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Puc's problem is he can't open his pinky finger to get it on the glass. Maybe having it amputated would solve the problem. Just kidding!

Update #4, So my wife's sister was moved to a care home a couple weeks ago and last week they took her off her feeding tube and so she is once again able to eat. Her voice has not fully returned (though I have to say the way her voice sounds right now has a real soft sexy sound to it). However she seems to be recovering reasonably well and I am sure she will eventually get back that voice that has for so many years struck terror in to many an unprepared poor soul. Her positive signs of recovery are not just good for her but for my wife as well since they are so close and with their Mom and Dad having past on, She is my wife's only remaining direct family member. Thanks all for your continued Prayers and well wishes and hope you all stay safe and never have to go through this.

Nice Puc! Forget the naysayers and haters of the 92. I was in the Army for twelve years, most of that time as a warrant officer and the M-9 was my assigned personal weapon. I have shot M-9’s that had had thousands and thousands of rounds put through them and some were likely older than I was, and not one ever failed to put rounds on target and I can honestly say I never had a malfunction. They are a little big and heavy, and not so glamorous, but they are reliable and accurate.

Go down to your local LEO station and talk to them about getting your prints for the form. Take a copy of the form with you in case they do not have one. They will know if they can get the prints from your hand to the form. Ya know if ya stopped hiding from the chat room we could discuss this properly........

Now that my bucket list Beretta 92a1 is laying here smiling at me while the two of us wait for its factory 22lr conversion kit to come in the mail, the thought occurred to the two of us that I still have not pursued to any real extent getting his (Tony's) Suppressor. I have done some research though and here is what I am pretty sure of thus far: 1. Purchase silencer off Gunbroker and have it shipped to a Class 3 FFL. 2. When FFL calls and says its in, go there and fill out my tax stamp info on a KIOSK and send in the $200 tax stamp money. 3. Wait my 6 to 12 months for approval. 4. Bring home my suppressor when paper work comes back from the ATF.. All that sound about right? Thoughts? Here is one fly in the ointment that I am wondering about.. My hands are shot.. I did have my right hand repaired a while ago but my left hand pinky finger is still pretty much laying in my palm with no way to raise it. There is no way I can open my hand and place it on the KIOSK screen for finger prints. Do any of you know if the option of going to a Police Station and have the finger printing done there the old fashioned way is still an option? I can pry my left pinky up about 1/2 inch so I am almost sure "hard" prints are possible.. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for any and all info concerning shooting on the silent side! Puc

Ronnie's explanation is spot on. The cylinder is over fueled and when it's spun over, it stops dead. Sometimes it will start after that, but the damage is done.

I have tied off the clutch lever with a rope, let sit overnight, and most all the air bled out. Crack the reservoir lid. In the morning, reseal reservoir lid, release rope slowly. squeeze 1 time and hold, release the banjo bolt to get that high point air out.

1st you will not feel the same resistance with a clutch, as you do with brakes. So do not let that difference deceive you. The best way is with the bike in gear note at which point the clutch engages and disengages while operating the clutch lever. Also if the slave is leaking past the seals there will be no outward signs as the fluid would be leaking into the crankcase. The only indicator would be loss of fluid so if there are no outward signs then the a leaking slave is your most likely culprit. Very easy to remove but you got to hold your tongue the right way to get it back in. Here are the steps I recommend to bleed a clutch, If all I have to work with is basic hand tools. Crack the line loose at the master. Before you bottom out snug the line up as you continue to squeeze the handle. Release the handle and continue until you see signs of fluid. ( Sometimes if the master was completely dry such as a new one or after rebuilding, you may have to prime it. You can do this by removing the line completely. cover the hole lightly with you finger and squeeze the handle allowing air and/or brake fluid to escape from under you noting finger. Before releasing the handle clamp your finger tight and slowly release the handle. repeat until most fluid comes out. At this stage it does not need to be completely air free., your just priming the master ). Once you have done this reconnect the line to the master and perform the procedure at the beginning of this step. Connect a clear line to the bleeder screw, after braking it loose and making sure it moves freely, and run it to the bottom of a catch container with a bit of fluid in it. This helps prevent sucking air back into the system and makes it easy to observe for air in the fluid. Crack the bleeder open at the slave and slowly squeeze the handle. when it bottoms out snug up the bleeder and release the handle. Continue until fluid starts to come out of the bleeder ( it does not need to be air free at this point ). As you begin to squeeze the handle crack the bleeder open and then quickly close just before the handle bottoms out while fluid is still coming out (Do not pump the handle). Continue until the exiting fluid is air free. Next squeeze the handle but this time leave the bleeder closed until the handle comes to a stop. Pause and hold for a few seconds, (this allows air to come to the top near the bleeder screw) then quickly open the bleeder and then quickly close it again while a bit of fluid is still coming out just before the handle bottoms out. Again continue until the exiting fluid is air free. Finally return to the master. Squeeze the handle until it bottoms out. Pause and hold for a several seconds ( again this allows for any air in the line to rise to the top of the line at the fitting), then quickly loosen bolt just enough to allow some fluid to escape but then quickly snug up the bolt before the handle bottoms out and while some fluid is still escaping. Repeat until no air spits out. When done fully tighten the bleeder and line retaining bolt. PRECAUTIONS: A)-During the process keep an eye on the fluid in the master and keep it topped up. I recommend not letting it go any lower than 1/3 full because if the master goes dry your back to square one. B)- Cover everything well with rags to protect bike from brake fluid and when bleeding the master at the line use a rag to keep fluid from spraying every where allowing just enough of an opening to allow you to observe the fluid for air. With experience you don't need to look you can hear the difference between when the escaping fluid is air free or if there is air in it. C)- NOTE: during the process you will not note a mention snug the bleeder and banjo bolt. this is because during the process it is not necessary to fully reef them tight. Just be sure to properly tighten them when you are completely done. Finally there are other methods that work well such as using a vacuum tool at the bleeder or pressure bleeding, some even recommend speed bleeders, all of which make the job easier. But as I stated at the beginning, if you are only working with basic tools, these are the steps I recommend I have used this method on the side of the road and never ever had to re-bleed the system afterwards. Hope this all helps Good luck.

Try bleeding the system at the banjo bolt on the master, then finish at the slave. They trap air right there quite often. Make sure no fluid gets on the plastic, it will melt the the body parts.

The hard start referred to is caused by hydro locking the engine. If carb floats stick or leak with the gas left on it will fill the cylinders with gas, then when you try to start it the liquid can’t be compressed so it bends or breaks rods. Gas will also fill the crankcase. If you replace the engine make sure to get the carbs rebuilt and set correctly or you could very well blow the new engine the same way. 1st gens aren’t near as likely to do this since their gas tanks are below the carbs.

I have heard of a couple that have blown. I every case it was tracked down to a hydro lock. not necessarily at the time it blew but you may have recently had a hard start where the starter had a hard time turning it over, this could have started the damage and then while cruising finished it off.

I also found that I did like the MAC and Snapon tools great when I did my turn at working for GM ..Ford ...Chrysler . When I signed up with Cummins and Detroit to keep them running I went back to my old Gray tools , I had put away in the shop ... I never throw anything away , only draw back I found that the old Detroit 6V71 head bolts had no extra room around them . I quit the heavey equipement thing in 1977 . Went back to motorcycles

@luvmy40I want thank for opportunities to get the bike you have up north where it's been snowed in since I first talked about getting it. Bought a 87VR . Wife seen it 13mins. After it was posted. Got it Friday morning after we got off work. He was only 15 miles away from me and no snow. Lol. Had to get it. You wouldn't believe how hard we tried to get up there to get it. Thank you again VID_20210306_105725.mp4

In many cases this is very true yet I have had to replace my 1/2" and smaller Snapon wrenches many times because the open ends keep spreading or the box ends keep splitting open something that never happens with my Husky, Gray or higher end Mastercraft wrenches. One of my favorite brands of wrenches is Gedore. they are thin compared to most wrenches even Snapon yet extremely strong, They are just hard to find. I also refuse to buy any more sockets from Snapon because they always split on me even when I am only using a it with hand tools. Here again I prefer Husky, Gray or higher end Mastercraft tools. Snapon are great looking tools and because they are thinner than other makes may serve the car industry very well but when it comes to Heavy duty work such as the trucking and heavy equipment industry I have found they just don't cut it.

Dang Puc, you're about as bad off as I am. Can't tell you how to get finger prints but I can tell you to enjoy your shooting while you can.

Yeppers,, we are living in some CRAZY times @MonsterBiker,, that for sure.. I read something a while back that was staggering, I read there were over 8 million new gun owners here in the States. Kind of reminded me somewhat, albeit on a much larger scale, of Bow Hunting years ago. When I got into it the Compound had not been introduced and a person pretty much had the deer woods to themselves. Then, a few years after Allen came out with the Speedster owning a bow and hunting deer with them took off. A few years after that though, after many who had jump into the sport and found out there was/is a LOT more to being successful at hunting deer with a bow than a newbie just grabbing a new bow and heading out, all of a sudden compound bows became almost worthless as people exited the hobby. I hunted with a bow for many many years after that using equipment I had picked up DIRT CHEAT (I did one buy out that included Bow/Aluminum Arrows/2 Baker Board tree stands and entire camo outfit for $100). I seriously wonder if sometime in the near future the same thing wont happen to the shooter market.. Seriously Monst,, working with those folks as a Super on a gun range = keep your head down!!

Nice pistols! I have a number of 9mm's but no .45's yet. I work at the local range as an RSO and one of the perks is being able to drool over other peoples' guns. Today, however......all the idiots were out in force. Ground shots galore, the extremely inexperienced trying to teach those with zero experience, guys who just bought their first AR-15 and didn't know how to lock the bolt back.....and when I showed them how a live round came out of the chamber of a gun that was supposedly unloaded......most stressful day I have ever had as an RSO.

I blew the motor in my 08 royal star venture s yesterday, does anyone know where I could get a new one

Yep,, and unless I can find a way to get under there for prints, my silencer plans are disappearing.. The local LEO dept said no way and there is absolutely no chance I can get it done on a KIOSK.. Oh well,, I may have stay LOUD the rest of my life LOL..

What do you guys mean, when you say "Hard Start'. Just curious.