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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/17/2021 in all areas

  1. I burned a valve. Fix it or use for parts. I also have a 1983 1200 that slips out of 2ed gear, common I'm told. Both of them have always been garaged. ALSO...I do have a 3ed 1200 I bought new, had to lay it down and lost all the plastic, I kept for parts. Need to make some room and send these guys on.
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  2. Hey Earl @skydoc_17you got my attention on this one. Would love to hear your point of view. Always like to hear the pros and cons on things. Makes for informed decision making me thinks.
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  3. sounds normal to me Keep in mind also the fuel bowls are vented at the top and evaporating fuel will escape through these vents lowering fuel bowl level, hence allowing the needle seat to start to open relieving pressure on the fuel line which signals the pump to run. As pressure builds the pump begins to struggle and slow down eventually stopping. This is all very normal. Since fuel evaporating is one of the key factors in a normally healthy fuel system it also stands to reason that both time and temp such as sitting in a heated garage or in the sun increases the amount of fuel evaporating from the fuel bowls. The fact that the pump will build enough pressure and the bike runs quite normal would tell me there is no fault with the pump. IMHO from you description I would say you have nothing to worry about. Ride the bike and enjoy any real full system problems will come to light on its own without you try to look for any. BTW despite how it sounds, that last sentence was meant to be reassuring not chastising.
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  4. My question is: what exactly do you mean by the words: I still don't have a clutch? It can go 2 ways: it either will not dis-engage or it slips when handle is released. If it slips, then maybe you need to address the plates etc. If it won't dis-engage, your problem is most likely in the hydrolic side
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  5. Hey Ben, Thanks for the props!! Now Jacob, It would be easy to tell you that the Friction Discs on Ebay were made in China, but the more important point is the fact that new friction discs are NOT going to address the failed part in your clutch which is the Clutch Diaphragm Spring! There are two ways to go here, Switch to the Barnett Clutch System, (don't get me started on putting a 70's era clutch on a 21st century motorcycle!) or go with a heavy duty clutch diaphragm spring and upgrade the 1/2 friction disc in the rear of the clutch pac with a FULL disc. I offer a kit that provides the second option. That kit is in the Member Vendor's section of this forum. If you want to hear the "Long Version" of the pros and cons of the Barnett Clutch System ask, and I will explain it to you. Otherwise, check out the Member Vendor section of the forum and I will get that kit right out to you. I also wanted to mention that 50 new clutches are NOT going to solve a leaking Clutch Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder! I would wait and see if the clutch fluid disappears from the master before I go spending a bunch of money on a new clutch. But that's just me. Good luck with this project Jacob. This is an easily repairable issue that almost everyone with a First or Second Gen. has had to deal with. If you are handy with tools, it can be done in a weekend. Keep asking questions, and we will help you get this sorted out. Earl
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  6. @skydoc_17sells an excellent clutch kit with upgraded 1st disk and heavier spring which is real popular among members here. Myself I replaced mine with the carbon fiber kit put out by Barnett (this was before I knew about skydocs kits) both are real good options specially if your pulling a trailer. You will find plenty of good feed back here on the site for both specially skydocs kits. You will also find skydoc a great guy to deal with he stands behind what he sells and wont sell you something he would not trust on his own bike.
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  7. I will call them Monday and say "Hi, this is Jeff from Wisconsin....."
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  8. HIYA VAZ!!! Been a while,, hope all is well.. Rundown on restoring old bikes, at least from my past went something like this: 1. Never spin one up that has been setting unran for more then 5 years without prelubing the top end. By that I mean getting oil over valve train and spinning it up with a drill motor first.. I have seen wayyyy to much cam journal damage by not doing this. 2. Regardless of how things look exterior,, give the fuel tank a very close internal look for rust. Look closely at the roof of the tank with a mirror and pen light. 3. Check the fuel/air system/exhaust closely for mice damage including nest buildup in exhaust. 4. If she has CV carbs pull the slide diaphrams and look for cracks. Fingers are tired Love ya Me
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