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I agree with Squidly =, If your pulling it apart you may as well get the rebuild kit #2 but before you do make sure the master cylinder bore is free of any imperfections, even the slightest imperfection can compromise the brake system. Also check the proportioning valve which attaches to the rear master and divides the brake fluid between the rear and left front caliper. They are notorious for building up crud inside and cleaning up the master as per Squids instructions could be a wasted effort if you do not address this part as well because that crud will just plug the orifice again.That's Item 20 in the picture it is the piece the two brake lines attach to and is mounted on the master.

Paul, It can be cleaned, the master cylinder is at the bottom of the page you have posted. It's where the #2 assembly, a seal rebuild kit goes into. The #4 oring that goes on to the unnumbered elbow is where you want to look at. You'll see a tiny hole inside the body of the master cylinder and that's your return orifice hole. I usually clean them with a single wire on a wire brush. I would suggest that you purchase the seal kit, #2 in the picture and rebuild it while you have it apart. If you have any questions my number is (936) 232-9299.

I haven’t done a first gen but Yamaha was stingy with the grease in the neck on my 2nd gen. My thoughts were that once I spent the time to tear it down replacing them was the way to go. New bearings with plenty of grease should outlast me.

It sounds to me like the return orifice in the rear master cylinder is clogged. It won't allow the brake fluid to return to the reservoir when it heats up and starts to expand. That will lock up a back brake fast, been there, done that, on an 86.

It seems kind of odd the way that steering shaft is set up, but this is how I did it. Loosen nut #7. Now with a long punch, screwdriver or something similar tap lower nut #4 to set the torque. Check your progress, it don't need to turn much, a 1/16 " is a good start. When you think its good, tap the upper #4 nut so that it sets back on the lower one. There is a rubber o-ring in between the 2 nuts, and I haven't figured out the real meaning of having it there, but it's there so some engineer has made his daily wage. Now torque nut #7 back to speck and test again. You might have to go through this circus a few times to get things perfect. Always torque #7 before final decision for the pressure from #7 will move the #4 nuts just enough to cause a noticeable difference. When you are happy, carefully move the handle bars from side to side, just with your finger tips and see if you can feel any jumping, vibration, or such. Slowly and lightly!! If it feels anything else than perfectly smooth, it's time for a change.

Thanks guys, I'll be back. Digging in this afternoon.

Ok, going back & forth between three different exploded views, I answered my own question: One adjustment for both bearings. late night internetting..... Next is to figure out how to repack those suckers.

That takes all the fun out of it. Plus those of us who don't have running water in our garages got save what water we have to rinse off any brake fluid we may spill on the bike.

I'm in Myrtle Beach every year for bike week and I have another ocean front room for May 2022.

My brawlin' days are long gone. Now, if confronted by someone who intends violence, I start crying and pee myself. They generally leave me alone after that.

I would suggest that you take that bike out right pronto. There is nothing worse than leaving unused gas in a tank, that would be a terrible waste of money and not near as good for the soul as getting it cleaned out good. When you do get it empty though, you had best fill it up, just so you know that in-case of a fuel shortage you will at least have one good ride to go yet. Don't think the carb cleaner had any effects on the seals or rubbers. It might clean things better as it sits, might also loosen up some dirt in the bottom of your tank.

Brake fluid will mix with water, fork oil won't do that that so easy. Use no soap.

Just don't split the housing unless your very confident. the o rings that seal the housing halves can be difficult to acquire. I do split them because it makes it easier to clean but it is very important if you do that you have the proper o-rings and reassemble them exactly.

On another note if your not sure if it is brake fluid or fork oil just smell it they smell totally different or rub a little on the back of your hand brake fluid has a weird warmish feel on the skin. were fork oil just feels like oil.

I agree with checking and cleaning the fork seals, I even carry a 35mm film in my glovebox. Also, make sure you are running a small amount of air in the forks. If I run zero air, my seals leak.

Earl has the answer but there is a commercial product available. It is called Seal Mate. Go to sealmate.net for details. Jim

https://smile.amazon.com/SealMate-Fixes-your-Leaking-Seals/dp/B00ECDLVB8/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=fork+seal+cleaner&qid=1628042791&sr=8-5 The above linked item can easily be replicated with a plastic milk jug.

That'll cost yah!!