Leaderboard

I have successfully used this simple method of checking for loose spokes on my motorcycles, bicycles for years and now finding myself doing the same on my E-bikes. This little trick came in VERY useful when racing Motocross, Enduros and Harescrambles on dirtbikes where the rear hub/spoke connection took major abuse but I also used it in my shop when swapping on different wheels on my Chopper builds. A simple slow spin (or not even spin at all, just go around and "tonk" on each spoke with a screw driver or other tool that could be used to make them "sing" worked fine too). Give it a try and see what you think and let me know in the comments below.. Puc

No, you need iPhones and have them as shared info with 'Find my Friends' Be careful what you wish for though, I have 2 daughters in their twenties that live in different states, like an idiot I look at times what they are up to.... Compounds the worrying just sayin. 😨

HHHMMMMM I have daughters, maybe I need these for date nights. 😁😁😁

@circa1968 I know it’s not everybody, and everyone is entitled to their form of entertainment. Trust me I give as much room as possible, clipping a cyclist isn’t on my bucket list. As motorcyclist we know the vulnerabilities. For years I’ve gone to the corestates race in Philly and now the Tour of Utah passes directly by my house, and we stand on the corner ringing cowbells cheering the riders on. My street is shut down anyway so may as well enjoy it.

The only question on the 2000 lbs, is that the rating for each or for the "SET" of 4. Only make the recess just deep enough. You want to leave as much wood as possible. You will want to use bolts and nuts to attach them. I would make a steel plate bigger than the recess hole to put on the bottom side with bolts going thru. Based on the dimensions they give, your recess hole will be about 4 inch Dia and a bit OVER 1 Inch deep. That does not leave much wood if the floor is 2x6 or even 2 x 8. Also make sure that the wood is very well attached to the trailer so that the bike and a piece of wood do not go flying if you have to stop or swerve fast, you know some jerk will cut you off or run a stop at some point. The flatbed I had was 2 x 12 planks that were just under a small lip at the front and back, any load attached to the floor was realistically only held down by the 1 x 1 x 1/8 angle tack welded to the front and back of the trailer and the weight of the board the load was attached to.It was more like the boards were to be held down by the load. Here is one that is stamped on the ring as 2000 lb and comes with a backing plate and carriage bolts so that the bolt heads are not as much of a trip hazard. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Recessed-D-Ring-TieDown-Anchors-Mounting-Lock-Plates-Bolting-Accessories-/264816546110?vxp=mtr&hash=item3da84bd13e

Nancy made mine. Excellent!

Not offended, but please don't judge all riders by the actions of a few. You are correct that under normal circumstances, cyclists should not be riding 3-4 abreast. Its common sense, common courtesy and unsafe. I ride a road bike on 2-lane blacktops with my buddies and we ride single file, as close to the edge as possible. The single most terrifying thing is someone in a car hellbent on being a jerk coming up from behind at 60+ MPH. Cycling out in the country on two lane roads is a very healthy and enjoyable activity. I can't speak to shutting down roads for races, as I'm not a racer, but I assume the race sponsors must pay a pretty penny to the local municipalities for that, or perhaps they are counting on some other financial benefit to the local economy & coffers from hosting a race (short-term increase in hotel taxes, sales taxes, busier restaurants, promoting tourism, etc.). I'm pretty sure there is no general tax exemption for cyclists....I know I've paid more than my fair share. However, I'm quite sure there are a large # of car drivers on the road who pay little, to no, taxes though... I will leave you with this thought to contemplate next time you encounter a cyclist on the road: My heart is pounding at 150+bpm, my legs are screaming, my lungs are burning and its all worth it to me if it keeps me healthy enough to live just one more day with my family on God's beautiful green earth... please pass with care. Thank you.

In memory and sincere gratitude for those who shed their blood and paid the ultimate price so we could live in freedom = THANK YOU!!! Puc

LOL @Condor,,, sooooo perfectly stated!!! Look at this HONKER that I pulled out when I fixed the tube!!

What......There is a counter on it too

Went with the 7 x 14 aluminum, with the wood floor. Decided to go with the wood floor 'cause the trailer I have now is 17 years old with original wood that's still in good shape and I sometimes get creative when trailering oddball stuff and end up building off of the floor, which means driving screws into it. I think the wood is a lot more forgiving of such mistreatment. Anyhoo, went and picked it up today. Thanks everyone for your input.....Always valued and sometimes even wise. 😃

Boy this hurts my feelings reading about trailering Ventures😩😩😩, these conversations are usually over on that other bike forum. That being said I’m either gonna have to trailer mine or cage it to Vogel if I get to go, gotta haul my daughter’s stuff to Bama that weekend for school. At least we won’t have to worry about slipping in the oil on the trailer floor like those others 🤣

That’s the kind of thing people get shot over.

Back in the old days before my heart gave out, cancer kicked my butt and I was young/agile enough to actually spend hours on the road out CTFW I did a TON of snowmobile business during the "off season" for bikes. I bought/sold numerous sled trailers of which about 75% were aluminum. Personally,, and this is just another IMHO's Unc, if you can afford the upfront charges of going aluminum I would implore you to do so. The anti rust side of Aluminum far outweighs the loss of the ease of welding on/fixing steel trailers all though, a good Mig welder with steel makes them amazing for creating all kinds of fun things with steel. I am not sure what is out there as far as aluminum utility trailers and fastening points but most of the sled trailers I dealt with had flip up tie down spots as well as cross bars for hooking skis to. I would imagine that any good aluminum utility trailer would have something similar. I also like the 6' 4" wide thought brother. You will find the additional width to be absolutely superlative IMHO.. As far as slippery goes, yes - that is a concern.. On our sled trailers it was fairly common to use old snowmobile tracks attached to the floor to stand on and to run the sleds up on = very durable and carbide stud friendly if the machines had studs in the tracks. I am sure something like that, even a spray on bed liner, would be easily doable... Yep, I would go with Aluminum 100%... Puc

Wifey wants to know if it works on husbands

Marcel, when rechecking those slide diaphrams pay special attention to the area where the diaphram contacts the carb body. A seperation there, under the lip that sets into the groove on the carb body has fooled many carb repair guys. Also make sure the o-ring under the diaphram cover is not missing when putting back together. Please remember I am coming from experience with the MK1 V-4's, your bike may differ but, concerning the question about the cruise control removal causing this. Assuming your cruise is vacuum controlled as is the spark advance, I wonder if when removing the cruise components, the vacuum source for the spark advance got closed off or overlooked.. Possibly your bike is running without control of the ignition advance... Just a thought.. Puc