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Before putting a new one on check to see if you have any oil leaks. If you do than replace it with an HD badge

Just for some insight I ran into a similar issue with a transport truck. The customer had a new clutch installed Picked up his truck from the shop were he had it done and all was fine. Next morning when it was cold his clutch would not disengage until the truck was well warmed up. Since he was already falling behind on his time sensitive load he continued to run until he got to our shop after delivering his load. When I pulled his clutch out I found the shop that installed the new clutch assembly and flywheel failed to wash of the thick waxy grease like coating that coated the metal parts to protect them from rust while in storage. After its first heating up this gunk became almost glue like each time it cooled down but would soften when the clutch assembly warmed up. So if you remove the clutch pack I would suggest thoroughly cleaning all the disks with brake clean and then after a good cleaning, soak the friction discs (preferably over night though an hour should suffice) in good engine oil before re-installing them.

Just get a quality built trailer. Aluminum doesn’t act anything like steel after being welded, it usually fails with a crack or breakage instead of bending.

As far as tie-downs, I would bolt steel D rings through the cross frame braces and not give another thought to it.

In a moment of weakness 27 years ago today I exchanged rings and ate a cake so I got the bike out and we got in around 100 miles to celebrate today.

That was cold blooded Ben! but it was funny 😄

The members I've met know that when Lisa and I attend events or rallies, we usually drive the motor home and trailer the bike. I'm thinking about getting an aluminum trailer, (open) and going a bit larger to carry two bikes in case I want to bring friends along. I can get a 6'4" x 12' for neighborhood of $3000. Comparable traditional steel trailer sells for neighborhood of $1700. The aluminum is attractive because I can move it around a lot easier, whereas to shuttle the steel trailer around typically requires that I hook it up to my 4 wheeler. I'm leaning towards aluminum, but am wondering how durable they are, and if an aluminum deck would be slippery. I also wonder if I can build bulletproof tie down points on an aluminum trailer. Thoughts??? Opinions???

That’s it, rant over.

Hey Jason, Congrats on finding your clutch issue! This has been some journey. When you are ready to replace your clutch, just send me a PM and I will get you all the parts you will need to make that clutch system like new. Good luck with that repair, and like the Puckster, you seem to have a flair for bringing your repair story to life for the members of this forum. For years to come Jason, future members of the forum will turn to this thread and glean the knowledge that you have shared with us all. Thank you for that sharing of wisdom. Earl

A MAJOR congrats to both you and your bride Corporal Newkirk!! THAT is AWESOME!! Puc n Tip

Back in the old days before my heart gave out, cancer kicked my butt and I was young/agile enough to actually spend hours on the road out CTFW I did a TON of snowmobile business during the "off season" for bikes. I bought/sold numerous sled trailers of which about 75% were aluminum. Personally,, and this is just another IMHO's Unc, if you can afford the upfront charges of going aluminum I would implore you to do so. The anti rust side of Aluminum far outweighs the loss of the ease of welding on/fixing steel trailers all though, a good Mig welder with steel makes them amazing for creating all kinds of fun things with steel. I am not sure what is out there as far as aluminum utility trailers and fastening points but most of the sled trailers I dealt with had flip up tie down spots as well as cross bars for hooking skis to. I would imagine that any good aluminum utility trailer would have something similar. I also like the 6' 4" wide thought brother. You will find the additional width to be absolutely superlative IMHO.. As far as slippery goes, yes - that is a concern.. On our sled trailers it was fairly common to use old snowmobile tracks attached to the floor to stand on and to run the sleds up on = very durable and carbide stud friendly if the machines had studs in the tracks. I am sure something like that, even a spray on bed liner, would be easily doable... Yep, I would go with Aluminum 100%... Puc

Was that 26 cold with weight on the seat? As you compress the shock it seems to me pressures have to increase.

Did another ride with the phone mounted on the handlebars and the FOBO app open. Had reset the rear shock to 26# cold. After just a few miles, the rear shock pressure started to rise. It settled out at 36# to 37#. Would occasionally hit the low forties.

Not that anyone doubted it but you're a genius, @cowpuc! Case removed and before I got into the clutch I inspected the end plate on the shaft cam & found a bent arm and missing pin. Clutch and basket pulled. There appear to be at least 2 other teeth that are bent and on their way out the door. I can't find the missing pin but is this necessary? Should I drain the oil now and try to track it down or is it safe from affecting anything? To repair pin/plate failure I assume I need to remove the circlip and then the shift lever assembly covering the central starbolt, remove the bolt then the plate & pins (I can check the manual). Are there any caveats to taking these out or putting them back in? I've read where many substitute the plate for one from later models that eliminates the bent tabs but would you guys just replace with the OEM (part #26H-18561-01-00) or "upgrade" to a later model? If the latter, any specific model year recommendations for a drop-in swap? At this point, the bare minimum parts I need are the missing pin, the plate and the gasket. I will also replace the pressure plate springs as recommended. This summer I'm trying to keep all costs to a minimum but I'd like to replace the the entire clutch assembly from @skydoc_17 this winter (how do I order this from him?). I inspected the teeth on the clutch basket and while there are marks, there's no apparent wear of the metal. If I replace the entire clutch this winter, what other items should I be hypercritical of and inspect while it's open? All the gears do not appear to be excessively worn & no missing teeth. No obvious missing springs or broken parts but of course when you consider the source...!

Thanks Dion. I already have the power bypass harness. But don't think that handles the tci stuff. I thought that just sends the un-necessay current to a relay to by pass ignition switch. I'll be working on bike tomorrow morning. I'm hoping it's just a dirty switch contact. David

Just a update. Ive been going through physo and can walk with the aid of a walker. Still numb from chest down but its good to be able to move on my own. Going to be wearing a full brace for another three months still but should be home by the end of june! Thanks for all the support guys!

It was totally the idea that they ate "doggie treats" that got them. My daughters put hazelnut spread on them and mowed through them like candy!

LOL,, wouldnt it be great if life was so simple lol... Might keep in mind too that some oils are darker when new than others too.. Also that those sit2e windows do stain up fairly easily.. I have used Walmart supertech and Dollar Store non-energy cons Dino oils for hundreds of thousands of miles and done so successfully.. Possible one of the reasons why is I change my oils when the oil darkens or tranny gets sticky.. The stickiness though is not an issue like you are experiencing though,, its more of an issue of going from buttery smooth to a little stiffer on the toe.. Both of those oils I have used are dark in nature when brand new but, like all oils, are easily to see they are dirty dark when dark if one knows what they looked like when installed.. Another place I suppose its possible that you are picking up dirty oil from may be a really badly burned stator that has not failed yet.. I only mention that because these MK1's also came OEM with pretty nasty stator engineering.. If your bike has not had the stator updated in it since new and you get this tranny sorted out, the next thing will be the stator replacement LOL.. And then plastic water pump replacement,, and then Progressive Fork Springs,, and then lubing the splines and drive pins, and then CTFW for miles and miles and miles and miles and miles and miles and so on and so forth

Several things come to mind, I would mic up the clutch plates, check the basket for any sign of saw toothing, check the pressure plate springs for spec.. Then, if the shift drum mechanism inspection and correction proves out to be the cause of your tranny issues I would rebuild the clutch entirely if it appears OEM.. These 1st Gens came from Yamaha at right on the edge of being adequate right from the factory.. If it were mine I would at a minimum have updated pressure plate springs in her before I put the cover back on the clutch and buttoned her up.. Another point to ponder in all this,,, remember that these bikes are oil bath clutch systems.. When trying to start up cold and in gear with the clutch pulled in, the oil between the clutch plates is still thick and will cause some clutch drag resistance on the starter as it trys to move the bike forward by transfering power to the rear wheel. Doing a start up in gear with the clutch pulled in while the bike is hot is one thing,, trying that same procedure on a cold motor with thick oil is a whole nuther matter... Look forward to those pics!! Puc Oh,, almost forgot,,, dont just look at pins,, check ALL the components associated with the shift drum rotation mechanism while there.. I have actually discovered a loose screw on the mount plate or a broken spring on a cam follower to produce the same issues you are experiencing.. Look er over real good!

No, @cowpuc I didn't. I pulled the drain plug & the oil filter and replaced. While I can see the bubble in the sight window, I definitely can't see through the oil. Can't be more than 20 miles since the change. I double checked & it was Rotella T4 15w-40. Honestly I was hoping someone would tell me "THAT'S IT! YOU USED THE WRONG OIL!" And all my woes would be over....

Darn right,, she is a beauty!! Definitely worth digging into, sorting it out and sucking all the life left in her out J!! I see some awesome miles of fun sitting right there. From what I can see of the brake rotors, grip wear (I LOVE those original grips!!) and foot peg wear she sure looks like a gorgeous low mile bike to me... Worth fighting for for sure!! Thanks for the vid!!

The reason I was asking is some oil's do not play well with these bikes. I think I used Rotella T6 in my 2nd gen. it was just a thought

Wifey wants to know if it works on husbands

You sure you didn't mean to say left lane is for passing. Last time I was in Germany I was told by my wife's uncle that on the Autobahn in Germany and Holland If a cop sees a vehicle has to pass you on the right your the one who gets the 600 euro ticket. Same hold s true if you stay put in the left most lane and refuse to move over for faster moving vehicles, it is required that you move right and get out of the way of the faster vehicle approaching from behind

In KY our road signs say “keep right except to pass” and we mean it. Drive in the left lane here and your rear view mirror will be full of a redneck running up your tailpipe.

Thanks for the info guys, I have a bit of thinking to do. The reason I really want the 777 HD is because I will be running on the heavy side. Me and my wife on the bike plus a sidecar with our 80lb dog. I do like the idea of dark siding with a run flat especially since I won't be leaning the bike with the sidecar attached.

Even if the other car is speeding, if they can pass you on the right(on a 4 lane highway) you are in the wrong lane. I suppose the laws may be different from state to state, but most places the left lane is for passing only.

AAARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHH. My biggest pet peeve driving.

I wouldn't argue with the mileage.

Quick update. Went out to try and take video of the bike starting and running. Wouldn't start until I remembered it was in or in between gears so pulled clutch while starting. Starter engaged and lunged forward a bit despite full pull of clutch. Turned off and tried again but same result. Gear indicator showed 4th (as opposed to blank last night). Let it sit & tried again with no lurch. Remarkably was able to keep clutch pulled and shifted into neutral. Wouldn't go into first until I shut her off & did the "Puk Rock" and dropped into first after running back up through the gears. I think I'm going to pull the clutch tonight or tomorrow. Welcome any words of wisdom & insight! Here's a video walk-around for anyone wanting to offer their $0.02 on the validity of ~65k miles.

I love the fact that in 3 months I haven't had to lay on the garage floor even once to check my rear tire pressure. Worth the cost just for that! Glad it is working out for you. I love mine. VentureFar...

Regarding the dark oil...I read a recommendation here to add Seafoam into the crankcase, shortly before an oil change, to help break up any sludge. I now do that on my Venture and also on my other vehicles. I have a '98 F150 that mostly sits, sometimes weeks+ at a time. When I first added Seafoam about 50 miles before an oil change, I was shocked what kinda gunk was coming out when I drained the oil. Seems that the seafoam did loosen some stuff up in there. Also, when I change oil on the venture, I let it drain for at least 30 mins, put the plug back in then hop on the bike and lean it side to side as well as apply the front brake & rock back/forth, put it back on the side stand, pull the plug and presto: more oil comes out. I will do this several times over the next 30 minutes. Once I put fresh oil in, it actually looks like fresh clean oil in the little window. You are definitely adding value here for guys like me who are learning as we go and trust me, this group will give you support no matter what your level of knowledge or skill. They pushed, prodded, encouraged and taught me and now my bike runs like a champ! Forever grateful.

Just so you know,,,,,,,,this forum doesn't exist because it makes money, it is only here for us to help each other. If we fail in that then the forum is will soon become useless. That being said, the spinoff is that many of us became/become friends and so would drastically miss this forum, so in that way you are helping out a great deal more than you think.

As the issues seem so sporadic and I can definitely feel and hear a difference in the amount of gear movement when trying or occasionally successfully switching gears, I'm leaning towards your assessment, @cowpuc. A gasket is the least of my concerns at this point and while I wish I could see the pins without pulling the clutch, after watching a number of videos it seems relatively straightforward (with some "tricky" parts mixed in). Since she's dead in the water now, I'm inclined to pull the clutch after scouring the forums for guidance. I will take some pics tonight & upload if my count's high enough. Had a neighbor who's ridden all his life (hardcore Harley rider) say I got a steal but since this is y'alls cup o' tea, I'd be thrilled to get a more balanced perspective. I have the same mentality when it comes to paying someone else to do work I can do myself. I can guarantee it'll take me longer and I'll likely work twice as hard to reach the same end but it's all about the journey and the pride in doing it yourself. If this problem doesn't require splitting the cases or end up with another major issue I have no intentions of selling her off. I'm thrilled to hear affirmation that it's "ok" to short shift 2nd and the transmission work may not be a necessity. "Nickel and diming" me to death is different with a motorcycle. Cheaper and not 100% dependent on its functionality so I'm definitely willing put in the time and effort as long as I don't wear out my welcome on your forum asking too many questions (without offering anything in return!)!!!

Good job @dragonstorm keep going! IMG_1588.MOV

Black Bart here: I just joined the group. Last Friday I had a Valkyrie in my sights 1997 17000 miles $2500 dollars. Mint condition. Guy sold it out from under me as I drove 1000 miles to pick it up. Out of character I told him how I felt. Then on my way home I stopped in Outdoor Sports in Prescott Valley Az. Sitting there was a 1996 Royal Star Tour Deluxe with every possible addition you can Imagine. The way she sat there leaning to one side almost expecting me. I could tell she was playing hard to get. Flawless, paint, chrome, glass, seats. For an old gal she was a looker with only 18700 miles on her. I bought her on the spot. $4900. The dealership gave me a new helmet and told me that a new set of tires was due to be installed only its second set. Great, new tires free, free is good. I sent my wife on without me. I wanted to be alone...well almost. And I waited for the new tires to be installed. I stayed away while she was in the doctors office. For an hour I tried to convince myself that I had made the right decision. But I just didn't feel that this small engine by cruiser standards was going to cut it. I really had my heart set on the 1500cc 100hp Valkyrie at $2500. There I stood looking at this bike I knew nothing about deciding whether or not to get on as she sat there idling so quietly I could barely hear the exhaust. Hmmm I've always liked the quiet ones. As I sat on this beautiful bike I realized how massive it really is. We had a 175 miles to get to know one another. I stopped four times, I dont know why I guess to see if there was a different perspective or to validate my choice to dump Valkyrie for Star like a one night stand. Sooo My name is Gene and I guess you all might help me validate my choice.

Fort nine or summit racing has crash bars Btw wasnt there a 5 dollar fee for actually admitting to dropping a venture? Assuming theres pics to back up the story

OK, Here's the "Scoop" on the VMAX Final Drive Swap. When you install a VMAX or FJR1300 final drive in your bike it RAISES the RPMs 550 to 600. (example: stock final drive, 65MPH, 3600 RPMs. VMAX final drive, 65MPH, 4200 RPMs.) This swap increases the "pulling power" of your bike and makes it quicker off the line. The downside is you loose a few miles per gallon. On a First Gen. the final drives are a strait swap except you need to shim the final drive to keep the axle and final drive shaft perpendicular. (see attached pic) ON A SECOND GEN. you have a problem because the speedo is driven off of the final drive and the hole for the speedo sensor IS NOT in the VMAX final drive housing. What this means to a Second Gen. owner is you would need to remove the stock ring and pinion gear from the final drive housing, and replace it with the ring and pinion gear from the VMAX. The install of a ring and pinion gear is not a "plug and play" install. You would need a good dial indicator to check ring gear run out and the gear "lash" must be measured and "set". You would also need a fixture to hold the final drive while you measure and make these adjustments. This is not a job for a shade tree mechanic. You will have a fair amount of money into the new VMAX ring and pinion gear and if set up incorrectly, you will have lost you investment in the new VMAX ring and pinion gear and maybe even ruin your final drive housing. Freebird and a few other Second Gen. members have purchased final drives already set up with excellent results. I do not remember the name of the company but I'm sure one of the Second gen. owners will chime in. You basically give them your stock final drive and they give you a final drive with the ring and pinion gear installed. I think the price is $300.00 for the unit, plus double shipping. (your final drive to them, the new final drive back to you.) In my opinion, this is one of the best upgrades you can do for your Second Gen. because 5th gear is so over driven. I have VMAX final drives available for First Gens. with the shim and can either install them at my "little shop by the creek" or can send you the entire unit with the shim, ready to install. If you have removed a rear rim to have a tire installed, you have done 75% of the work it takes to install a new final drive. If you have other questions about a final drive swap or are interested in a VMAX final drive for your First Gen., please feel free to PM me. Earl