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Yes.... They blink

Keep in mind: If it ain't broke, don't try fixing it. And you have no idea how much we like helping those who need it. Some of us were born to be doctors, some politicians, some lawyers, some plumbers, some builders, some electricians, and some mechanics. If we all work together we can easily do what one alone would find difficult. Oh yah, after we all built the house we also need somebody that can live in it.

Too many people think that screws are there to be played with (any screw), and seeing as the idle circuit has very little to do with the running of the engine as long as things remain clean and un-obstructed, there should be very little reason to 'play' with them, but if you do, it could make it somewhat miserable for a nice idling power plant. Now if things get gummed up or dirty, then it's time to dig deeper, hence there is a screw and the cap can be removed. Note: if the carbs were cleaned and the screws were not removed and the circuit cleaned, then you just might be running into what you are presently experiencing.

Idle circuit adjustment screws are hidden behind a sealing plug.

Yes, you would still be able to go through the synchronization procedure with one or more idle jets clogged. As long as the engine stays running at some idle adjacent RPM.

A simple test to see if your problem is idle circuit related would be to open the enricher circuit a bit and see if the throttle response off idle improves.

The idle circuit is the smallest jet that passes fuel when the throttle plate is closed. It is the jet that supplies the fuel to the mixture you are adjusting with the idle mixture screw. Having that mixture too lean could also cause a stumble off idle. The idle mixture needs to be rich enough to keep up with the sudden in rush of air when the throttle plate opens.

You can buy led panels that replace the side reflectors. Just take off the reflectors and bolt on the lights. The led panels I found fit almost perfectly inside the reflector mount. Just slight trimming. I wired mine to the running lights and turn signals. Get the LEDs that offer two different led sets per light....IE three wires. Ground. Running and turn. This way they also blink with turn signals. I also added a white led strip under the cowl wired to the running lights. Finally, added a set of lights to the rear reflector in the center and one bulb to the reflector on each side in rear underneath the hard bags. Pics show result.... The reflector on the trunk is very bright with headlights on it so I left that alone.

I like SNOW!!!!! You know it is that time of the year where I have to dust off the snow machine and and start the fall tuneups and do a few calibration runs. Since @cowpuc is not here I have to work at finding a new favorite target. @saddlebum sounds like a volunteer....... It would make @Freebird happy that he will not get as much collateral damage from Pucs overshoot, which will ultimately let me spend more time out of the penalty box in the corner so I can play more.....

Most likely the Twinkie gasket.

SNOWWWW Whats this talk about snow ? @Flyinfooljust what are you trying to pull

Put the carbs in place so that they are still half hanging out of position, so just safely kind of sitting there ready to go further into the bike. Now hook the cables being sure that the return cable is on the inside of the rod with the plastic bushing on it. Once hooked, move the carbs in place.

I've never worked on the cables with the Cruise Control system, but on the standard, loosen all the adjusters, manually open the carb throttle linkage at the carbs and install the barrel. I think I remember actually installing the cables with the carb bank in place but not mounted to allow a little movement for finageling the cable end into place.