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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/06/2021 in all areas

  1. There be a hole there,,, keep cleaning!! It's not near clean enough yet.
    3 points
  2. 3 points
  3. A big part of it is the gunge that builds up in the carbs. A substance that separates from standing gas as the vaporous components of the gas slowly evaporate and mix with moisture from condensation forming a jell like substance that over time crystalizes. The B12 or similar products dissolves this gunge and it then gets flushed out as fresh gas passes through the carb. I assume but could be wrong but this gunge may be a crude form of paraffin, a real common issue with diesels and is why you often hear of summer fuel and winter fuel were big rigs are concerned. In winter this stuff can jell in a heartbeat and bung up the entire fuel system in sub freezing temperature.
    2 points
  4. And its blue Old Yammer always claimed that was the fastest color.
    2 points
  5. The 2nd pic is your culprit, that tiny hole encrusted with crap is the return orifice. Clean all that really good and you'll be in good shape.
    2 points
  6. she did and said she will be gunning for you next year at your rally.
    1 point
  7. Paraffin was the #1 cause of a truck motor top end failure for me. At the time, years ago, I was using a well known oil. It seems it had some sort of a wax base? That's the gist of the report back from lab. It accumulated in the top end, clogging up everything! So, that type of crud coming from today's gas mix, adding moisture to it, doesn't surprise me at all. I've seen old gas in a plastic fuel tank look like golden wax. For that to dissolve and cause issues...makes sense! I would have to surmise, T, that the B12 did it's thing and cleaned up the crud. By riding the scoot like you stole it... Helped as well. These motors love to run! The next time you go back into the carbs, adjust the float bowls to a lower level. (For some reason, that leans out the carbs resulting in better economy). Then, reset your pilot jets to 2.5 turns out. That should be close for the air/fuel mixture of the pilot. If you have an exhaust gas analyzer you can nail each carb perfectly. That will help as well since the pilot jet is active a good party of the running rpm. Those 2 things will up you're mpgs to the high 30s. Usually we get around 38 to 40mpgs... on average. But as I mentioned earlier, keeping the motor in the 3k to 4k rpm range when cruising helps the most. Staying out of 5th gear until 70mph is important. Example: 2 up with a headwind...I would be in 4th gear around 65 to 70mph all day long. Above 80moh, mpgs dump hard!
    1 point
  8. That’s the hole, it’s not as large as the area that is bored out. I want to say it’s the size of a high E guitar string. This thread may help you. It helped me a while back,
    1 point
  9. 3m abrasive pads or extra fine steel wool. If using steel wool make sure you rid the cylinder of all debris. Maybe follow up with brake clean and an abrasive or scotch brite pad. You don't want any steel reside left behind because steel an aluminum can chemical react to each other. you can also follow up with ultra fine crocus cloth. and brake clean.
    1 point
  10. Just for you @steamerand @RockinRobin
    1 point
  11. Hey!! I was going to say that!
    1 point
  12. @SpencerPJ its worth noting here to be Very careful removing the fill plug from the reservoir, the housing can break rather easily. You’ll notice there are nice flat spots on the reservoir neck to hold with a wrench while you remove or install the plug.
    1 point
  13. Got to ride to work the last couple of days. The ride home was in the rain both days. Now it needs a bath more than ever. Too much other stuff to do it now.
    1 point
  14. Glad to see things are coming together! Regarding mpgs, the best for economy comes when you let the motor run. IE, don't bog her down at lower rpms. Especially riding 2 up. Staying in a lower gear, running 3k to 4k rpm, will give you better mpgs than shifting up. Seriously. Experiment. Change oil regularly, change plugs yearly and let her run!
    1 point
  15. It sounds like the fluid is contaminated with water. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture. When it heats up from riding it's less effective at compressing properly so the clutch, or brakes will fade. I'd be willing to bet a fluid flush and insure it's sealed properly will take care of it.
    1 point
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