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West Ky Rally at Kenlake State Park will be held May 19th through the 22nd 2022. We decided to move it up a couple weeks with regard to MD and summer weather.

It a subaru forester. Used a small amount of bike money to buy. If i want to feal the wind will have to roll down windows. I still have the boys bikes I can ride but wont take them to far. Here in about a month will have nerves in back burned. So may be able to get around better. Keep riding wish I could

Hey Guys, I am humbled by your kind words about the line sets I provide for the VR.ORG Members! Now, Frank I have the ability to make up Aircraft quality, Kevlar lined S.S. brake lines for any motorcycle. I keep the fittings for the metric bikes in stock, but can order fittings for HD, Victory, etc. that use inch fittings. I am certified by the state of Pennsylvania to construct Hydraulic lines for automotive use. (This means motorcycles as well) I do offer The De-Link Kit for the MKII and MKII First Gen. Ventures, as an upgrade, but can make up stock lines as well. Special fittings and custom lengths of the line material control the cost of each line. A package of lines would be cheaper than a single line, per line. To be honest, it cost me more than $30.00 to construct a single line for the Venture. As Saddlebum mentioned, The words "Cheap" and "Brake Line" should NEVER be in the same sentence, in my opinion. I am sure I can beat the price of your standard Gaffler line sold on Ebay, plus the lines would be constructed to your exact specs with install support after the sale. I regularly construct custom lines for extended handle bars, Caliper Swaps, and Master Cylinder Relocations. If I can help you with custom brake lines Frank, please feel free to PM me. Thanks again guys, for the kind words! Earl

My 1st thing i would do, if you haven't already is take that rear brake master cylinder off. If it hasn't been cleaned or flush in several years, it can clog up the return orifice and will indeed lock the back brake up. That brake line is right by the exhaust and the heat will cause the brake fluid to expand, and if the return orifice is clogged it will apply the back caliper. I've had this happen to me on an 86 I had. A quick way to rectify it is take an 8mm wrench and break the bleeder screw loose to relieve the pressure.

Another update to this post...I know, not on here much but still doing the starter clutches. Price has now gone to $435.00 with the gaskets included and still shipping back to you. The good ol' Pacific takes it time to get stuff over here, right now it's a 3-4 week ship time til I receive the parts from Yammamama. Direct email is the best contact danob11@comcast.net

I’ll post later with some lodging options. The state park has a lodge, cabins, and campground. There is another campground a mile away along with some fishing cabins and motels in nearby Aurora (4-5 miles). Gas and convenience store 5 miles away and town 15 minutes up the road.

Our own skydoc_17 makes custom brake line kits for the Ventures. I'd be willing to bet he'd make you up what ever you need as well. His products are top notch, high quality and his customer service is beyond excellent. On top of all that, Earl is just one hell of good guy!

Well after owning a XV1300 back in the 90's I have returned to the fold. Because in England they were few and far between and grey imports I have had to look overseas to acquire one. I have now purchased a 1991 (at least firs registered then) 1300 however because of Covid and quarantine rules I have for the first time bought only based on some pictures. Always a risk that underneath the plastic & Tupperware the frame and electrics are shot but what the hell, you only live once. I am pretty sure the carbs will need an overhaul as it has been parked up for nearly 5 years along with lots more. On my "will need doing soon" List I have besides the carbs 1. Change all fluids. 2. Replace hoses with new braided 3. New tyres depending on age 4. New Battery 5. Consider a US instrument cluster with MPH on outside scale ( this one is KPH on Outside being European but not sure how to get mileage to line up). See if I can put a few hundred miles on it and find out what rattles, doesn't work or is missing. My question to the knowledgeable members is what else would you plan on doing or think will be an issue? I know I will be fixing and working on it a lot but that is half the fun of going back to an old bike and not getting a new and bland modern bike with no soul. Oh and I cant afford a new bike! That said I am going to be a bit more than nervous waiting for the shipper to arrive and open up the truck to wheel it out sometime in July and I first get to see her in the flesh. Mike.

View from the lodge deck.

Good to know @Dano

Yeah, I tried that and about 20 Google searches... no luck.... when I can get my Road Star over to the Royal Star, I will see if the light bars are transferable.

Bubbling is not a good sign, you are boiling your battery you may want to check your fluid level. This is usually an indication that you are over charging your battery (even at two amps the charger could be putting out too much voltage for the battery). The other cause of a boiling battery is that it is just no good, possibly internally shorted out due to sediment build up in the battery ( if it is just a lead acid battery you could try dropping an aspirin in each cell, Its an old trick but it does sometimes work I once got an extra year out of a car battery with this trick).

Quick update Thanks for all the prayers guys! Im officially home and using a cane to get around. Im going to be wearing a neck/back brace till the end of august but im alive and moving so i will take it. My sweet wife took the time to carefully explain to me that im not going to be doing anything dangerous for the next little while. I can tell when shes serious cause she has a way of grabbing my nose hairs and pulling me down till we are eye to eye and explaining things in a voice that would make a drill sergeant tremble. Sweet little thing she is. Ill wait a while before my next round of shenanigans. Was starting to see what i could do with the vulcan and do you know they put the rear sparkplug directly under the frame? The only way i can see to pull it is tilting the motor forward. All the others ive seen has the plug accessible from between the Y of the frame. Should have bought a 900! Dont suppose anyone has a set of exhaust pipes that would fit a 98 vulcan 800 classic. Im told a boulevard of the same vintage would work. Otherwise ill try fortnine or summit racing and watch for a sale. Thanks again everyone

When my red fuel line caused problems, it was a direct starvation issue. I gather what was happening was at high speed or under acceleration, the carbs would run out of fuel due to the line collapsing... Hence the scoot would bog down immediately. By the way you described your problem, my first thought was spark. It's easy to understand an engine bogging down at a certain rpm/load every time when you think electrical. But replacing the tci should have cured that. Stator not putting out enough volts? Don't think that would be an rpm issue unless something in the stator case is shorting out due to centrifugal force or high heat. But can't say I've ever heard of that on a non- points system. This is interesting... For sure. Hang in there... You'll get it!

Total quote for 22.75” tall, clear, no vent, with recurve was $162.37 including shipping and a 10% discount for being a Venture Rider member. 12-16 days lead time.

Depends on what the running voltage is. If the stator is producing 13 some volts when running, then you should be ok for ignition from that point. On the other hand, you might have enough to start, but if the stator isn't producing then you will run into low voltage and then the ignition will start to fail,, but the bike won't start again either. So check the running voltage, it needs to be over 13v. Also, check your battery before you go to bed, it should be 12.6v and then check it again when you get up. No charger attached. It should not be less than 12.5v. If it reads 12.0v then the battery has problems.

Tach not working points to an electrical issue. I’d start with checking/cleaning connections at the TCI and coils. On second thought check battery connections before that.

Don't know about Rick, but a message to him through this forum would be appropriate. He did my VStar seat and did a great job! As far as seats, the normal pillow seat would be the best bet for you. All the others, push you forward...includes Mustang, Corbin, etc.. It's also quite comfortable. I'm 225 and 5'10" and can go all day on it. Your pegs could use some extensions....as you can see on my RSV, I have mine adjusted rearward. By just moving the mount 180 degrees I could gain about 4 more inches. Hope this helps....

Took Bike to Dealer they said I Had gasket between oil and anti freeze plus valve cover leak had them fix not cheap but I am not mechanic got bike back runs like new . Sorry I didnt get back sooner but had computor problems. Thanks to all for responding and helping me. Bushwacker

Yep, put the washer in the wrong spot on the rear axle and what happens is that throws the caliper off and then you could have the issue of the piston not wanting to return easily, heat up and cause a rel drag. The other common issue is a plugged hole in the rear master cylinder which restricts the return of brake fluid after release and then cause heat build up on the caliper and pads and then lockup. It's a wee tiny little hole in the master that might be blocked.

the rear brake is were I would start as well specially since it only locks when you pull the clutch in but will turn when you release the clutch and apply power. Generally if it locks up due to a drive line or transmission failure it stays locked up and whether the clutch is in or out would not make a difference.

I'm no expert on these bikes but I think I would start on the rear by making sure the brake isn't sticking, not likely I'm thinking, and then pull the rear wheel and inspect.

The JIS japanese version of the philips screwdriver made by Vessel and available through Amazon is the best screw driver I found for the screws on these bikes the flute tapers and angles between the japanese (JIS) screws and the philips differ slightly and is why a normal philips screwvdriver will cam out so easily. The (JIS) even works better on the philips screws than the philps screw driver does. Thier grey handled impacta line is great for breaking loose tight screws without rounding them out. FROM AMAZON CANADA. https://www.amazon.ca/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=vessel+jis+screwdriver&qid=1624197256&sr=8-8 https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&ref=nb_sb_noss ------------------------------------------------------ FROM AMAZON USA. https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197497&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-Impacta-P2x100-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197633&sr=8-16

That did it! I did hear something from the bolt but it didn't sound like a banjo tune. I swear I held my tongue the right way. thanks everyone