Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/27/2021 in all areas

  1. I finally got the chance to bleed my brakes and clutch last week on the SVTC. It is an β€˜18, so it was time to replace the brake fluid. It took me more time trying to figure out how to remove the right front cowling (I think that is what it called) than actually bleed and replace the fluid. Everything went smooth as expected. My brake fluid is good for another 2 years. πŸ˜€ I got a few pics I took during my ordeal
    4 points
  2. Firstly You need to be a seriously nasty and/or have an extremely bad attitude here to wear out your welcome. Secondly You cannot ask too many questions its not possible. This site thrives on sharing. Even those of us that know our way around these bikes fairly well and can solve most issues, still find ourselves learning new things and are always intrigued when a new puzzle presents itself because in the process of trying to solve the issue we are inadvertently adding to our own knowledge base so we can be even more helpful down the road. So carry on and don't be afraid to share the challenge.
    3 points
  3. Just so you know,,,,,,,,this forum doesn't exist because it makes money, it is only here for us to help each other. If we fail in that then the forum is will soon become useless. That being said, the spinoff is that many of us became/become friends and so would drastically miss this forum, so in that way you are helping out a great deal more than you think.
    3 points
  4. Something else to look at: the shaft going from the shifter to the shifting shaft that goes through the engine should be straight, it might be bent fro somebody trying to force a shift.
    3 points
  5. Does it feel like the clutch isn’t releasing enough to shift or more of a mechanical issue? You can bleed the clutch master cylinder at the banjo bolt on the cylinder, air can get stuck there and not bleed out the slave bleeder. Second, look in the bottom of the reservoir and find the tiny hole in it and make sure it’s not clogged.
    3 points
  6. Hello Venturerider.org community, I have used this site for my decision to put a down payment on a 2007 Venture Midnight. I didn't get to test drive it today as the dealership stated that the front disk has a warp in it and they want to fix it first as well as do a total maintenance on the bike as they just got it in. It has just under 25k miles and has some nice aftermarket upgrades. I have been riding motorcycles for 9 years, I know small time compared to some but I have owned previous a vstar 650 and 1100 as well as ninja 300. I miss the cruiser life and need to get back to riding. Im excited as this site has giving me a lot of valuable information and if all goes well I hope to use this site and owners group for info on the bike. I unfortunately only use mobile phone no computer so hopefully I can fully use this site. Only rookie question I have for this group so far is that I never had a true touring bike, especially a V4, I do remember my 650 being a little cold blooded and finicky at start ups, I only use non ethonal gas and I use seafoam in all small engines, does the v4 run happier or have the same stubbornness. I do plan on doing most work myself however never touched carbs, I do periodic maintenance myself like lube shaft drive and fluid changes just not engine inclined. I do plan running a battery tender always at night for max CCA especially in the fall. I do live in WI. Appreciate this community and hope to have long road and journey ahead of me. And sorry for the long post. I will certainly post pictures as I take them and do things. If I missed any forum etiquette please let me know and I will follow up. Thanks again
    2 points
  7. Today while on vacation in southern Utah I spotted my first Gen 1. It made me excited to see another still ruling the roads. Doesn’t look like any members located in that area but it was a lighter blue color around 4:30-5 pm. Next time down there when it’s just the wife and I we’ll definitely be bringing the bike along.
    2 points
  8. Definitely was not Tweeks, Tip and I but just gotta say,,,, WOWZY WOW WOW WOW do I miss riding/dropping tent and general chasing the front wheel in Utah!!! New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, North and South Dakota too... Hot dog brother,, you sure got this beat up ol varmints mind wandering now.... LOL
    2 points
  9. Thx for the thorough write-up, Puc. I'll admit it saved me some time searching the forums on "how to bleed a banjo bolt"! I will do the bleed & the rocking test. I'll have to do a little research on the clutch basket and once my posts meet the quota I can post some pics for y'alls inspection! Thx again, gentlemen. You've renewed my hopes in keeping the ole' girl!!!
    2 points
  10. Apologize for longevity but will share history of current situation. Picked up a ’83 Venture 2 weeks ago with 56k on the odometer (seller said likely closer to 65k) for a more than reasonable price (IMHO). Told it needed brake work, speedometer cable replaced and had the dreaded 2nd gear issues. Tires with β€œa year left” and had all the plastics (multiple tabs broken but grossly intact) as well as intact saddlebags and trunk (typical cracks). No apparent frame damage/internal rust (lifts up on center stand). Guy had been driving intermittently to & from work 80 miles each way for nearly 10 years. Said he was only getting rid of it because he didn’t want to dump money into it and admitted just turning a wrench was nearly out of his comfort zone. While it was more bike than I needed the price was right and couldn’t pass it up. I’ll preface by saying I can turn a wrench but I’m far from a mechanic! My knowledge is what I have garnered on vehicle repairs over the years by watching videos or surfing the forums. Even less knowledge of motorcycles. Here’s what I’ve done in the 2 weeks: -engine cleaning -replaced the speedometer cable -fixed the speedometer (bound up spring) -repaired multiple tabs on the plastics (next is the upper front fairing tabs) -new filter and oil -radiator drain & fill (didn’t clean d/t potential risks) -replaced clutch fluid & purged -replaced front & rear brake fluid & purged -disassembled left front caliper & cleaned (needs rebuild & possible piston but brakes now working) -1/2 can Seafoam to 2 gallons then additional Β½ to 5 gallons Needless to say, minimal investment & most members on this forum are more than capable of all the above while half asleep! I started driving to work last week and other than having trouble getting into first at stops (user error due to not shifting into first while rolling?), and some bogging down around 3k rpms (shortly after the Seafoam but better now) everything seemed β€œOK” for a 38 year old bike. Rode to work yesterday (~3miles) and while pulling up (and rolling) couldn’t get it into first. At lunch started it up and dropped right in. Left after work (sitting in sun) and 2 blocks away I couldn’t get into first again (while rolling), however it wouldn’t shift up or down either. Drove home in 3rd and parked it for a few hours. After scouring the forums and retracing my steps I was concerned about overfilling engine oil. Although I only added 3.5 quarts and saw the very bottom of the bubble in the sight glass I siphoned off about a quarter of a quart of oil that remarkably was dark (indicative of other issues?). After sitting for about 20 minutes, started it up & was able to shift into second and neutral but still no first. I’ve not been β€œaggressive” in attempting to up- or downshift. Interestingly (and maybe indicative of other issues as well) when I was in second previously I would get a grind immediately when releasing the clutch & wouldn’t drop into gear. Now it pulls forward in both second and third. When releasing the clutch there’s now a faint β€œbuzz” on the left side above the shifter I didn’t notice before when the clutch was out and in neutral. Again, retracing my steps I purged the clutch line (no bubbles) and also attempted a gravity purge last night for good measure. Unfortunately no overnight miracle cures and still won’t shift into first. Clutch pull feels firm as would be expected (no sponginess). Disgusted but still willing to see it through I called the only motorcycle shop in town today. While he said they would β€œconsider” working on a bike that old in the off-season, he wasn’t willing to get into it now. Asked if he knew anyone (even a shade-tree mechanic) that he would recommend. Referred me to a shop an hour south with the same reply except he wasn’t even willing to get into it in the off season. Both guys when asked their thoughts said, β€œget rid of it”. I’m sure you know where this is going…. I am wide open to advice and recommendations. I truly believe at its heart it’s a solid bike. I’m aware there are numerous things that CAN and WILL go wrong with it but I don’t think anything will be as expensive or labor intensive as a transmission job (correct me if I’m wrong). My biggest fear is that if I cowboy up and try to undertake it myself (unlikely & probably ill-advised) in doing so I create not only more work but more expense fixing or replacing everything I damage in the process (not to mention I will likely need to purchase a number of tools to complete). The irony is that (God bless her heart) my wife says she wants me to fix it and enjoy the bike β€œeven if it costs another $1k”. One of the shop guys said β€œI think you probably know what you should do but need someone to confirm it for you”. Unfortunately that can’t be further from the truth. I just don’t know what to do. Here’re my considerations: 1. Sell the bike as is. I refuse to pull the wool over someone’s eyes so whether I’m going to take a hit on it or not would remain to be seen. Most bikes around here in much worse shape or age or mileage have gone for a lot more than I gave. 2. Part it out. With less than 65k on the bike there’s a bunch of good stuff to be had. This is probably my least favorite option even if it garnered me the most money because I think she’s got so many miles left in her. 3. Park it until fall/winter and HOPE I can find a shop willing to take on the transmission work on AND not get screwed in the process. 4. ATTEMPT to complete the project myself. I’m not one who likes open-ended projects and it will likely become all-encompassing. As a husband and father of six I don’t want it to become my god at the detriment of my family. 5. Outsource the job to someone else with more knowledge and skill than myself & hope once again I don’t take it in the caboose (financially or otherwise). 6. Wait to hear what wisdom and insight you all have to offer…. Thanks in advance to everyone who’s had the patience to read the above and more importantly willing to offer their perspective on my dilemma!
    1 point
  11. Regarding the dark oil...I read a recommendation here to add Seafoam into the crankcase, shortly before an oil change, to help break up any sludge. I now do that on my Venture and also on my other vehicles. I have a '98 F150 that mostly sits, sometimes weeks+ at a time. When I first added Seafoam about 50 miles before an oil change, I was shocked what kinda gunk was coming out when I drained the oil. Seems that the seafoam did loosen some stuff up in there. Also, when I change oil on the venture, I let it drain for at least 30 mins, put the plug back in then hop on the bike and lean it side to side as well as apply the front brake & rock back/forth, put it back on the side stand, pull the plug and presto: more oil comes out. I will do this several times over the next 30 minutes. Once I put fresh oil in, it actually looks like fresh clean oil in the little window. You are definitely adding value here for guys like me who are learning as we go and trust me, this group will give you support no matter what your level of knowledge or skill. They pushed, prodded, encouraged and taught me and now my bike runs like a champ! Forever grateful.
    1 point
  12. As the issues seem so sporadic and I can definitely feel and hear a difference in the amount of gear movement when trying or occasionally successfully switching gears, I'm leaning towards your assessment, @cowpuc. A gasket is the least of my concerns at this point and while I wish I could see the pins without pulling the clutch, after watching a number of videos it seems relatively straightforward (with some "tricky" parts mixed in). Since she's dead in the water now, I'm inclined to pull the clutch after scouring the forums for guidance. I will take some pics tonight & upload if my count's high enough. Had a neighbor who's ridden all his life (hardcore Harley rider) say I got a steal but since this is y'alls cup o' tea, I'd be thrilled to get a more balanced perspective. I have the same mentality when it comes to paying someone else to do work I can do myself. I can guarantee it'll take me longer and I'll likely work twice as hard to reach the same end but it's all about the journey and the pride in doing it yourself. If this problem doesn't require splitting the cases or end up with another major issue I have no intentions of selling her off. I'm thrilled to hear affirmation that it's "ok" to short shift 2nd and the transmission work may not be a necessity. "Nickel and diming" me to death is different with a motorcycle. Cheaper and not 100% dependent on its functionality so I'm definitely willing put in the time and effort as long as I don't wear out my welcome on your forum asking too many questions (without offering anything in return!)!!!
    1 point
  13. As far as I know they don't make a HD for the front. You'll be fine with the std. on the front and HD on the rear. I really like the 777s.
    1 point
  14. I run Shinko 230 Tourmaster on mine. Super economical, I got almost 11,000 miles out of my last set (yes front and rear), and I'm a big boy and ride semi free spirited. 😏 I wouldn't consider any other tire πŸ‘
    1 point
  15. and here is a short video that I was able to locate on youtube that partially describes what my gut is telling your issue is leading to.. Keep in mind when viewing that the shift drum the person is holding in his hand does not have to be removed to repair the issue of pin failure or cam follower spring failure or pin engagement arm failure of which I am thinking is where your issue lies.. The clutch pack will have to come out though.. Lets see if this helps at all.
    1 point
  16. Hot off the press,,, JF if you cant successfully run thru this test I highly doubt that your issue is clutch related.. Take a quick peek and see if this works for you: Copy for the video I just posted on my youtube channel reads: ''I have a friend, JFootman, who is working on his 1983 Yamaha Venture and trying to determine whether the motorcycles inability to shift is clutch related or transmission failure related. Here is a simple test I have used for years that has helped me in determining where to begin a repair.. JFootman, I hope this little video helps you in some small way!!"" and here is the vid:
    1 point
  17. 1st and foremost I would do exactly what Corporal Newkirk mentions above. Set the bike upright in a fashion that you can turn the bars and end up with the clutch master as level as possible. Put rags under and around the master/banjo area to soak up brake fluid. Open the master cover and check the rubber seal under the master.. Move the lever in until you can feel resistance and hold it there while you carefully open the banjo - when you start to see fluid seeping and as the lever slowly sinks toward the bar watch the banjo for air bubbles. When the lever gets close to bottom close the banjo and slowly release the lever. Do it again.. Now refill master to the point you just have a tiny amount of air bubble on top of site window. Now pump the lever slowly and watch the tiny hole bleedback hole in the bottom of the master (not the big one that feeds the piston, the tiny one) and make sure its bleeding off - careful when doing this as that little hole has squirt fluid in more than one persons eye over the years.. I personally have never been real successful in getting a good clutch without doing exactly as Newkirk mentions.. Even a couple tiny air bubbles at that highest point in the system (the banjo) will give enough of a clutch loss that getting into gear, especially 1st, can be troublesome at best.. For me, a really good simple test to see if its tranny or clutch related is to, with the bike shut off = while rocking the bike back and forth gently and me leaning over its seat - move the shifter gently up and down to run it thru the gears while not touching the clutch.. If it will fall gently into and out of gear while rocking it back and forth it is more likely to be clutch related than anything else.. If it will not fall gently thru the gears doing this method, there is a really good chance you have a shift drum indent/pin issue. The end of the shift drum that carries the engagement pins that is held in place by a little cam follower is located under the clutch basket on the right hand side of the bike.. Very common a MX bikes because of the abuse that mechanism takes from landing jumps and abusing the shift lever in doing so is very common.. I have never encountered it on any of my MK1's but have read of owners who have.. Probably the most common issue on the MK1's relating to this that I have heard of is the pins getting loose or actually falling out.. The repair is fairly simple and does not require a tranny job (splitting of the cases,, engine removal).. I would DEFINITELY check into both the suggestions above very closely BEFORE I offed the bike as,, in no uncertain terms, the bike you have is fully capable of serving up numerous hundreds of thousands of mile of unspeakable fun if it really does only have 65k miles on it - even with no second gear.. Congrats on the find, I hope it all works out and you end up finding the joy these bikes have served up to many of us long time Venture riders.. Puc
    1 point
  18. You did just fine on your post and to be honest, we aren't that picky around here. To be honest, you would get more responses if you had posted in the Watering Hole though, Great looking bike and the mileage is very good. These bikes will easily exceed 100,000 with very little maintenance and well over 200,000 if you take care of them. You will need to get a carb syncing tool and learn how to use it but it's very easy. As for being cold natured, I've never found them to be very picky. Just give it some choke (enricher actually) and they will fire right up and warm up quickly. Very nice looking ride. Love the mufflers, they may be loud though. Look like they may be Baron's.
    1 point
  19. I know,, VR is not an E-Bike forum but I bumped into something yesterday that some of you might find applicable to your future touring needs. The "copy" I included with the video reads: "Clark is the person who, fortunately, my wife and I bumped into before beginning our new adventure on E-bikes. He introduced us to the Rattan line of bikes and we are thankful he did - these foldable, 750 watt motored machines are AWESOME. We already have over 200 miles of fun (no where near Clarks mileage of over 3000 miles on his) exploring the gorgeous area here on West Michigan's shoreline with endless ride ops. In this video Clark demo's his addition of an alarm system/tail light system that is FOB controlled (please excuse our impatience with the system during the filming of this, the alarm actually works PERFECTLY when not in a hurry LOL). Due to the expense of these bikes and the ease of which they could "walk off", I think our new friend is onto something!!! Thanks again Clark for all the info!! More Rattan E-Bike vids coming folks, keep an eye on my Youtube channel if interested!! Puc"
    1 point
  20. Yesterday I set out to lower the front end 1/2". About 5 hours later....after a break for lunch and looking in vain for the a nut that dropped into an abyss and finally making a trip to the autoparts store for a replacement...success! I'm ~5'9", and based on various posts I read, 1/2" drop seemed like the right amount and I didn't want a dramatic change. For flat footing @ a stop, I probably could have gone a hair lower but gotta say overall I couldn't be happier after a short test ride. I didn't expect to feel much difference, but it is noticeable, even w/ just a 1/2" drop. Moving the bike around by my own power is much easier too as I now have more leverage. I had previously installed Rox 2" risers so I need to spend a little time fining the right spot for my bars after the change.
    1 point
  21. @cowpuc, you ARE the man! If a picture's worth a thousand words.... Sincerely appreciate your uploading the vid. I think our posts crossed at the same time. I watched the video & went back out and tried again as you demonstrated (as if my hand had magical powers!) but still sitting between 4th & 5th (or 3rd & 4th).
    0 points
Γ—
Γ—
  • Create New...