89 VR Will not idle lower than 1500 RMP

[Kandaje]

Greetings...

 

This started happening about 1 month ago. It has gotten progressively worse - to this point:

 

Facts:

 

#1 & #2 carbs were out of sync because I played with the Sync screw thinking it was the idle speed screw.

 

Finally Synced them, and played with the idle speed screw. A week Ago - It WOULD Idle at 1000 rpm when warm. It hasn't been run since last friday - It's now Wednesday.

 

Over the summer - The cotten-wood trees have deposited a hideous amount of Fuzz that has been a real pain. It gets everywhere...

 

It rained 2 days ago, and the bike was outside, uncovered.

 

-

 

Today was a rather nice day - I went out to go for a ride this morning, and basicly spent the entire day attempting to actualy get the bike (89 VR) running...

 

Symptoms:

 

It will now - NOT idle at anything less than 1500 rpm. At Idle (like at a light) there is an audible 'click' Where the tach will drop to 0 rpm, the bike will chug slower and slower - then eventualy, (if the throttle isn't blipped) Die...

 

When it is running - It runs well! There is NO problem at any speed above Idle.

 

The Tach will NOT register anything less than about 1500rpm. In other words -

 

I have to keep the idle set a bit high, because it will just die - the tach just drops to 0 if I set it to less than that.

 

What can cause this?

 

Today I tore off the entire fairing, and checked all the wiring, all vacume tubes, spark plugs, etc...

 

I synced the carbs - and finally got it running. It ran well - a lot more pep than it was doing a week ago - but every time I came to a light - it would idle at 1500, then - an audible click - and it would suddenly drop to 0 on the tach and a few seconds later - it would sputter out and die.

 

It starts, as long as I REV it when it catches...

 

But it won't idle correctly. I can play with the idle screw all I want - but If I adjust it down to normal idle - all the above is guarenteed to happen.

 

 

So what can cause this?

[Freebird]

Sure sounds like something is still wet. Higher RPMs mean higher voltage. Could be a coil or it could be tha the TCI has moisture in it. Several people here have removed them and put them in the oven to dry them out and solved such problems.

[Marcarl]

Check your air filter to make sure it is clean, and then run seafoam through it. I would make it a good strong mix, say a whole can to half a tank of gas and give it a few days to work it's way through any muck in the carbs.

[BradT]

run seafoam through it. I would make it a good strong mix, say a whole can to half a tank of gas and give it a few days to work it's way through any muck in the carbs.

 

Agree here, could be junk in the carbs, besides it won't hurt if it is something else.

 

Brad

[pegscraper]

Could you have missed a vacuum leak somewhere when you checked the lines? It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Get a big enough vacuum leak and the engine won't idle and will be hard to start.

[CrazyHorse]

You sure the pilot fuel jets arent plugged? They are responsible for idle. Mine were plugged up bad and it would not idle at all had to keep on the throttle to keep it running. If I remember right it was about 1500 rpms just to get it to run. 1500 rpms might be the point were the carb transitions to other fuel jets Mbrood might know. These tiny jets are prone to plugging. Sea foam didnt help they were too plugged. Mine were so bad I had to do a through cleaning job on the carbs had to use a wire bristle to poke through the the pilot jets to unclog them then the bike ran fine. I may not be right but its what I had to do to get mine to run right. I would try Marcarls strong Seafoam mix and see what happens. If all else fails I would look into a serious carb cleaning totally taking them apart.

Edited September 4, 2008 by CrazyHorse

[Gearhead]

The key info is the tach dropping to zero while the engine is still running - it's electrical. I'd bet dollars to donuts it's in the wiring from the pickup coils to the TCI, or in the TCI itself. As Don said, water exacerbates those problems. It's happened to me twice, two different bikes, both water-induced. On the Virago there was bad insulation on the wires coming out of the LH case cover. On the Venture it was corrosion on the TCI connectors under the battery.

 

Jeremy

[Kandaje]

Greetings...

 

The key info is the tach dropping to zero while the engine is still running - it's electrical. I'd bet dollars to donuts it's in the wiring from the pickup coils to the TCI, or in the TCI itself. As Don said, water exacerbates those problems. It's happened to me twice, two different bikes, both water-induced. On the Virago there was bad insulation on the wires coming out of the LH case cover. On the Venture it was corrosion on the TCI connectors under the battery.

 

Jeremy

 

 

That's my idea too - The flakey Tach - that's why I tore the fairing off and started checking wires. It's Not a vacume problem. I'm pretty certain of that. And while it's possible it could be a jet problem - I'm thinking it's quite possible that cottenwood fuzz got into the gas tank - and somehow managed to work it's way into the engine. The stuff was particularily nasty this year! All summer long! Guess I'll have to tear off the fuel filter and see if it's clogged...

 

I actually use seafoam a lot - I go through maybe a can a month anyway. But I think I will try the heavy concentrate, in addition to pouring it straight into the intakes and letting it sit for a day...

 

One other detail - I can actually get it to idle correctly if I wildly unbalance the sync of #1 and #2.

 

We have really LOW relative humidity around here. Though this summer has been unbearably humid. Our normal is usually around 17% relative humidity, but it's been closer to averaging 40% nearly the entire summer. Sweltering - as most people have swamp coolers - and they won't work above 35%!!

 

So I guess I'll tear into the TCI this weekend and check it out...

 

Thanks for the ideas Guys!

[CrazyHorse]

Greetings...

 

 

 

 

That's my idea too - The flakey Tach - that's why I tore the fairing off and started checking wires. It's Not a vacume problem. I'm pretty certain of that. And while it's possible it could be a jet problem - I'm thinking it's quite possible that cottenwood fuzz got into the gas tank - and somehow managed to work it's way into the engine. The stuff was particularily nasty this year! All summer long! Guess I'll have to tear off the fuel filter and see if it's clogged...

 

I actually use seafoam a lot - I go through maybe a can a month anyway. But I think I will try the heavy concentrate, in addition to pouring it straight into the intakes and letting it sit for a day...

 

One other detail - I can actually get it to idle correctly if I wildly unbalance the sync of #1 and #2.

 

We have really LOW relative humidity around here. Though this summer has been unbearably humid. Our normal is usually around 17% relative humidity, but it's been closer to averaging 40% nearly the entire summer. Sweltering - as most people have swamp coolers - and they won't work above 35%!!

 

So I guess I'll tear into the TCI this weekend and check it out...

 

Thanks for the ideas Guys!

 

That would go right to the cylinders I'd be careful with that and not to much or youll lo hydraulic lock your pistons. I'd try carb spray instead I'd only pour it into the cylinders if it was running.

[Marcarl]

Just for information, because I had this issue at one time:

 

#1 cylinder is at the rear left side when sitting on the bike

#2 is left side front

#3 is right side rear

#4 is right side front

 

Sync # 1 to #2 first

then sync # 3 to #4

then sync #4 to # 2

You might have to go back and start from scratch. Close all sync screws so that all the butterflys are closed, you'll have to look into the carbs to see this happen, You'll want them to be just closed, try not to turn the screws more than you have to to close them.

 

do # 2 first with the idle ajustment screw

then #4

then #3

then# 1

This is in reverse order from how you set the sync.

 

Now fire up the scoot and adjust idle to around 1000 and then start the syncing process in proper order. You'll find that to start with, the idle screw will be turned in quite a ways and as you ajust the sync you'll have to turn it back to keep the idle steady.

Maybe this will help.

[Dano]

Just for information, because I had this issue at one time:

 

#1 cylinder is at the rear left side when sitting on the bike

#2 is left side front

#3 is right side rear

#4 is right side front

 

Sync # 1 to #2 first

then sync # 3 to #4

then sync #4 to # 2

You might have to go back and start from scratch. Close all sync screws so that all the butterflys are closed, you'll have to look into the carbs to see this happen, You'll want them to be just closed, try not to turn the screws more than you have to to close them.

 

do # 2 first with the idle ajustment screw

then #4

then #3

then# 1

This is in reverse order from how you set the sync.

 

Now fire up the scoot and adjust idle to around 1000 and then start the syncing process in proper order. You'll find that to start with, the idle screw will be turned in quite a ways and as you ajust the sync you'll have to turn it back to keep the idle steady.

Maybe this will help.

 

I've never tried it that way before, Carl, I'm definately gonna do that this weekend. Might be why mines not running right off of idle.

 

Dan

[Condor]

Now fire up the scoot and adjust idle to around 1000 and then start the syncing process in proper order. You'll find that to start with, the idle screw will be turned in quite a ways and as you ajust the sync you'll have to turn it back to keep the idle steady.

Maybe this will help.

 

Yep good advise Carl. Been there done that.