Leaderboard

I hade COVID19 back in Dec. 2019, confirmed with anitibodies test. This was long before anyone(except Anthony Fauci) had even heard of COVID19. I have been exposed to COVID19 several times since then and always tested negative for infection. I should be forced to take an inadequately tested, experimental"vaccine"(it's not a true vaccine), with the possibility of severe side effects, including death when I have more/better antibodies to the infection than the "vaccine" provides? Not in this lifetime.

Just don’t get why people are so freaked out (actually it’s the media fault) over a virus with a 99.97% recovery rate? More people die every year from flu not to mention pneumonia. Then let’s throw in heart disease from obesity and diabetes. Are they mandating flu shots every year? Do we go into lock down and distancing every flu season? When was the last time you were ordered to put down the ice cream spoon, push the bowl away and get off your fat lazy butt and exercise? As this whole Saul Alinsky plan is implemented we are losing more and more of our freedoms under the guise of “safety” and “the greater good”. This is the same exact path (for you true historians) that Germany took in 1938. I pray America wake up before it’s too late, for once freedoms (any of them) are surrendered willingly they can only be regained by force.

I get that, however that’s the same argument people use to try to ban motorcycles, force helmet laws, seatbelts, alcohol, tobacco etc. etc. The city stopped short of mandating the shot but made life so hard at work if you didn’t that I finally caved and got it. As far as the $$$ I get the same feeling every time I see my tax dollars and med bills wasted for those that choose not to work and pay their own way. I finally came to the conclusion I’m gonna work, pay my bills, and live like I want while a 1/3 of my income disappears since I only get one shot at it.

If you go with dial gauges, get liquid damped gauges and make sure to install restrictors at the far end of the hoses. I've had the Morgan Carbtune Pro for many, many years and it just works. You might need to clean the rods and channels if you get any contamination in there. It's not a dificult job.

North of you!? That's like the North pole!

I consider myself a numbers guy also. I believe there is flaw in your statement. The big fear, especially early on, was the asymptomatic infected. How many have had the virus and never really knew it? This was the catalyst of the shut down of the world and continues to be the big thing behind the mask mandates. That could be a small insignificant number or it can be so large that it would change the conversation of the Virus completely. I lean towards the the middle of the road on that question. Why? There was a push around August of last year, more of an advertising campaign, for people to get tested for the antibodies. I know 10 or so people who were tested and 4 had the antibodies. Never knew they had the virus. Let's use 15 who got tested to be conservative. That's 3.75% of a sample, way to small of a sample to extrapolate. But the CDC has documented about a 10% infection rate of the entire US population. Fauchi has stated months ago that he estimates 14% - 20% of the US has been infected. ~37 million confirmed cases and ~323 million population is 11.5% of the US - pulled from this mornings totals. That would put Fauchi's low number inline with my experience but on the high end it would be more than the 9% based on todays numbers. There are also some Scientists who believe we have had a 50% infection rate already. This is a number I highly doubt too. My general rule of Thumb, take the 2 extremes then pick the dead center and you will be far closer than anyone else.

First place I would check is the carbs, starting with the diaphragms and checking for holes in them. They will wear and developed pin holes in them that effect the performance of the bike. There are replacement available for a number of source, but dont buy this ones from China that are on ebay cheap. Here one source that has them available. https://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=1794 Another thing to try on the carbs is called shotgunning them with carb cleaner. Check the tech library or do a search on it in the internet and you will find a procedure on how to do that. The Vmax guys come up with it I believe and it does seem to help out with carbs that have some dirt in them. Also if they are okay or need replacing, you need to also sync the carbs and see if that helps. Most likely it is off some but shouldnt effect the bike like you are describing. I would check plug wires and spark plug cabs and replace or upgrade them if needed, and yes the spark plugs also. Becareful as there is a small o-ring that holds the sparkplug wire in the coil when you remove the wire, as you dont want to loose that. You may also need to get the valves clearances set properly if that hasnt been done or if you are not sure when the were last done. There is a kit available from one of the members here and all he request is that you buy new valve cover gaskets from him. I have an 89 and I usually average between 35 to 43 mpg depending on my wrist action and have no problem going up to redline quickly. Hope this helps. Rick F.

Definitely not normal! The Gen 1's will pull hard to and past red line(no rev limiter). I've had my '83 over the ton many times. She did not get great mileage, 34-36 mpg on the best days, but I really rode her like I stole her more often than not. My '86 is almost as fast but not as quick, if that makes sense. She gets closer to 40 mpg, but I also didn't tend to push the red line as hard on her. You should be able to cruise at 65 mph, drop a gear or 2, go WOT and hold on for dear life.

Hi all, For us older riders, to include my brother @cowpuc I did a review on the Copper Joint compression socks and knee sleeve. Seriously, the FDA and the CDC both recommend them for people that sit a lot, like we do gas stop to gas stop. I don't know about you but I get light headed getting up from the ground after playing with my grandson on the floor. Here is my review. Copper Joint has an interesting twist that worked for me but I also bought other brands now that I know compression socks work for m https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2021/08/21/copperjoint-compression-socks-and-sleeve-review-riding-tested/ Hope this helps, Comments always welcome. VentureFar...

Been waffling on upgrading the 83 for couple years. Priced right, already had the upgraded seat for tall, fat boys (like me), exhaust really sounds nice. 2013 Honda Gold Wing F6B Deluxe Led lights, Pathfinder turn signals and running lights with integrated turn signals Kuryakan running lights ?, Cobra 6 into 6 exhaust installed with torque loops, Ultimate king seat. 24k miles, 1/2 worn tires. Great records, one owner, always dealer serviced.

I've been using a Carbtune for 15 years, haven't had any issues and it's been all over the USA.

Post a picture of your bike, we can then confirm to you what you purchased. I have seen many RoadStars listed as RoyalStars and vice versa on Craigs list and other places.

Ordered the carbtune pro 4, should be here this weekend.

What is that supposed to be... ............

Motion Pro uses manometer fluid and is probably the most accurate and sensitive though incorrectly used the fluid could get sucked right out of it. Morgan Carb Tune is probably one of the more popular and since it uses rods rather than fluid, fluid loss is not an issue. Storage and transporting is not an issue either. However on the odd occasion the rods have been known to get sticky if some foreign material found its way into the tool. I occasionally check mine by using a homemade 5 port manifold to which I connect all four hoses and a mighty vac applie vacuum and make sure all four rods read the same. You can also use this test on the gauge type to ensure they all read the same as well. The Four Gauge set is probably the most trouble free and unlike the first two it does not need to hang vertical and can be used in any position. You do have to check the gauges and make sure all four read in sync with one another as with the morgan. Home Made you can also make your own using four gauges or a single gauge with four valves on a rigged up manifold. Below is a PDF for one I made from scrap parts. You can make a similar one by combining brass parts as well (that is How Marcarl made his which is where I got the idea for mine ) The single gauge eliminates discrepancy between gauges and the valves allow you to both select the cylinder you want to check and dampen the pulses so you get a steady needle reading. Use of the valves to dampen pulses eliminates the need for restrictions in the hoses or the more expensive fluid dampened gauges which I find often tend to loose their fluid over time The down side is you cannot check all four cylinders at the same time you have open and close each valve one at a time and compare your readings that way. But it does make for a very compact and effective unit. HOMEMADE CARB SYNC TOOL.pdf

i spent many months going over the bike front to back Repair .....Forks , Steering head , brakes , Changing system (New Stator ), new tires 102 70 R18 on the front ,,,Removed faring , removed rear Trunk , removed 65 lbs ,, Installed a back rest at the rear ,,I moved all the relays to under the seat ,,, I repined the center shock by 1/2 ., to raise the rear wheel and lower the bike by 1 1/2 inches ...My feet are flat on the ground ..I have 5 inches clearance about the rear wheel and 5 inches of ground clearance at 15 PSI on the rear/center shock 20 psi will increase the ground clearance to 6 inches ,,,still lots to do , I need to find a better place for coolant recovery can ,, then repaint the bikecrease the ground to 6 inches .

Hey Guys, You gents are spot on with your description of places to check on Tom's bike! Any engine that runs on fuel needs three things. Air, fuel and spark. Because he said it feels like it is straining to go past 5 grand, and did not suggest that the ignition just flat cuts out at 5G leads me to believe that it is an air/fuel related problem rather than an ignition problem. Closely inspect the air filter. Better yet, If you are running the paper one, just replace it. If you are running the K&N filter, clean it! I personally run the K&N filters on both my VR's and every time I clean the air filter, I replace the Fuel Filter as well. Set all 4 Idle Mixture Screws at 2 1/2 turns out, and "Fine Tune" them from there. The inspection of the Carb. Diaphragms Simmer mentioned is an excellent place to start! If the sliders are not damaged, the Diaphragms from Sirius are an excellent choice. If the sliders are damaged, then complete replacement assemblies are the way to go. I offer complete Plug Wire with NGK caps upgrades for $65 that would take care of that issue for years to come, If you are interested. A good Carb. Sync is also an excellent investment in time for these bikes. Once you have taken care of these "Basic" items, if you still have this issue Tom, then the list of things to check becomes a bit more "pricey". Keep us posted on your results. Earl

My part is free? I pay my medical at what I consider to be extortionist rates already. Here's the kicker, I only use it when absolutely needed. To use your analogy - why should I pay for someone to run to the ER every time they or their kids sneeze? Also, The Vaccine isn't free. I hope no one really believes that big Pharma is producing these Vaccines out of the kindness of their hearts. Our Tax dollars are paying for it and they are raking in Billions in profits. BTW Hospitals get paid f0r every COVID Patient - see my comments above. They charge my insurance company over $75,000 for my wife to have a partial hysterectomy and 1 overnight stay. They are doing this for Free. NOTHING in life is free, someone is paying for it.

There's two sides to that coin. If someone gets the jab and has complications...side effects...or possibly life changing results or even death....who pays for that? Especially if they've already had covid and have the anti bodies in their system that are statistically much more effective than the "vaccine"...

I have working on garage and shop door springs since 1974 and became a government approved repair and installer in 1986 ...I can tell you when you work with torsion springs DO NOT BE IN A HURRY ..take your time ......any easy way of finding the wire size is .....Count 20 turns of the spring , measure the distance of the 20 turns ...Then divide the 20 into the distance of the 20 turns ...There should be a number on the winding cone you can cross to the size...Or you can measure the ID of the inside of the spring with a slide caliper ..IE.. 4.85 divided by 20 = .24225 wire size often we use .243 ..Most torsion springs on a 7 foot or 8 foot high door have a 2 inch ID ...Numbers turns to wind is cable size x 3.14 will give you the distance around the pulley ..A 4 inch pulley will measure 12 inches a round ..On s 7 foot high door you will need to wind the torsion spring 7 turns ..A 8 foot high door you need to wind the the torsion spring 8 turns .... On larger or higher doors the spring calculation works on the math 3.14 time cable pulley diameter

Perfect TicToc. back to the money thing. If the girl chooses to not get vaccine, and gets bad case of covid, goes to hospital, who should pay for this? I'm tired of my premiums going up for others poor choices. I am 100% cool with this scenario with the condition, don't use our resources, doctors and beds because you are too stubborn to get a simple shot that will help. Great part is it's free, I simply don't get it. ✌️

I called around this morning and found one company who could come out today and replace the springs. Soo, the springs are replaced and the door works again. Like I said I'm getting old and lazier so I paid for the installation. One curious thing though, instead of the old 22" , 2" Id, .207 wire diameter springs, he used 32" smaller springs. There is no way I could know what springs could be substituted and how tight to wind the different springs. The door works great so I'm happy and my wife will be very happy to not have to park her car outside tonight.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/4NK-11193-00-00?ref=b26513a930b3340d399e16ee6caeef1479c21bb0 The above link is to OEM Yamaha, Gen 2 valve cover gaskets. Hopefully the ones you ordered are not chinese made. If so, they WILL leak. Ask me how I know.

I looked for over a week last time mine broke. Here in Fla I couldnt get anyone to sell me the springs. I have worked on the Todco doors on trucks when I worked @ U Haul and in some shops since. The paratroop doors on the aircraft I worked on had a similar system although it was a coil spring counter wound. Same principal. I hate to spend money on something I can do but those springs can kill you. When mine break, the door opener wont lift the door. With only one spring assist it just dont have enough. I disconnect the opener and go manual. Bad thing there is no way to lock if your going out.

Highly encourage you to leave it to the pros. I have 2 nice 24" 1/2" ss rods I'd be happy to loan ya, but I can not stress how easily things can go wrong.

Be very careful those things can hurt you quick. As for the shortage we have a $3 million fire station that’s been waiting 3 weeks to open because of no door springs.

If you do decide to change them yourself, make absolutely sure that when you start to wind the springs that: #1, the winding bars are heavy enough to do the job, #2, you place yourself on the spring side of the hub (the spring will get shorter as you wind and you don't want to be in line of the hub). If a winding bar comes out of the setup, it will be a bullet and the spring will lengthen like a shot.

Be careful, those springs are nasty. And be carful lifting your door, I have a bad shoulder from lifting a door with a bad spring. I upgraded my old wooden door for modern insulated aluminum. Wow what a difference, door is way lighter and springs are different, they are inside a tube, and very easy to replace.

Hey Guys, I personally flush my brake and clutch fluid YEARLY! The DOT3/Dot4 fluid our bikes use is rated to 500 degrees. (which is well in the range of normal braking temps.) Unfortunately, the clutch slave is located at the rear of the engine, close to the exhaust pipes and starved for fresh air. Because the fluid attracts moisture, and the reservoir is vented, water builds up at the clutch slave because it is the lowest point on that system. The heat boils the moisture, creating air bubbles, and this is why the clutch fades. When the clutch system cools off, the air bubbles are absorbed and the fluid functions again. This is not a hard service to do although it does help if you have a "helper" to work the clutch or brake lever while you work the bleeder. My children as young a 7 years old helped me bleed the fluid every spring. They also learned about regular maintenance on a vehicle at a very early age. This has served them well now that they are adults. Invite a few riding buddies over, provide the beverage of choice for the group, throw a few dogs on the grill and bleed everyone's brakes and clutches. It works every time for me! But even if you have to take it to a shop for this service, it does need to be done every year or two. The results of not doing it are damage to the clutch friction discs and clutch plates. It's cheaper in the long run to service the fluid than it is to replace the clutch! Earl