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Yesterday went OK. Had CT Scans of almost my entire body I guess. I have a meeting today with an Oncologist but have received the test results and gone over them. I was actually scared to death to look at the results when they came and in fact, thought about it for a while before even looking. From what I can tell though, there is nothing terrible. There is only one thing listed as possibly abnormal but I don't think it's very serious. Something about possible Lipoma near my adrenal gland but it says it is likely just some type of fatty tissue and even if not, they are usually non-malignant. Chest, liver, kidneys and etc. were all good. Surprising since I've been a smoker for the better part of 50 years. So today I meet with an Oncologist and then I actually get a break tomorrow. Then on Friday I go in for the biopsy and radiation plaque surgery on the eye. I feel sure that it's going to be a very uncomfortable weekend but nothing I haven't been through before. I'm glad that I get a break tomorrow because I have a couple of stairlift service calls waiting.

Sorry that cancer has again come into your life again, Prayers up and away. I never thought that becoming a member would lead to a path in life that over the years has made for some of the best memories. And the friends that we made that have become part of our family. I have to say is all thanks to you Don for this site. I have sat and thought about all of the great people that have been able to meet, and the gatherings we have had here and it all started with over a set of carbs for a 1983 Venture. Orlin

A point well worth considering. May have to borrow an idea from the trucking industry.

Another issue, along with the wind factor, would be the length factor: Drivers sees MC, wait for it to pass but never even considers the length of the trailer. Might be a sad day for the canoe and anything attached to it, even if the other driver only caught the last 2" of it.

I sure wouldn't do it in windy conditions 😏

If it is still there.

Actually?? Really?? If my memory serves me correct Baloo and Mike were having a discussion and Baloo was indicating to his master that a ride on the Spyder might prove to be an interesting option, he sure did like the color and all!!

In case anyone is wondering what @stickhandle2 and Baloo were looking at if memory serves my right (which can be hit and miss for me at times) it was a good looking lady and her good looking female dog passing by. I thought I would take the pic catching them in the act in case I needed some hush money.

Only thing I might add, the first thing I do is suck the fluid in the reservoir out with a turkey baster and start off with a filled clean fluid reservoir. and If you happen to get air in your line and it simply does not want to play nicely, I would tie the clutch lever to the handlebar and let it sit overnight. Those air bubbles love to rise and disappear overnight. Good luck, changing my fluid is on my to do list as well.

There are about four methods I like to use for bleeding depending on the situation. Here are three of them. The 1st method I wrote up for another member sometime ago. It is the method I use for bleeding the clutch most times. The 2nd method involves using a large syringe and third a mighty vac or similar device and an air tight catch container. 1st Method 1st you will not feel the same resistance with a clutch, as you do with brakes. So do not let that difference deceive you. These are the steps I recommend to bleed a clutch, If I don't have a vacuum tool on hand. 1. Crack the line loose at the master. Before you bottom out snug the line up as you continue to squeeze the handle. Release the handle and continue until you see signs of fluid. ( Sometimes if the master was completely dry such as a new one or after rebuilding, you may have to prime it. You can do this by removing the line completely. cover the hole lightly with you finger and squeeze the handle allowing air and/or brake fluid to escape from under you finger. Before releasing the handle clamp your finger tight and slowly release the handle. repeat until most fluid comes out. At this stage it does not need to be completely air free., your just priming the master ). Once you have done this reconnect the line to the master and perform the procedure at the beginning of this step. 2. Connect a clear line to the bleeder screw, after braking it loose and making sure it moves freely, and run it to the bottom of a catch container with a bit of fluid in it. This helps prevent sucking air back into the system and makes it easy to observe for air in the fluid. 3. Crack the bleeder open at the slave and slowly squeeze the handle. when it bottoms out snug up the bleeder and release the handle. Continue until fluid starts to come out of the bleeder ( it does not need to be air free at this point ). 4. As you begin to squeeze the handle crack the bleeder open and then quickly close just before the handle bottoms out while fluid is still coming out (Do not pump the handle). Continue until the exiting fluid is air free. 5. Next squeeze the handle but this time leave the bleeder closed until the handle comes to a stop. Pause and hold for a few seconds, (this allows air to come to the top near the bleeder screw) then quickly open the bleeder and then quickly close it again while a bit of fluid is still coming out just before the handle bottoms out. Again continue until the exiting fluid is air free. 6. Finally return to the master. Squeeze the handle until it bottoms out. Pause and hold for a several seconds ( again this allows for any air in the line to rise to the top of the line at the fitting), then quickly loosen bolt just enough to allow some fluid to escape but then quickly snug up the bolt before the handle bottoms out and while some fluid is still escaping. Repeat until no air spits out. 7. When done fully tighten the bleeder and line retaining bolt. PRECAUTIONS: A)-During the process keep an eye on the fluid in the master and keep it topped up. I recommend not letting it go any lower than 1/3 full because if the master goes dry your back to square one. B)- Cover everything well with rags to protect bike from brake fluid and when bleeding the master at the line use a rag to keep fluid from spraying every where allowing just enough of an opening to allow you to observe the fluid for air. With experience you don't need to look you can hear the difference between when the escaping fluid is air free or if there is air in it. C)- NOTE: during the process you will not note a mention snug the bleeder and banjo bolt. this is because during the process it is not necessary to fully reef them tight. Just be sure to properly tighten them when you are completely done. Finally there are other methods that work well such as using a vacuum tool at the bleeder or pressure bleeding, some even recommend speed bleeders, all of which make the job However, assuming you are only working with basic tools, these are the steps I recommend I have used this method on the side of the road and never ever had to re-bleed the system afterwards. 2nd Method In this method you are back bleeding. Using a a large syringe fill it with brake fluid and force the fluid in through the open bleeder screw until fluid starts filling the master. (be careful not to over flow the master). Then before removing the syringe, draw back on the syringe just slightly to eliminate any air trapped around the bleeder within the slave and close the bleeder before removing the syringe. Finally while squeezing the clutch lever carefully crack the banjo bolt holding the line to the master to allow air to escape. Tighten the bolt before the lever bottoms out. Repeat until you can no longer hear or see air escaping. 3rd method This method involves using a mighty vac. or similar vacuum device. 1st you need an air tight catch container with two hose connections. One connection should have a hose going to the bottom of the container. This is the one that connects to the bleeder screw. The second connection goes to the vacuum tool and opens just below the top of the container. build and maintain vacuum in the container as you crack open the bleeder screw. Be sure to maintain fluid in the master while doing this. When no more air is drawn out of the slave close the bleeder. Finish by bleeding the line at the master.