Clutch lever actuating pin (between lever and master cylinder)

[greg_in_london]

I don't know how everyone else's clutch is, but on my Venture, there has always been a fair bit of lever movement to operate the clutch, I have had to top up the cylinder periodically (though it had never become any worse) since buying it eleven years ago and it has been prone to getting bubbles in the line.

 

A couple of months ago I was greasing the pin and checking it for wear when I noticed that the pin (asymmetrical with a shoulder/seal part way down) could be replaced the other way round, thus giving the piston much more movement.

 

Like this the clutch was much better, but it did weep brake fluid. Not drastically, but a couple of months and 4,000 miles later (we did a long Summer trip) the clutch master cylinder was empty. If it gets no worse I'm tempted to keep it as it is, but I'm looking for a rebuild kit.

 

Has anyone else had any reason to play with these ?

[talonsx2]

Very easy fix, just head on down to your local bike shop and buy a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit,(2KW-W0099-00-00). I rebuilt my clutch master cylinder (About $25 as well) a few months ago and I had to go buy a vacuum bleeder to get all the air out :bang head:Best purchase ever made($25.00 Harbor freight). You may also think about changing the bushing (3GM-26455-00-00) that is in the actual handle, this bushing seats the push rod that you flipped over?.... mine was rounded out quite a bit. doing both of these made a huge difference in the mechanical feel and workings of the clutch.

 

Stay safe and keep the rubber onthe road

 

Michael

[Captain Murph]

Like this the clutch was much better, but it did weep brake fluid. Not drastically, but a couple of months and 4,000 miles later (we did a long Summer trip) the clutch master cylinder was empty. If it gets no worse I'm tempted to keep it as it is, but I'm looking for a rebuild kit.

 

While replacing this pin (or swapping out for a less-worn clutch master) might not be a bad idea, the leakage that made the cylinder go empty probably was due to the slave cylinder, not the master.

 

Murph'

[greg_in_london]

I had always suspected the slave cylinder, but the rate at which it lost fluid was so slow that it wasn't worth touching it. The master cylinder leak is getting onto my glove and leaching the dye out over my fingers ... ugh.

[Neil86]

As has been mentioned...the bushing usually is neglected and wears out....giving excessive freeplay and kicking cruise control out.

 

Greg....I would recommend not letting the master cylinder leak....aside from ruining a glove...any drips are attacking the paint and ABS plastic they land on.

[mbrood]

Yep, it sounds like time for a master cylinder rebuild kit... the piston seals should do the trick. Even Kawasaki offers a suitable kit to replace just the lever actuating rod and rubber cup. But it's sounding like the piston is leaking... do the rebuild... you and your gloves will be happy.

 

It's probably also a good time to put in new slave seals... there's just two of them and if you haven't gotten in there... it's really a good time to do so and clean up any corrosion so it doesn't get worse... mine just leaked "a little" and when I got the slave out, the seals were totally broken down, almost like gum rubber, you could crumble it between your fingers.

[GeorgeS]

Due to Age, if you rebuild the Master, I strongly reccomend Replaceing the Slave Also. It will be Corroded Inside. I strongly reccomend Buying a New One.

[Rocket]

Due to Age, if you rebuild the Master, I strongly reccomend Replaceing the Slave Also. It will be Corroded Inside. I strongly reccomend Buying a New One.

 

Also the cost of a new one isn't bad.......... At least over here, not sure about in your location.