New tire, caliper now over-heating....

[FutureVentures]

Ok, something isn't right, obviously.

 

Replaced my front tire with a WWW Maxxis Classic, by myself with a buddy's help. That, went ok.

 

However, when reinstalling the left caliper, the top bolt would not thread in properly all the way. May need to tap it out as it appears to be stripping a bit.

 

So, had the bottom bolt in and the top in 3/4 of the way.

 

The wheel was snug when rotated (on the jack) and you could hear the calipers rubbing, thought that was normal.

 

However, I rode about 15 miles, brakes working fine but, the left caliper was VERY hot to the touch, as was the rotor. Obviously, I won't be riding more till I fix this.

 

Is it just the bolt not being fully secured or, do I have something else wrong?

 

Should the wheel spin freely while on jack or is some audible rubbing normal?

 

Thanks.

[RedRider]

The wheel should spin freely on the jack. I suspect the caliper is cocked relative to the rotor and is rubbing on one end of the pads. This needs to be fixed before riding. After you get the caliper mounting fixed, check for a warped rotor. Excess heat can cause the rotors to warp causing pulsations and potential lockup of the front wheel in hard braking.

 

Good luck.

 

RR

[Squidley]

Check and make sure that your pads are in correctly, yes they can be put in wrong...dont ask how I know that

and yes there is some soft noise after installation until the caliper centers itself out.

[Condor]

Somethings dragging somewhere, but the first thing you need to address is that caliper bolt. 3/4 of the way in ain't gonna get it. It might be just cross threaded. When I bought my first VR one of the calipers had stripped threads. Ended up replacing it with another off Ebay back when you could still buy 'm cheap..... I think once you get the caliper on, and aligned right, your dragging/heat problem will go away. New pads will always drag a bit until they seat into the rotor.

I might also add that when mounting the calipers never tighten down one bolt and then go to the other. Leave the first one loose until you get the second started.

[skydoc_17]

Another thing you will need to check is the caliper itself. If any of the pistons don't move freely when you push on them, then it's rebuild/replacement time for that caliper. A sticking caliper will take out a rotor in short order on the VR.

Ride Safe,

Earl

[FutureVentures]

Yeah I agree, I won't be riding it till I fix the issue.

First, I'm going to simply try reinstalling the pads, in the highly unlikely event I installed them improperly.

 

Then, I'm going to retap the threads for the top bolt and hope that works. Dang, long ride coming up starting Sat., don't need this stress!

 

Thanks for the input guys, most helpful.

[GeorgeS]

Right side of Axel: --- Did you Install that Thick Washer in the Correct Position ?????? Double check that.

[mm482]

Make sure the brake fluid level is correct. If the master cylinder is too full, the calipers can not release.

Earl

[Squidley]

Right side of Axel: --- Did you Install that Thick Washer in the Correct Position ?????? Double check that.

 

 

Front wheel George....but thats great info for doing the rear

[FutureVentures]

Make sure the brake fluid level is correct. If the master cylinder is too full, the calipers can not release.

 

Earl

 

Ya know, I've noticed that the master cylinder always read over full but stupidly, thought that was normal.

 

Soooo, simply drain a little fluid from the bleeder valve thing?

[GeorgeS]

Front wheel George....but thats great info for doing the rear

 

Sorry, missed that, was to early in the morning --- ( and I have to admit, I did install that washer in the wrong position last year, and yes, the Brake did Drag !! )

 

[RedRider]

Ya know, I've noticed that the master cylinder always read over full but stupidly, thought that was normal.

 

Soooo, simply drain a little fluid from the bleeder valve thing?

 

That's one way. Or you can open the top of the master reservoir and, using a straw, pull some out. Don't suck on the straw. Brake fluid tastes awful (don't ask how I know). Just put your finger over the end and take some out a little at a time.

 

Good luck.

 

RR

[mm482]

Be careful not to get brake fluid on the paint!

Earl

[GigaWhiskey]

Be careful not to get brake fluid on the paint!

 

Earl

 

 

Been there, done that, suffering the consequences! I got some paint bubbles in a couple lines and watch out for those buttons on the radio, they will shoot straight out. Made me jump when they did and I had to by another radio.

[FutureVentures]

That's one way. Or you can open the top of the master reservoir and, using a straw, pull some out. Don't suck on the straw. Brake fluid tastes awful (don't ask how I know). Just put your finger over the end and take some out a little at a time.

 

Good luck.

 

RR

 

Yeah duh, that would be a lot easier, eh? Taught that trick to my kids with their milk years ago. Big mistake.

Never thought it would have a practical application!

 

Will do tonight, thanks again!

[Squidley]

I have to admit, I did install that washer in the wrong position last year, and yes, the Brake did Drag !!

 

 

Yep....I'm part of that club too

[BradT]

Sorry, missed that, was to early in the morning --- ( and I have to admit, I did install that washer in the wrong position last year, and yes, the Brake did Drag !! )

 

 

How did you get it together. I too started doing this wrong but could not even bolt up the caliper, nothing lined up.

 

BRad

[FutureVentures]

Yippee, re tapped the hole in the front caliper, bolt threaded in perfectly!

 

Caliper now rest/floats as it should and there is NO more over-heating!

 

 

 

Also drained excess brake fluid from main reservoir. Much better.

 

Thanks to all for the help!

[mm482]

That's good news.

 

Earl:parrots: