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HEY, I thought I was your driver to drive that Vette to your home???? Or mine if I make a wrong turn at Chicago..... There is also the option that my truck will easily pull that car on a trailer, and being a 6 passenger truck There would easily be room for both you and Tippy.

Puc, There is always room for you and any car you find down here. We are about 45 miles north of Houstons northern limit. We live in Shepherd now, about 15 miles northeast of the house we used to live at. Come on down and we'll show you the real southern hospitality brother!

Don't listen to @Patchor @cowpucJust Replace the bike less hassle

Snowmobile suits work great. That's what I always use in winter riding. I have used both the 2 piece and one piece and both work great. Make sure to squat and that your ankles are still covered while doing so, when trying them on so your sure to have enough leg length when sitting on the bike.

Back in the sixty's I knew a guy that worked for shell research. They would have test cars and run it extremely way past its recommended change intervals and he told me back then already that oil does not wear out it only gets dirty and looses its additives. Back then it was recommended that you change oil filters every second oil change and he said that philosophy was actually backwards that the filter should be changed every so many miles and the oil changed every second or third filter change. Based on what he told me I would change my filters at regular intervals adding oil as needed and replacing my oil once a year. I drive my cars or trucks until the body's are shot and have always got 300,000 miles give or take out of them and never lost an engine. Not that I recommend this practice just saying I got away with it with no ill effects. Now in the case of our motorcycles with wet clutches I fully agree with @cowpucthat you have to consider the wear material from the clutches, specially if your doing a lot of city driving and or doing a lot of low speed slip clutching. I which case I see no advantage to spending the extra money for synthetic, plus as I stated earlier the engine valve train etc runs quieter with dino oil hence my preference for dino over synthetic. On another note when I was fleet manager for beeline carriers I ran Rotella 15W40 in all the trucks. These were 400 hp caterpillar diesels which hauled 48 ft dump trailers from dusty quarries to construction sites so probably one of the worst environments to run an engine in. Our normal practice was to change oil every 20,000 KM. I was also randomly sending oil out for analysis. One thing I noticed was that the test results always came back stating good for 10,000 more km. So I took two trucks and started extending their oil changes. With each oil change on these two trucks I sent out samples. and each time it would come back good for 10,000 km more and each time I would add 5,000 km to the oil change interval. eventually I was up to 45,000 km and the samples were still coming back good for 10,000 km more. After this experiment I extended oil changes to 30,000 km without any ill effects. Considering the fleet had 165 trucks (freightliners and western stars holding roughly 30 litres (10 gallons ) of oil each it resulted in a quite a savings with no ill effects. Again this is just a point of interest and my personal decision. In no way I am I telling anyone to follow my example.

That was timely! I just got everything loosened & ready to pull, but no go. Figured I missed a step in the process and came to the computer to review. Yeah, that throttle cable....

OK So I thought I'd register to bid on the Mecum sitr. The first part was OK, but then they wanted to know what kind of tooth brush I used I said screw it and went else where... Thought I'd get OK'd for the Las Vegas auction, but now I'm gonna keep my millions...

My first car was a '53 Ford 2-door. Kinda in that mint green color. Hated it. After doing some leading and Bondo work I took it down to a local body shop to be painted metallic white. Fords white was a off brown white unlike Chevy's blue white. The painter couldn't find a metallic so he said he had a can of black metallic that he could add to the base. I agreed. What I ended up with was an off white grey in the shade and it would blow your eye-balls out in the sun... I loved it. Always wanted to do another but never had the occasion.. I also did a frame off restoration of a '69 Honda CB 750 sand cast. Did that one myself in white lacquer. You do not want fuel to drip on that stuff... Don't ask me how I know that... 🙂

I had mine done and had a front tire installed, the whole cost was close to 1700 it was the 16000 mile service. Come to find out no the valves did not need to be adjusted. If I recall correctly, Long Haul Paul had his checked at 50,000 and they were fine he hasn't had it done since had over 100,000 on it the last I heard.

I did mine at 15,000 miles. The job is not as bad as you think. The front coil bracket must be removed to remove the front valve cover. I can be a pain to get access to the front screw. I used a 1/4 inch drive ext about 16 inches long and and came down from the top by the handlebars. I put a little tape on hex socket for a tight fit otherwise screw will come off and good luck trying to find it. There is a procedure for draining the tank in the service manual. Follow it. The whole job took me about 8 hrs. Should be alot less next time. A lot of work just to find out the valves did not need adjustment at this time.

As a precursor to this wildly debated opinion that I have lived my motorcycling career by,, most untrained/self taught backyard mechanic/bike builders-restorers-olxd school riders (my self included) have referred to motorcycles with clutches and trannies that share the same oil with their engines crank/valve train have always been referred to as "Unit" constructed,, bikes that have seperate clutch/trannie oil baths from that of the crank/valve train have always been referred to as "Pre-Unit".. At a price in $$$'s, Synthetic Oils have always been promoted as lubes that easily double,, often triple and even x4 the distance in miles between oil changes while maintaining viscosity in the process of doing so.. My hybrid mini-motorhome (we sleep in our Hyundia Ioniq hybrid) was actually spected from Hyundai to use Quaker State 0-20 Full Syn which I have maintained since Trooper was brand new.. Trooper (what we named our mini-motorhome cause he looks like a miniature Michigan State Trooper squad car) is a Pre-Unit, actually a dry clutch DCT with trannie lubed by engine crank lube so not a true Pre-Unit but because the clutch is not sharing lube so the point I am about to make still applies, that always amazes me with how clean/full viscosity the oil is even when doing a 7500 mile CTFW's adventure and swapping oil at end of it.. I would only ever consider swapping in more expensive Full Syn oil into a Pre-Unit bike as, IMHO, the clutch fibers and other clutch contaminents in a Unit bike demand early and regular oil swaps compared to that of a Pre-Unit as the oil soils sooner. Combine that with any form of off-roading or dirty environment operation and/or riding in extreme high tempts and oil swaps can even be needed as early as 1500 miles.. Personally, I monitor my oil condition thru the sight glass (I still think the sight glass idea was actually born out of the need to SEE the oil condition and not so much as an easier way of checking level) for color and have always swapped when dirty.. 3k miles and toss in another round of cheap Walmart or Dollar Store dino 20/50 when riding tempts above 80 degrees has kept all my Unit bikes, including my MK1's very happy thru the years.. I am also one of the few lop eared varmints out there who also generally notice the difference in shifting smoothness and engine quiteness when making the swap too.. Matter of fact,, on my Unit bikes,, another way to know it's oil swap time is when shifting becomes notchy but,, I have often been told I am a tenderfoot wannabe when it comes to biking so consider the source in this advice.. Puc

I could be wrong here but for myself I prefer to run the non-synthetic oil. It my do a better job of lubricating but I find my engine/lifters sound a lot noisier with synthethec. I suspect it has to do with the difference in cushioning effect between Dino oil and synthetic. Just IMHO the engine seems to run quieter with dino oil and like I said I could be way out to lunch on this

I ran Wally Worlds cheap non synthetic "Supertech" in my 1st Gens for 100's of thousands of miles thru the years and was always impressed with the stuff.. Never an issue,, I never had a catastrophic failure on any of them and always ended up getting well over 200k miles out of the bikes before I retired em and this was bikes that either came to me with 2nd gear missing or had the second gear fail while I was riding it.. Of course, as you know,, the loss of 2nd gear failing had absolutely nothing to do with the cheap oil - just saying that cause some reader that knows nothing of the 1st Gen 2nd gear issue may read this and think it was the oils fault.. I LOVED the Wall Mart stuff cause I could ALWAYS find it,, it was dirt cheap, Walmarts always let me swap oil in the parking lot and dump my old oil back in automotive and the non-High Energy weight selections were awesome (20/50 Supertech = PERFECT for desert temps).. I have always followed my own ideas of when to change oils in a wet clutch oil bath unit construction scoot = I swap when the oil gets dirty = not uncommon to do so around 2500 miles,, 1500 if Tip/Tweeks and I been doing a lot of off roading,, so having a Walmart at every corner always worked Great!! Will not surprise me even one tiny little bit to here you state that you are extremely pleased with the stuff after using it for a bit Sky!! Puc