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I'd highly recommend going with Skydoc_17's clutch kit. It gets rid of the half friction disc and has a stiffer spring. It just works.

I used the spring from @skydoc_17 in both my bikes. I don’t remember if it’s an EBC or not. Works great even when I’m two up pulling a trailer. Others swear by the Barnett set but I’ve not tried it. How about that big boat on Barkley? Me n the wife put the boat in Friday and checked it out.

Puc usually pulls his disappearing act when he and Tip go visit the grandkids. I assume and hope that’s all that’s going on.

If anybody is interested, here are my notes on converting from incandescent headlights to LED. I ordered a set from LED Factory Mart. Info: 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe. So here is obviously your staring point. There is a screw on either side of the main headlight assembly. Remove the main headlight plug. Remove the rubber housing. Undo the spring bar. This will take a bit of effort. Before you remove the two long screws found a 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock you may want to take note of approximately how much of each one is screwed in. These also act as the aiming adjustments. You will still need to re-aim your light after you are complete anyways. Here is the inside of my driving lights before making any modifications. The LED 4" lights I ordered came with a very nice plug assembly but there wasn't enough room in the bucket to keep it. I had to cut it off and wire in directly. It will be a tight fit to get the 4" lights back in the bucket. When lining up the main headlight to go back in the housing note that if you line it up with this screw at the top it will not be centered. That screw is a bit off of 12 o'clock. Finished project.

Brewing an Imperial Milk Stout. First batch at the new abode. It has been far from smooth as we are still unboxing stuff and I could not find a couple key pieces of equipment. Fortunately, we are about 4 blocks from a very nice home brew supply house. Make Beer, Not War!

Chief, Looks like he is trying to tell us something by giving us tips. Like RED, 2021 and sunshine. I have no idea what these could mean. Something is going on, something big. I am not sure why Yamaha wanted the tread gone. Maybe Yamaha just isn't quite ready to release this upgrade. I just don't know what to think of all this

Check fuse, or could check voltage at pump (DVOM or test light) IF that looks good you can pull fuel line off and see if it pumps fuel with a decent amount of pressure like 5 psi I think, more than a dribble any who.

We do learn more that way. If you always think your right how will you ever know when your wrong.. Man that,s an old but effective trick we used to use years ago I have long since forgotten about. It was also a quick check for a faulty or stretched timing chain. Guess with cars going away from carbs you just don't much think about it any more. On the diesel trucks I mostly work on now good intake flow is indicated when your hat disappears into the turbo.

Just got bike back from shop today. New front & rear tires, rear brake rotor & brake pads also new steering head bearings(old bearings had 110,00klms)( rep. was shocked I hadn't replaced bearings before this). Had to replace right side exhaust as muffler broke off from Y pipe(bought used pipes from guy in Brantford Ont. $500)So when all said and done parts and labor were around $2000Can. Now have to put on bags etc. so I can ride again.

I got a new clearview with a vent a couple years ago. I really like it. Same height as the stock but wider. I also got the tinted

Keep in mind how much compression leaks off is related to how much the valve leaks. Too little to zero clearance can keep a valve from seating properly or allow for a longer open time of the valve allowing some compression to escape during the compression test. I have seen this occur on many engines with mechanical valve adjusters, were less experienced techs that work under me were ready to condemn an engine, only to discover that compression was fine once I had them reset the valves to proper clearances.

Plus learning to wrench on your own bike puts you in a better position to know what to do, should you have an issue on the road.

To put things in perspective, Chinese made brings to mind one thing: the type of material used in making the product. We know Yamaha uses a certain type of rubber for it's diaphrams. They last years! We don't know anything about Chinese products. Could be plain rubber that will deteriorate with gas contact.... Maybe even engine heat will destroy it. Not worth the risk. Especially if one comes apart and leaves teeny runner pieces in the carbs. Buy reputable and only do the job once.

Never apologize in the search for answers. Situations like yours as well as camaraderie is the reasons this site exists and those of us that are able to help are only happy to do so. As far as your fuel consumption goes two of the more common causes are stuck enrichment valves (often referred to as the choke. A common sign of this but not always the case, is that you never need to choke your bike to start it even on very cool mornings. You can try observing them for movement as you move the choke lever as they are mounted on the outside of the carbs and manipulated by levers too which the choke cable runs. Another issue is the float levels set to high which sadly is not an easy thing to check on a 1st gen and is easier done with the carbs removed and on the bench. If your valve set is so far out that you are loosing compression this could cause an incomplete or inefficient burn resulting in low power and higher fuel consumption. Also when draining the Rad there is a hex valve near the oil filter housing. marked drain. make sure it is set in the on position when draining or filling the cooling system and turn to the off position for normal operation.