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Not to disrupt this thread with a shameless plug, but I can offer the Genuine Yamaha Slider Assy. (P/N 1FK-14940-09-00 ) for $125.00 USD each for the forum members if that would solve the issue of wondering if the sliders are from China or not! This is my cost on them, I normally charge $150.00 each here at the shop. There would also be a small shipping charge added to the cost. Hey Tom, Because those sliders were poorly glued back together, they are heavier than they should be and obviously misaligned due to the poor glue job which is evident by the scratch marks on the outside diameter of the slider. If you would really like to bump up the mileage, get my Needle Shim Kit I offer and install it while you are replacing the sliders. If I can help you with either of these parts, just let me know. I know this seems like a major investment in a bike that is over 30 years old, but believe me when I say that when these bikes have a properly functioning set of Carbs. they are a joy to ride. I would also like to add that we as men rarely spend money on ourselves! (At least I don't) BUT every now and then I truly believe that I am worth the money I spend that brings me pleasure. Even my wife agrees with me on this. So I ask you Tom, "Aren't you worth it buddy"? I think you are, and I am sure others here think you are as well. Look at it like an early Christmas present. Even if you decide to buy your sliders from another source, That's OK with me. Just don't cheat yourself out of the fun you will have if your bike is running properly, that's the point I am trying to make here. Earl

PB, Earl ain't wrong here. Fix these carbs right, and you will be very pleasantly surprised with the outcome. You might be able to save a few $ with aftermarket parts from the linked suppliers, and if you are comfortable with the work involved, I am sure they are high quality. But, factory, drop in replacements at the price Earl is offering would be hard to beat.

Moral of this story: keep the tank full, ride it enough to keep the gas fresh, have tons of fun and miles of smiles. Setting around months at a time is the worst thing to do to these bikes. They’re built to ride not look at, that other brand of trailer queens takes care of that market.

This is Ricks main Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/rick.butler.319

Find a hobby shop that caters to RC planes and cars. They always have an assortment of small retaining clips.

Here is the factory Yamaha part with a new slider and diaphragm. It is #9 on the parts diagram.https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5107f835f870022108d6576a/carburetor-non-california-model Rick F.

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I have had the Baggershield fo several years. I think you are referring to where you are fastening the clear section in the upright position. The issue is the same in the reverse as when you reverse it to store in the lowered position.. I switch mine periodically throughout the season and do it now without much thought or trouble. I have found that it helps to slide the section over and on to the center stud first. You can add the plastic nut at this point but loosely. Then flex it from either the left or right side, whichever you are doing next, and guide it over the next stud. Then follow with the other side. Installing on the center stud holds it allowing you to bend or flex the shield. Hope this helps!

Short video of our ride to Bald River Falls.

Yup they are junk! I will second Carl's suggestion to check out the source he posted a link to for the diaphragms. I have purchased from them on several occasions and am currently running their diaphragms in my present bike. another popular source is https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?search=search&make=2&model=xvz1300&part=1&partno=&x=36&y=11 The only thing is I believe they do not supply the slider but if you can come up with some good used sliders and need diaphragms these are good sources.

Here's a link for the parts: http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html

lumvmy40 is correct on all accounts although you should have no issue detecting a slipping clutch. One thing with these V4's to keep in mind they run so well even on three cylinders that you don't notice sometimes that one cylinder is not firing until you try pulling up a grade in around the 2000 rpm range or find yourself down shifting on a hard pull or uphill grade sooner than you normally would. Though the Gen 2 is not as a quick as the Gen 1 specially the MK1 (83-85) they still are no slouch for a big bike with a stock engine. Check and make sure its firing on all four ( it may be something as simple as a bad plug ). Simplest place to start is to check and make sure you have spark on all four cylinders and if you do try a new set of plugs ( even a set of new plugs can sometimes have a faulty one ). f the bike had been sitting I would drain all the fuel including the carbs, replace with fresh gas and half a can of Seafoam to a full tank and take it for a good run keeping my rpms closer to the upper rpm range Who knows when the bike last had a valve set, it may be overdue which leaves the chance that there is not enough valve clearance which can compromise your compression values because if the valves are too tight they may not fully seat or have a longer open time than they should. So going over your valve settings is always a good idea. Carb issues is another thing to consider. whether it has had ethanol free gas or not crud can still build up in carb if it has been sitting. as the gas ages it begins to separate as volatile vapors evaporate from the gas. Sliders may become sticky and diaphragms may get old and brittle or just develop pin holes this were removing the diaphragms and sliders to inspect them is a good idea and while they are out give the carb a good flushing with a quality carb cleaner. Note as good as seafoam is as an additive, as a cold cleaning spray it is not as good as some of the more carb cleaning sprays. Even though it may have always used ethanol free gas keep in mind all gas still contains a small degree of moisture. As well depending on how often the bike has sat for long stretches there is condensation within the tank to consider. The lower the fuel level in the tank the more free surface area within the tank the more condensation/moisture accumulates in the tank. If the bike is never ridden with the valve in the reserve position this can allow for a nice collection of water to develop in the tank. ( I ride with the bike in reserve at all times except when on long road trips so that gas is always picked up from the lowest point in the tank to avoid accumulation of contaminates in the lower section of the tank ).

Not normal and can't be glued. It has happened before but not very often. Best get all 4 sliders and diaphragms, at least that is what I would do.

The '83 is far more snappy out of the hole than the Gen 2. The '83 is by far the fastest, most nimble bike of the family and, one might even argue, of it's class across the board. However, the Gen2 is far from a pig. It should out perform any but the top performance HDs. Is your engine bogging on the hole shot or is your clutch slipping? Clutch slippage is a universal problem with the stock Gen2 and there are a few clutch upgrade kits available. Skydoc_17 sells a great clutch upgrade kit at a competitive price. There is also a Barnett kit out there. I'd start by verifying you are firing on all 4 cylinders then a carb sync.

Craig If i had a girl with long legs i wouldn't be spending time here.