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Maybe, just to be sure,,,,,, according to @cowpuc you need to have the springs in the tubes. If you measured the oil without the springs in the tubes then when you put the springs in the oil would be much too high and you might even have a solid fork, and if you manage to compress it you could blow the seals.

Hi everyone, i am Alexander from Bulgaria and this is my 1999 Royal Star Classic .

I would cut back on the pre-load not the oil. Less oil will not effect the dampening.

Took it off the work table, and went for my 1st ride of the season. A little later than I normally would begin riding but the more I worked on it the more little things I found that either needed to be or may as well address. including top set polishing removed parts on the buffing wheels I mounted on my wood turning lathe, while they were off the bike.This of course led to having to remove and buff parts that I initially intended not to bother with but once you start bring some aluminum pieces up to a chrome like finish, the ones you were just going to let go look even worse. So off they come and to the make shift polishing station they go. Swapped out rusty chrome crash bars with a good looking set I salvaged from an 87 I stripped down for parts and all this being fitted in with refurbishing a hard top camper that belonged to my son. Thanks to my big mouth I stuck my foot right into a cowpuc ( pun intended @cowpucLOL ). and got myself elected to do the work. But that is another story.

Agreed do not cut back on the oil. As a matter of fact cut back far enough you will hamper the dampening effect and you will end up with a bouncy front end. You can always shorten the spacer tube if it rides too hard.

Was the 5.5 inches from the top on oil fill taken with the springs in or with the springs out? The springs need to be inside the tubes when filling. Personally I set mine to 4" from the top on a refill with the springs in and the tubes collapsed and that always works best in my case. Actually it is the oil weight that controls the dampening. If your dampening is slow and sluggish then try a lighter weight oil. Make sure you have your springs in with the progressive windings at the bottom of the spring when you put the spring into the tube. If the static drop (you should see about 1 1/2 inches of drop on your forks into the lower tubes when you put the weight of the bike back onto the springs when lowering off center stand and that is where it should stay until you sit on the bike) is to high than you need to lessen your preload.. If its to low so your fork tubes are setting lower than 1 1/2 inches while the weight of the bike is sitting on the fork springs you should increase your preload until you reach 1 1/2 inches. All this can be tweeked to your type of riding and what you want from your bike, it is basic suspention set up info..

Gotcha. I didn’t use the pvc pipe that it came with, I put the OEM washer and cap on top of the springs, then screwed the bolts back in. Gonna give it more time, rode to work this morning and thoroughly enjoyed the ride minus the wind.

I bought the 230 Tour Master.

Good eyes!!! How did you come up with that idea, I would have never thought.

@Pasta BurnerThe other is for the sending unit at the top of the tank

Pictures have been restored.

Adjustable ice block tongs for lifting or moving ice blocks.

Mounted some new tires. Had intended to do an oil change as well, but ran out of time. One more item crossed off the "to-do" list.

https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/custom-yamaha-royal-star-with-heart-v-max-from-archives/ Ran across this older article and thought it was a neat idea. Alot of work but a neat idea. Not sure if they understood the whole v boost concept but if they are use to harleys i guess i can't blame them. I would have loved to see their faces the moment they tried to install the carbs.

Right, wrong or indifferent,, this is what I have always done and was always, in the end,, very impressed with my highly skilled abilities in creating a good outcome,,, a legend in my own mind :crackup: I dump everything OEM in there except for the little little cap that covers the end of the spring.. That long piece that goes lon top of the OEM spring is history.. IMHO,, if you did get a set of PVC preload spacers (piece of PVC pipe about 3 inches long?) with your Progressives they are plastic to make them easy to cut to the length of preload you desire.. There is no way you will get the full 3 inches in there as preload.. Personally,, I like 3/4" of preload and have always tossed the PVC in favor of heavy wall copper pipe caps as spacers cause I like to know if I decide to beat the living daylights out of my bike in some hair brained "wonder where that snake trail in the Utah Mountains lead to" moment I aint gonna end up shredding some plastic into my fork valving.. After cleaning out the old whale/fish oil that Mom Yam uses for OEM fork oil completely and rebuilding the bushings if needed, I slip the Progressives into the collapsed forks, then add some fork fluid being careful not to fill to close to the top.. Then I lift the forks to the top and screw in the fork caps a ways to keep the fluid from gushing out while I work the forks up and down to get the new fluid into the valving.. When I am satisfied that I am feeling proper dampening of the oil I remove the caps and recollapse the forks with the springs protruding from the tops of them again.. Now I take my handy dandy fork oil leveler (its a long tube connected to a syringe (gotta LOVE those large AG Syringes), slide the tube in with the springs still inside the fork and measure 3 and 1/2 inches of distance between the top of the fork to the top of the oil and suck out oil till I get air,, both sides doing this quarentees equal oil height.. I use Bel Ray 12 weight and have always found this perfect for my first gen off road travels and canyon carving needs with 2 up, fully loaded... Now I raise the forks, make sure I have the heavier wound spring section of the spring in first, slip that little OEM end piece over the spring, put the preload copper end cap with its solid face pointing toward the fork cap (up) in and set about the task of getting the fork caps on without cross threading them,, beware the fine threads.. I have found that tieing down the back of the bike if I am working off the centerstand is handy for this as it takes some serious controlled down pressure to get the caps started.. Once buttoned up I have also found,, at least for me,, no air pressure in the forks = the best handling/ride now.. I am sure I missed something here but maybe this will help somehow..

For that money I would buy the Sena blue tooth and not worry about the wires.