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Just completed my beginner rider safety class held by Man of war Harley in Lexington Ky. It was challenging and on the last day it rained and the wind almost blew me over . Now I can put my motorcycle endorsement on my license and practice practice practice! Spring is here and like all of us I’m anxious to get out and about after a difficult year . I got my second COVID shot today! I know everyone wants to put this last year of this virus behind us and get back to some kind of normal so stay safe everyone and I’ll see you on the road!

Hey Cowpuc, I apologize in advance if I take this thread a bit off topic but I wanted to touch on the extent I went to, to try and solve this issue with the overheating stators. I actually machined ONE "modified" stator cover from 6061 T6 Aluminum Billet. It increased the oil volume in the pan by 1.1 quarts and moved the face of the stator cover almost 2 inches away from the stator. It worked great and allowed me to put a stator that came close to 100 amps of output in my 87'VR! You would think that this would be a win/win for the First Gens. Heck, you could run a Toaster Oven on your bike if you wanted to! Well the problem was that cover machined from billet would cost $800.00 (MY cost for material and machine time) not to mention the 100 amp stator was another $250.00. (again, actual cost) Historically speaking, I have found that First Gen. owners are a bit "light in the pocketbook" when it comes to spending money on parts for their bikes. After the excitement of solving the issue wore off, I found myself wondering how many First Gen. owners would actually spring for a $1200. stator upgrade. Of course the answer was "NOT Many"! So the tooling and fixture went into a box I have set aside for projects that I would NEVER be able to sell to the general population of First Gen. owners, and I stopped getting High Output stators wound by my local vendor. I went to a lot of trouble to offer a solution to the low amperage stator offered by Yamaha, only to find out that there is no way I could sell the darn things! I now fully understand why Yamaha puts such a wimpy stator in our bikes. I wanted to share this info with the community, and to let you know how much this broke my heart NOT to be able to offer this upgrade to solve this issue. Rant over, now back to your regularly scheduled programming! Earl

First off, Thanks Pucster for the props! The reason the part number has changed for the MKII is that the stator was upgraded for the MKII model, and the MKI had been discontinued in production as of the time of the upgrade. Physically, the MKII stator will replace the MKI stator. The rectifier housings are the same for both MKI and MKII Models. Now this only pertains to the stock Yamaha Stators and R/R's. Aftermarket is a different animal. There was a time when I was having High Output Stators wound locally, and they produced incredible amperage! the problem was that the stator cover was so close to the actual stator that the engine oil could not keep the stator cool enough to keep it from burning itself up in the warmer states! (Cali, Texas, Fla. for example) They ran just fine in Boston, or Canada but not down south. I'm still running one in my 87'VR to this day. (I live in Pennsylvania) So beware of aftermarket sellers of "High Output" stators. No doubt they will make the juice, but how long they last is another question. Second Gen. bikes don't seem to have as much of a problem with the "juiced up" stators. (More oil volume in the stator area) Earl

Have mixed feelings about this 😕! The only thing good about it is that it is going to my son, and I do feel good about that. Well, it's going to a new home. My oldest son is coming to pick it up today. Lots of smiles and miles on that thing for sure. Can't believe how much "stuff" that I have that goes with that bike. I do know that a big chunk of garage floor space will be open. SO----------- I bought a 2004 Harley Fat Boy! Yeah I know, I'll post a pic when I take one. 😀 I still have the XS650 chopper, 02 Bonny and the 09 650 Vstrom though, so the garage is still Lookin good. And of course I did tell him about this place, although he seems to not be forum guy.

Yeah, your right about that. Reminds me to tell him about the Squidley RK muffler brackets. 😀 I rode with someone, thinnk it was a Venturer who had a Honda F6B Goldwing. Loved that bike

Maybe this will help https://www.ngksparkplugs.co.za/products/ngk-resistor-caps/

It'll be a while, I've seen his garage. Trying to find a small wire thingie in his drawers will be a feat!!

Good for you and congratulations but keep in mind the course is only the foundation. The rest depends on how you build on that foundation. Eye's ear's and the grey matter between your ears and how you use them are the most important tools in your arsenal of safety equipment. Distraction, not paying attention and cockiness are your most dangerous pitfalls. Having said all that and not meaning to rain on your parade, enjoy your summer and rack up some miles of one of the greatest pleasures available to us all.

Spray on truck bed liner for top case, fenders, radiator guard and wind scoop.

I believe I’m getting ready to buy new Shinko 777 HDs for both ends. Probably going to purchase new metal valve stems.

Likely spots for left side oil leaks,, hmmmm.. Ok @Geobob,, here is a quick draw McGraw rundown of who/what/where when I would look if it was doing such on one of my 83 MK1s: 1. Make sure the leak is not coming from uptop. Overfilling the case, filling above 1/2 way up the site window for case oil always caused excess breather oil to gather in the air box and then leaking out of the #1 carb (left rear - right above where you say your leaking)/air box boot, running down engine and onto ground - could easily gather on Health/Beauty Aids Saddle Bag (left bag). 2. Check oil filter cover. 3. I would make sure it is not coming from the crush washer on the oil drain plug.. 4. I would make sure my oil level switch is not leaking while laying on my back looking at the oil drain plug. 2. Make sure I put the copper crush washer back on the bottom left screw in the forward bevel cover last time I had it out. I would also double check screws for torque on that cover and stator cover all while looking carefully at the screws in the stator cover because I am pretty sure that it is possible to get to long of a screw in the wrong place when replacing that cover and that over tightening to long of a screw can actually force the screw into the cavity after fracturing the aluminum in the bottom of the screw hole and that oil can then find its way out of the case and out of that screw hole - does that make sense at all? 3. Knowing the drive shaft seal in the forward bevel is covered by that boot that connects the swing arm to the forward bevel and that boot will capture oil drippings I would probably write that off and go directly to the cavity between the forward bevel gear and the stator area. The forward bevel gear cover covers this area and is the cover that has to be removed to swap out the clutch slave.. Do you know the area I am speaking of? I will attach a video that shows what is under it. 4. I would take a pen light and mirror and examine that cavity and see if it is saturated with oil seepage. If so I would pull the forward bevel gear cover and clean area real well with carb cleaner. 5. I would then start the bike while sitting on center stand and watch for oil leaks.. I would leave the forward bevel cover off so I could watch for leaks thinking the forward bevel area is no part of the oil pump pressurized system but is lubed by loose oil carried on the gears in the tranny but I would be prepared with a rag just in case LOL 6. I would not be even one tiny little bit surprised to find the stator wire harness grommet leaking where the grommet contacts the cover and where the wires run thru it cause Murphy likes to do that to me. 7. I would not be at all surprised to find oil leaking from the neutral switch on the wall of the case cause Murphy really does like to trick me. 8. I would look at the shift shaft coming out of the engine for leakage there because,, you guessed it,, Murphy.. 9. double check the clutch slave gasket,, very very unlikely but possible IMHO There,, that should keep ya busy LOL Here is that video I mentioned but before I go, I bid you all the best in finding your leak: Puc