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I wonder if the system voltage may be dropping. That would cause it to spit and sputter.

There was a recall for the front brake switch. Here is a link to the thread involving that and it has a copy of the letter sent out.

I hear ya! Sometimes I have to look in the mirror and chew my own butt out. (looking in the mirror pointing sternly at myself) “You do that again and you’re FIRED you got me?!!” 😁

Been doing pretty fairly well Kicster, hanging in there so to speak. The wife had both eyes cut on for cataracts and had one of those fail and had to have a redo and we are about 2 weeks away from seeing her back on her feet. With summer coming, new E-Bikes to play on, Tweeks ready to roll and grand kids out in California waiting for me to come play with them it looks like we are headed for a premo summer... How bout yourself brother? Hows life?

I highly suspect this idea of myself being the Master of anything is nonsense @djh3 but I will take a shot at this give some backyard mechanicing advice anyway.. @vulcanb822, 1st and foremost would be I advise you to find a dealership you KNOW does a fair amount of tire swaps, someone you can trust your life with. Make sure they KNOW to replace valve stems. So far, IMHO, you have gotten very worthy advice. Some steps that may help you in the removal would be: 1. Give the calipers, front and rear a good smack with a rubber mallet to back the caliper pistons off a little to allow ease in slipping the calipers off. Spray a clean rag down with some carb or brake cleaner and wipe the rotors back off after job is finished. 2. After removing wheels, front and back, remove the bushings from the grease seals on the outer most areas of the wheels and place them in a safe place at your work area before taking the wheel assemblies in for tire swaps. It is not uncommon, if left in the wheel assemblies for those bushing to pop out at the installing bike shop never to be seen again. Replace them back into their respectful places when you get the wheels with new tires on them back from the dealership. I also push as much fresh grease into wheel bearings as possible before I reinstall the bushings. 3. While you have the rear wheel off, pop the snap ring off the rear hub and pull the drive pin hub and grease the pins with Lucas Red and Tacky lube.. I have tested many brands of gear/pin lube and that Lucas is the only one I have found to date that remains intact tire swap to tire swap. Use the same product on the exposed hub gear and inner gear in the rear end. 4. I ALWAYS clean my caliper pistons while down and have had zero sticky/stuck calipers by doing so,, a huge plus if Murphy likes to tag along on long distance travels that end up taking multiple tire swaps in the process or even for just buzzing around your state. I will include a video of the process of doing so at the end of this.. 5. For reinstalling/lining up the rear wheel gears when reinstalling I like to slide the rear axle in part way from the brake side, lifting the wheel up and sliding the axle thru the wheel bearings and into the driven side of the rear end so the wheel is being supported and aligned with the axle. Now I can align the gears in the hub easily by rotating the rear wheel gently as I slide it into the gears.. Piece of cake! After the gears are engaged I simply pull the axle back out and finish mounting the caliper bracket/caliper. 6. Make sure you are replacing the axle washer correctly at the caliper mount on the rear wheel so your caliper does not end up in a bind. Really not that big/hard of a job and IMHO, something everyone who rides long distance should be comfortable with tackling as one just never ever knows if/when knowing how to do could come in very handy! YOU CAN DO IT!! Here are some vids that may help:

Right there with you @KIC. I have followed that exact path and have found that journey to be downright fun. I actually have pretty much sent off enough pieces/parts free of charge to areas all over the globe that I figure I have a whole bike out there roaming around somewhere, still accumulating miles of smiles.. A huge success too is that I got to help out a brother or sister in the process, paying it forward has some real enriching blessings. It is interesting though, considering actual value, my tired old has been brain went right where @Squidley's brain went. My initial thought was $125 per complete side bag. I think that is a fair price for both parties.

I get it Chief. I ran my own business for several years until I decided the boss was an A$$HOLE for making me work so many hours. It took me getting hurt and off work for 6 months to realize I didn’t have to work so much to live. I’m semi-retired and hoping to make it completely retired within the year.

Thank you for the input...... All I want is both...lol... not looking at any get rich quick scheme and in the Get rid of the "stuff" and put some money into my bike fund for future tires, maintenance etc. I would rather all this go on some bikes to keep them all going, I also have $$ invested in rescuing these bikes from the scrap yards. Again, the $$ goes into my bike. Thanks for the insight .. Also I have 2 full sets of matching keys/ bag locks/gas cap/ignition .. Again looking for a fair price ... FYI.. I have "given away" more part then ever sold off of these bikes only asking for actual shipping costs ( which most have covered, some didn't)

@Yamaha32088Rather than trying to cut it off I remove sleeves like that were ever that type of seal is used by A) tapping on the sleeve with a small ball peen hammer or I round the end of a chisel and gently tap like I am trying to cut across the ring, which it wont it will just dent and flatten the ring. What both methods do is flatten the ring material more and there by causing the ring to expand (grow in size). Continue working your way around the ring until it expands to the point were it easily slides off. Any kind of cutting method all to often results in nicking or damaging the shaft. If you already cut it off and nick the shaft coat the seal area with https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/ . Any mess or excess can be easily cleaned with alcohol. Also if the outer diameter of the new seal is rubber or rubber coated, coat the diameter of the seal and the bore it fits into with gear oil. Don't force it in dry. If it is a bare metal outer diameter, just give it a thin coat of Permatex 2 or red silicone. If it is metal with a coating on it put it in dry.

When I picked up my bike yesterday, the gear indicator was working but both times today when I took it out it did not work. Also when I tried to set the cruise control it would turn on, but I could not set the cruise. I don’t know if the two are related. I did see there is a fuse for the cruise control, but since it turns on I don’t think it is the fuse. Still searching the manual but if anyone has some suggestions, they would be welcome. Thanks, Eric

Sorry guys I no longer make the arm rests.