fun loving varmints the net has ever seen! Wanna see something really cool @Max, if we ever do get back to the good ol times of VR Maintenance Days and you have never been to one bring your bike with something broken and stand back and watch how quickly it comes apart and goes back together. I watched a dash come apart in less than 5 minutes one time at a MD and go back together in less time than it took them guru's to take it apart!! A job that easily would have taken me 2 hours to complete,, it was AMAZING!! Personally, I actually always enjoyed being an innocent bystander at such events at such occasions (see vid). A special THANK YOU to @ragtop69gs and Jeanie for this one!

An update... have driven the bike quite awhile now and the same issue hasn't come back so far. I still have a hiccup once in great while, usually when rolling on the throttle when the engine speed is around 2K RPM or less, I will let everyone know in case it becomes more persistent or leaves me stranded. Hopefully not, but will update either way. I am positive whatever carb issue was present before has been greatly diminished or resolved so I am going to call this issue resolved. So far I have ridden over 2K miles since the carbs have been gone over and still running strong. I appreciate the help and insight everyone has provided and will try to leave me 2 cents on issues I think I can help with for others that are having issues. I work in technical support for an agriculture manufacturer OEM so I know how frustrating it can be for persistent problems with older equipment and how much it helps getting insight from guys that have worked in the field for awhile. My wife and I just got back from a trip to where we had met and ironically, the bright spot in the trip was the ride itself. The bike did great except for the neutral light staying on during the ride back, the bike got rained on during the night, even though we supposedly had a zero percent chance of rain. I rode it to work today and during the trip back the neutral light finally went out except when it was actually in neutral. I am thinking water had gotten into a connector but if the problem comes back I will be checking again. I would much rather have the neutral light be on all the time rather than the neutral light be out all the time from what I have been seeing in the forums! Probably carbon tracking in a switch or connector or wire finding a power source where it shouldn't be from what I am seeing in the wiring diagram. If it comes back I might be making a new post but for now am enjoying riding this season compared to the last two and really appreciate the help along the way. Thanks again and hope everyone has a great riding season!

Appreciated all the responses. Once again the brothers came thru! Ok, I thought the bypass recommended would be a quicker test to eliminate the RLU which luck has it appears to be defective. Bypassed with jumpers as suggested in VerntureVet's link below. Upper/lower beams fully functional. Display 'light' indicator on CPU stays on after self check. Below is my rendition of a bypass mess, but it worked. Fortunately I have a spare 87' parts bike to salvage a spare RLU. Thanks again gents! https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/56239-reserve-lighting-unit-rsu-bypass-1988-venture-royale/#comment-671700 (side note: The 3 pig tail connection posted by VerntureVet that read green/white was green/red on this 87'. minor detail I thought worth mentioning)

Nice explanation found here pucster. Never knew what RLU was or it's function. Found the 8 pin connector block to RLU. Jumpering might be a quicker test than taking switch apart to isolate trouble at this point? I'll give it a shot. Closer look at schematic shows head lamp indicator, high beam indicator, illumination control lamp and headlight leads (all of which are out) trace back to the RLU. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/61834-location-and-access-to-the-reserve-lighting-unit-or-rlu/#comment-746566

My gut tells me the issue is RLU related if the 87 MK2's have one. I would start my diagnostics with a volt/ohm meter there if it was one of my MK1's. Should be able to diagnose the high/low beam switch from that point easier than tearing the switch apart, maybe get your hands on a schematic and see..

I won’t buy a helmet without trying it on. Too many variations out there. I’ll pay extra at a brick and mortar store. Same way with shoes.