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You really need to clean those pistons befor compressing them. I just use a piece of wood that fits and a couple c clamps.

Hey Brad I am not sure if trial members have access to member profiles.

I apply the brake fluid to the outside of the pistons after cleaning as best I can and before pushing them back in to give the pistons some lubrication so they slide in easier (only use brake fluid other lubricants can swell the rubbers). This is only if I do not intend on rebuilding the caliper and intend only on pushing the pistons back in and reinstalling calipers as they are. Applying air to the brake bleed valve is only if you want to pop the pistons right out, and replace the seals after cleaning pistons and bores. in which case at this point you would have removed the calipers completely from the bike and now have them on the work bench. generally I keep the bleed valve closed and apply the air to were the brake line was attached. place a thin piece of wood were the disc pads sit or set in an old disc pad than slowly apply air until the pistons pop out. A rag covering the caliper and air line during this process helps avoid getting brake fluid in your eyes.

My number is in my profile, give me a call if you get a chance.

I usually use a c-clamp or channel lock pliers using mild force, after first cleaning and coating with brake fluid. If they are difficult to compress than they may need to be popped out cleaned and new seals put in. keep in mind the excessive effort it takes to squeeze the pistons back in is also additional effort required to apply the brakes. As well they may not fully retract when the brakes are released causing brake drag. When rebuilding the calipers they do not recommend splitting the calipers in two. I generally do anyway though it is not necessary and the proper size and thickness o-rings that go between the halves may be hard to find.

This is the route I put together. https://www.myrouteapp.com/en/social/route/3563084?mode=share

Looking at Newman's Bakery in Bellville. ~9:00am. 504 E Main St, Bellville, TX 77418

We'd be looking at Bellville instead of Coldspring. One of he guys in the group that is going is just getting back on his bike after shoulder surgery so we are trying to keep it a little close to him. Shepherd, TX 77371 to Bellville TX - Google Maps. Not sure if that's too far for you.

Having the same issue. Great thread, will attempt this tomorrow. I am mentally exhausted today having changed the engine oil and filter. Exhausted because me and spanners are not a marriage made in heaven and I was sure I would mess it up somehow, but it would appear (no drops under the bike) that I was successful. BTW i did not remove the lower plastic around the filter housing because the allen bolts were rounded out and still managed OK. thanks again Paul

Got my rebuilt shock installed this past winter. Have put just over 2,000 miles on it since. The last 1,000 miles on a 3 day ride around Oregon pulling a Cycle Mate trailer for the first time. So far I have absolutely no complaints!! Rides smooth with or without the extra load from the trailer.

I have always used Bel-Ray fork oil

Got to put on a couple hundred klm's before our camping trip so tires are broken in and ready for longer trips.

I agree with Spencer. However if it does end up needing a starter do yourself a favour and try to acquire a 4 brush starter. It is like day and night specially when trying to crank over a hot engine.

Another of the old guard stepping away. Another one to be missed. when you next chat with the old Pucster make sure to let him know saddlebum thinks about him. I am surprised Dingy sold tweety though they seemed inseparable. He did have another project bike conversion on the go though. I wonder if he completed it.

No, you're 180 degrees out, that is the speedometer housing that the cable hooks into.