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Was just talking to a friend and showed her these pics. She just chuckled and said that reminded her of her days on her dads farm. Not the exact same as the pics but they used a very similar thing to lift and stack hay bails in their barn. They had a rail that circled the barn at the top rafters and with a pully arrangement that ran along the rail. That suspended this type of attachment and it hooked the bail wires and so they could lift and move it anywhere in the barn to stack them. Two girls on the lift rope and her dad on the guide rope. She also remembers taking flying lessons from the loft on that set up.

I don’t know about other people but I’m sick of these companies using COVID as an excuse for poor service.

So if you can see for 30 miles on March 23, how far can you see on April 10th? lol.

Hello all, Well I picked up a 2007 Harley you pack and decided to install. Steps taken: 2018 Harley soft tail deluxe quick release rack with sissy bar, because I had one, but they make a 2 up tour pack rack. I cut and removed the sissy bar. I removed the Yamaha quick release sissy bar, rack-backrest and removed the docking mounts, save. I mounted the Harley docking mounts with x2 long bolts into the rear bolts that hold the fender. I drilled into the fender support just behind the front hole for yamaha dock and taped, install bolts. Then I mounted the Softail setup. At this point you can use some flat steel and mount it to the HD deluxe rack, or if you buy the new 2 up Softail rack, I believe it would slip right on the added docking mounts. Install Harley tour pack and there you have it. Do at your own risk. Thanks

60 is the new 40! When I was 59 I got married for the second time to a 42 yr old lady with an 11 yr old son. Retired at 70. Things started going downhill at about 74 when I got shingles and had to quit exercising for a good while. Trust me, you don't want to get shingles. It took about a year to fully recover from that crap. And take statins if you can tolerate them to keep your cholesterol low. I didn't. Big mistake.

Ya he will do 1,500 So if motor is good then your thought is it a 700.00 bike with bad motor a trunk set up is worth that

So you think a 99 is worth 3,500-4000? I know en engine swap is no small task on these bikes. bit I do get a motor would be 800.00 plus.

For the $12 it's not worth either of our time to look into it. Money well spent

5/3/21 to be exact. Don't make us come after you. :)_

Very nice. Should be good for about 300,00 more.

Picture of Ray

NOT everything.......I am still trying to find one that will help me understand my wife....

Marca had to have a new valve put in her heart in Dec and now the Dr wants more tests. It sure makes one think about what happens next and when. There's no time like the present to plan the future. For her and me, we are quite alright with what's been offered.

Do what the Dr says and you will be back in the wind again before you know it, Good luck with everything!

+1 for replacing the rubber lines with stainless steel braided lines. I also looked for more aggressive brake pads. Years ago I installed Carbone Lorraine Series C685 (p/n 2305A3) brake pads. They had significantly more bite/roughness/friction than the previous EBC pads that were installed.

I did it again, I wasn't looking for a new bike (yes I was, M109R) but somehow I discovered the Royal star and now its sitting in my driveway Hi my name is Eric and I just brought home a 2009 royal star I live in Illinois on the Wisconsin border. I have owned over 10 bikes ranging from an RM125 to viragos, CB750. GS550E, concours,VTX1300 and so on. my first ride was last night and I can say it was very comfortable and has great pickup to say my new bike is super clean would be an understatement

There is a screen in the bottom of some dishwasher's and if not seated properly large portions of food sneak by and plug the hose. So may not be cascades fault. NO I am not a cascade rep. LOL

Something I forgot about until tonight while working on the bike. The transmission shaft cover on the left side is held on with a bunch of Allen head bolts. The bottom one has a copper washer and when you remove that bolt an extra 1/2 cup of oil drains out. If I being fussy with my oil change I will remove this bolt to drain the extra oil but most times I don't bother and that is why I probably didn't think to mention it earlier.

Seafoam is more of a miracle than an additive.

Shipping delays and Out of Stock items has been the norm for over a year now.

They may not be so far out actually. Our most intense areas for covid around here is in Toronto/Peel region. It's claimed that the high Covid count is due to the working conditions/habits at places such as Amazon and other close quartered plants. Understandable. And when the down and out counts ranges in the 100s in one location, it makes sense to me.

Seafoam recomends adding one ounce per qt of oil if you use it in the engine oil. My old 2002 F150 5.4L with 165,000 miles on it recently started making a little valve train noise on cold startup. I added 6 ounces of Seafoam to the oil about 30 miles before an oil change and drove it gently. Now there is no valve train noise on cold startup. So, I was pleased with the result. I usually don't believe in oil additives but it seems to have worked well.

Adjustable ice block tongs for lifting or moving ice blocks.

Amazing the double edged sword. I’m getting new OEM gaskets. Covid had two orders of them cancelled on me over the past year because of warehouse and business shutdowns. Not sure what oil is in there, this is the first change of my ownership. After digging in there yesterday I think a good degreasing will go a long way first to then start seeing where the problem recurs.

ya, good idea on the pic. I have a couple. I'll try and get them loaded up. thnx.

ya, to the right home, I would. I got it dirt cheap 20 years ago, I've only put 25k on it, has a little over 45k total. Had a ton of fun. If someone was willing to put some effort into her and keep her running, I would.

My guess is an early life saving device for Lumber Jacks working more than 10 feet off the ground,, probably known back then as a Sky Hook. On the fast track down after the Jack mis-stepped one of his tree spurs he would simply unhook this from its scabbard found on his belt and toss, like an anchor, into the branches going by at warp speed. Of course,, most of those great American hero's were intelligent enough to attach a rope into that hoop above the hooking device before tossing it.. Noticing that your fathers specimen does not have said rope Orlin,, I am guessing that this one in particular was owned by a less intelligent Lumber Jack and that is also why your Dads Sky Hook is still in such very good condition. Probably spent its life stuck in the branches of 70 foot Douglas Fir tree while protected by the trees canopy above.

Cowpuc starter kit:

Today, in a bittersweet moment, I sold The Beast. The 1983 XVZ12TK that started this love affair with 4 cylinder, liquid cooled monsters. To be honest, she hasn't really been mine for about 3 years. I gave her to my son, then took her back as a trade in on my '86 when I got the Black Cherry 2006 RSV. She wasn't getting any road time and I hated to see her sitting there all alone and rotting away with neglect. So a new owner, a prior forum member, now has a resto project and hopefully The Beast will shine again!

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks so much. Got it back together. Here's the after picture.

Shook out the moth balls, blew the dust out of the tail pipes took her for a ride. That first ride of the season is always invigorating!

Got mine just now. The Heap is still up on the lift(rectifer upgrade) and will be installing next week. Thanks Zach.

It is a common problem. An inattentive mechanic may not notice the different bolt lengths. AND the same inattentive mechanic when looking at the parts diagram sees the longer bolt (91317-06020)going into the threaded hole in the head at the exact location that the shorter bolt (91314-06016) should go. The parts diagram is wrong, but if the mechanic were to look at the parts LIST, he should see that there are just two 16mm bolts (#7) and the list correctly assigns the shorter bolt to its proper location. But the drawing does not!

That's the vacuum line to the TCI. It lets the TCI sense the engine load and adjust the timing. What joins the two hoses is not a butt connector, it's a restrictor. The purpose is to damp the vacuum pulses so the TCI sees an average rather than the wild swings in every cycle. It keeps the TCI from throwing the timing all over the place. That restrictor has the same effect as the ones used on carb sync gauges. And it's important that it's on the engine end of the hose - the volume in the hose from the restrictor to the TCI is what damps the fluctuations.

Now that is a through job, way to go. This winter I'm doing the rear drive,forks etc... BTW I see a lot of containers of various fluids in your shop but not a single jug with "XXX" on it.

This is my Royal star with sidecar in Australia, it is a very wide setup, but handles beautifully out on the open road, would be happy to answer any questions for you.

Our Labs love to ride. Have leash hooked to the underside of the harness. No problems.

Here's a few pics of what I have done with all my 1st gens. Below is an ebay auction of the fuse blocks I use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111036537007?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have recently done away with the glass fuse holder in favor of the ATC fuse block from Littlefuse (part# 350417BP). I picked up my block from O'Reilly Auto Parts but they are available from other sources. I decided to just replace the block, making the least amount of change to stock as possible. Installing the block is pretty straight forward. I just clipped the wires off the old terminals and then soldered them in place on the new block finishing out with heat shrink over the exposed terminal ends and then an application of liquid tape for further protection. I also cut the accessory terminal block from the original holder so that I could continue to use the stock setup. In a departure from other installations, to keep everthing in place and sercure the terminal block, I fabricated a plastic strip from ABS, perfectly forming it to the block with the cover on. Using ABS cement I attached the terminal block to the strip. I used a plastic welder to heat the ABS where the plastic needed to be bent and formed it over a block of wood, holding it place until it cooled sufficiently to retain it's shape. The strip fits into the original front slot in the stock mount and secures with the stock screw in the rear holding everything in place tightly. There are no clearance issues with the false tank cover and it slipped right into place.

We have a farm and wrap silage bales each year. We typically order the next years wrap in august and its usually on a barge coming up the Mississippi before freezeup and we can pick it up in Minnesota over winter. This year there are no dock hands no forklift opperators no one at all at the docks or warehouses to unload the barges because they are making more staying at home then working. We are sourcing wrap from Europe this year because the stuff from Argentina is stuck on a dock somewhere along the mouth of the Mississippi and may not move for months yet.