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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/2021 in all areas
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3 points
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My wife will still never get on board with all the random “trash” I keep around the garage but an old snowblower shoe and a pry bar got it in place quick and easy. Loosened all the clamps and hit with some WD40 then used a little leverage. Thanks for the tips, they helped me look around and use what I have at hand.2 points
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A thin coating of silicone disc brake lube on all surfaces works wonders. I use it on any o-ring or rubber sleeve assembly task.2 points
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Thanks @cowpuc will give it a shot in the morning. Maybe loosening up the others will help it go in. So sad I bought this bike directly coming from a shop where it was specifically in for carb rebuild. Hard to trust anybody anymore.2 points
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Thanks @Flyinfool, I thought so... Here is my latest addition to the fold you bunch of lop eared varmints. This little shooter was just to precious to leave behind in the dark corner of another friends gun cabinet. It came with a bunch of spare parts he had gathered thru the years as well as a holster.. Its a surprisingly good shooter even though it only holds 6 rounds. Being a 22lr it is also affordable to play with.. Next item of discussion is this extremely quiet 22lr ammo, Colibri by Aquila.. Any of you varmints ever played with this stuff? Since getting my 22lr conversion kit for my Beretta (see last set of pics) I have been watching and waiting for some of this to pop up. The advantage for me is, even though it wont cycle the action on my Beretta or 10/22 or this new little Jennings, I can shoot it quietly here at the house and because my Beretta lower reciever is still being used with the conversion kit, I can practice with my fire control group on my Beretta with out offending neighbors - wayyy cool!! If your thinking of doing this be reminded that the Super Colibri is louder than the standard (which is what I have). YES, the standard is slower ballistically BUT,, wayy quieter.. It is actually quieter than my daisy pellet gun and MUCH quieter than my Ruger Pellet gun. Just an FYI.. SOO MUCH FUN!!2 points
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Usually I, just by loosening the clamps up to wide open, heating up the intake manifolds some if they are stiff cause its cold out and lubing the intakes with some WD 40 I can snap them in with hand pressure. There have been occasions however that I ended up covering the carbs with a rag so nothing could drop into them, then laying a stack of 2x4's over the top of them so I ended up with a flat area I could lay a long 2x4 across the lower ones giving me a good solid surface to press down on while a moved pressure a little angle at a time. My money is on once you heat the rubber a little with a heat gun so they are pliable and spray them with lube they will pop right in.. Having the clamps real loose is also essential,, as is making sure they are all slightly started when you press down on the carb bank..2 points
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Hi @Gary N.,, how you folks been? Gary I tried the higher dollar, extended range tires numerous times over the years (including the new Dunny E-4 that is on Tweeks right now) and was always impressed with getting over 6500 miles on the rear tire while running desert temps, fully packed and running two up. The ONLY real issue I ALWAYS ran across was having the knowledge that there was NO WAY on God's green earth I was going to be able to spoon the off during a road trip if needed. Here in the States, it is customary (it seems) for dealerships to charge x2 or X3 the going rate once your bike is towed in with a flat to get you back on the road. For that cause, and also because I REALLY have never cared for someone else swapping on tires for me when I like to see what things look like internally, I have always stuck with less expensive tires that I can pop on and off myself at roadside (or bike shop parking lot if needing a new tire so I can cash and carry). I have had several flats, front and rear, while touring over the years and in my case the softer rubbered, less stiff sidewalled tires have always been my go to. I was also one of our group who gave Metz a fair try and was VERY dissatisfied with the results = delaminization on more than one occasion, personally it would have to be a very special occasion (like it was the only tire available and I was in a bad situation) that would cause me to go Metz to this very day.. You know me,, I always LOVED to experiment with my bikes and had I of been able to find a Car Tire that would have not had clearence issues on one of my MK1's I would have loved to have tried one. I know Bill (screen name Jake something) had really good luck running one on his wing (see vid) that was a "run flat" design or something like that.. I was amazed to think 20 thousand miles and still good tread and to have NO worries about a flat during that whole time period = oh heck yeah,,, my mouth drueled over such a huge advantage.. IF I were in your shoes and IF you can find something similar for your bike that is the direction I would go in.. I KNOW Bill personally and KNOW he was shooting 100% square with me on all the advantages of the Car Tire on his scoot.. If that is not possible and me being me,, I would never venture back into an E4, Metz, Michillin or any other of the long distance tires but would stick with having to spoon on and off 3 or 4 less expensive, doable with my own tools tires.. Of those, my very favorite of all are the Shinko 230 Tour Masters that @videoarizona got me hooked on.. Out of allll the cheaper tires I have ran the Shinks always balance out well, have excellent grip in all types of weather known to man (including off roading), get the best mileage for the low end tires and are always an easy spoon off and on.. There my friend,, thats all I got.. Regardless of what you choose,, have fun out there brother and ride safe!! Your ol buddy Puc.. (Gary start on 9 minutes in to go directly to Bill explaining the tire)2 points
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Spin on adapter came in just a couple days and seems to be working perfectly with no leaks. To get the old bolt and cover off I bought an extractor set like @Midicat posted from Harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-9-pc-67894.html the 12mm didn't grip but tapping the 11mm on it grabbed with the GI Joe Kung Fu Grip, used a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and breaker bar and made short work of the whole process. I remember when I used one of those extractor sockets now, I know I used it on a lug nut on my Wrangler and I’d put money in I had rented it from my local auto store way back in the day. thanks all for the help.2 points
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The wife's been pushing me pretty hard to get a Spyder, but I'm not quite ready. Took the RSV out for a short ride the other day and was reminded of why and how much I love my Venture.2 points
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In our local Craigs: https://muskegon.craigslist.org/mcy/d/holton-motorcycle/7306837163.html1 point
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1 point
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Tightening is easier said than done, what a shitty location. Finally got in there with an Allen and Pliers to turn it. Gonna swing by work in the morning to grab the right tool to get in there.1 point
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Just tighten that bolt up and check the others. There's an o ring under them and as long as it's still pliable it will seal back up.1 point
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Interesting. I like home made remedies. Oddly it’s not leaking anymore. Been in the center stand and I’m working on getting that carb seated. Time will tell, and time for another beer to get this thing figured out.1 point
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Nice I never experienced dealing with your rig but we feared the Orion’s (for as much as you can fear in a war game lol) I think the reason we have the best sub defense Is we have the greatest sub fleet. Thanks for your* service!1 point
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At least for me, the spin on adapter is less about saving money and more about convenience. The filters available from any auto parts store and there is no chance of pinching the O-Ring gasket or stripping the bolt.1 point
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Actually it makes sense that Pennzoil and Quaker state share the same issues , since Pennzoil and Quaker are basically the same oil produced by the Pennzoil-Quaker State Company. It would be specially bad for the 318 because they were notorious for for the drain holes at the back of the heads plugging up and an oil like Pennzoil or Quaker State would worsen that issue.1 point
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I would loosen all 4 air filter box clamps and remove the airbox. Then loosen all 4 air intake clamps and pop the carbs out. Silicone grease the o- rings on the top and bottom of all 4 carbs. Maybe a light coating on the inside of the intakes. Try and seat the carbs back into the intakes with downward pressure in a cross pattern, like tightening lug nuts. Good luck!1 point
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All good info, it should work for you. Sometimes though it might take 2 people and it might end up being the case of darned if you do and darned if you don't, in other words as you pop the one side in the other pops out. Keep at it, and they will all seat eventually. Personally I think the problem arises from the fact that the carbs were not perfectly flat when joined together, they may have looked flat, but weren't close enough. Yours look like they should flip in, but it might be a back and forth a couple of times. Heat and a good dose of WD40, or better yet, Fluid Film.1 point
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When(IF) you find a competent, honest motorcycle mechanic buy him(her) a bottle of their favorite liquid refreshment, remember them at Christmas and keep in close contact with them for life. You've heard of the proverbial hen's tooth, right? It's pretty much guaranteed that the carb "rebuild" that was paid for consisted of hosing the carbs down with a can of carb cleaner and MAYBE new bowl gaskets. I'm surprised they actually removed the carbs from the intake boots, TBH. My local Yamaha shop has been extremely helpful and their parts man is a huge Venture fan and a wealth of information. I would never in a million years let their mechanics touch any of my bikes.1 point
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I second loosening up all clamps. That, combined with pliable boots, allows some movement for all 4 to settle in. I also reassembled all 4 carbs while they were on a flat surface in order to make them all as even as possible for re-installation into the boots. If worse comes to worse, you could try loosening the hardware that holds the carbs together.1 point
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Isnt that strange,, here in our area it was ALWAYS Pennzoil that created the sludge in the old days.. Quaker was ALWAYS the go to oil around here.. I cant tell you how many Chevy 283's ended up in my possession because of Pennzoil usage.. Cams lobes ran right off them.. On another note, I think it may be Honda Line oil that is crystal clear if memory serves me right.. I use to have a neighbor who worked for an oil distributer who also kept my oil supplied for free via damaged product from their warehouse and I had a bunch of bike oil that was clear as water.. I actually saved the stuff and ran it in my own bikes cause I always liked being able to see when the oil was dirty at a glance...1 point
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Wait! Hold the presses! Is it an anchor for holding wire for when farmers checked corn?1 point
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Not a hay fork or a fence stretcher. Not big enough for hay and no racheting mechanism for fence stretching. Could be a hog hanger but they are generally butchered upside down. Seems a little small for ice blocks. So, with all this verbosity, I don’t know either!!!1 point
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1 point
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Not sure if Quaker has improved or not but with so many trustworthy oils plus my past experience of dealing with the poor souls who have paid the price for using it, I am not willing to gamble on it.1 point
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I'm picking my bike up today and ordered these fog lights. Will report back on install and quality. If they look like junk I will return them without installing.1 point
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1 point
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That looks like a nice tent! It's a bit out of my price range! I would highly reccomend setting up to pull a trailer for extended camping trips. Kris and I just use a cheap Ozark Mtn. 4 man tent from Walmart. A good sleep system is a better investment than an expensive tent. Check the gun and knife shows or Mil Surp stores for the newer black Ranger systems. They can be had for under $100 in excellent condition and will have you set for every condition. With the trailer, we have room to pack the tent, sleep systems, a small folding table, camp stove, cooking gear, a large loaded cooler(on the tongue), air matresses, and even a HF Canopy to set up the kitchen. This leaves the hard bags for snacks, water, rain gear, and tools1 point
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The one I have I'd like to sell is a S&W Stainless Steel Model 639 9mm. BUT, after looking into how to sell it, turns out in NC, I have to have a permit to sell a handgun or have a NC carry permit as well to be able to buy one. My carry permit is a FL permit that I got during my 3 yr 7 month job in Homestead FL. I plan to get a NC carry permit now. A permit is required in NC in order to give a handgun to a relative. Recently, my wife's son gave her two of his handguns but they both have NC carry permits so that was legal. All of my handguns I acquired when I was in FL and they are legal. The walls are closing in.0 points