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Posted

Hey everyone, I am relocating the TCI on top of the Air Box. My ride an 89 Venture. I rerouted the wires to allow for enough clearance, but I cannot get enough clearance to comfortably put the false tank back on without real stressing the false tank. The best fit I have gotten so far is the TCI sitting atop the airbox, ear touching the battery ( I have a little extra room in the batter box because I installed the Odesy), connectors facing the left side fairing (The AM-FM Side).

 

If I cut the ears off the box, I think I will have it. However, I am reluctant to do this, unless I am going to be successful in my relocation. HELP anyone who has done this.

Posted (edited)

dumb newbie question, why relocate it? do they get too much heat at the stock location? (by the way, where is the stock location?)

Edited by bmannon
Posted

I have relocated several of them and I didn't cut anything off. I routed the wires to the left of the airbox and then ran a screw right through the stock ear and into the top of the airbox. The wires were a bit tight but worked well, never had an issue with the faux cover setting on, I'll see if I can drum up some pics, I know I took some of it.

Posted (edited)

Here's a shot of one install with ears... in this case you can even tilt the front up and let the front ear rest on the battery... velcro sounds good but adds just that LITTLE extra height that interferes. Note the boost sensor is also moved up...

 

Both of those pesky things are bolted to the under section of the plate that mounts the coils... under and forward of the battery tray. They are accessed by reaching just above the front head valve cover.

 

http://bergall.org/temp/venture/tci.jpg

Edited by mbrood
Posted
dumb newbie question, why relocate it? do they get too much heat at the stock location? (by the way, where is the stock location?)

 

Haven't seen an answer here yet. More than one of us would like to know. There must be some purpose in it.

Posted

As can be seen in kbran's photos... They DO get a bit warm around the final amps but the silly things have two vent holes in the bottom so that a heavy rain or a pressure wash throws moisture inside, then they act up and run poor (if at all) until you pull them, toss 'em in an oven (200 degrees please) for an hour or so to "bake them out"... I put some thin wetsuit material inside to let it "breath" but keep out the water.

 

Since they are so "nicely" placed up under the tray the coils sit on... it's a flat PAIN to get to, so once a guy DOES get it out, it's real tempting to put it up top where rain and spray can't get to it. Plus it's easier to get to the connections up there and makes any "swap out" a breeze.

 

There's also tiny holes in the boost sensor to get ambient air pressure but they don't seem as easily affected.

Posted

I'd like to add that since they are right under the battery, they are susceptible to acid getting on the connectors, causing corrosion and poor contact. That happened with mine. As long as everything is in order, the battery tray is sound with it's drain connected, that should not happen, but you know, stuff happens. Installing an AGM battery should end this problem.

 

Jeremy

Posted
As can be seen in kbran's photos... They DO get a bit warm around the final amps but the silly things have two vent holes in the bottom so that a heavy rain or a pressure wash throws moisture inside, then they act up and run poor (if at all) until you pull them, toss 'em in an oven (200 degrees please) for an hour or so to "bake them out"... I put some thin wetsuit material inside to let it "breath" but keep out the water.

 

Since they are so "nicely" placed up under the tray the coils sit on... it's a flat PAIN to get to, so once a guy DOES get it out, it's real tempting to put it up top where rain and spray can't get to it. Plus it's easier to get to the connections up there and makes any "swap out" a breeze.

 

There's also tiny holes in the boost sensor to get ambient air pressure but they don't seem as easily affected.

 

thanks for the reply, now it makes sense. one more question, what does the boost sensor do? my V-Max had one but I figured it had something to do with the V-Boost, but since a Venture doesnt have that feature I guess I was wrong. So what is it for?

Posted

The Boost Sensor is in Fact a Vacuum Sensor. It senses the Vacuum on the #2 Cylinder just like the Thing on the Vmax. The Sensor emits a Voltage which is used from the TCI/CDI to advance the Spark.

Posted
The Boost Sensor is in Fact a Vacuum Sensor. It senses the Vacuum on the #2 Cylinder just like the Thing on the Vmax. The Sensor emits a Voltage which is used from the TCI/CDI to advance the Spark.

 

Got ya! So it is kinda like a vacuum advance in an old school car distributor.

Posted

Correct:

 

Also, do the dry out proceedure, and open the box, and resolder the connections to the Circuit Board. They turn into " Cold Solder Joints " and also crack, creating high resiatance connections. This will start causeing missfireing.

 

Also, these TCI's are expensive, and hard to come bye. If you are planning any long trips, its good to carry a spare. And moveing the item to the top of the Air Box, makes for Easy Maintenance " On the Road " .

  • 9 months later...
Posted

One detail that eludes me here. Can the air box stay put while you do this work or does it have to be re & re'd to do the TCI move ?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Posted
The Boost Sensor is in Fact a Vacuum Sensor. It senses the Vacuum on the #2 Cylinder just like the Thing on the Vmax. The Sensor emits a Voltage which is used from the TCI/CDI to advance the Spark.

 

Yah!! It is a fancy name for a regular MAP sensor, or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor to set the spark advance wqhere it is needed to be. It gives a control voltage proportional to the amount of vacuum to let the TCI know how much or little to advance the spark...

Posted
One detail that eludes me here. Can the air box stay put while you do this work or does it have to be re & re'd to do the TCI move ?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

 

It is a lot easier to get to the TCI with the airbox off. Otherwise you would have to remove both upper fairings.

RandyA

Posted

I had my air box off once. Putting it back on is such a PITA that I decided not to do it again unless absolutely necessary.

 

I've also had the fairings off, didn't like that much either. Resolved never to bother those 25 y.o. mounting tabs again unless it couldn't be helped.

 

No wonder people move the TCI up top. :mad: Wish I had done that last time I had things apart.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Brian H.

Posted

You can now carry a " spare " TCI, on long trips. When you are crossing Neveda on Highway 50, and your TCI goes south, Its now very easy to change,

Posted
Yah!! It is a fancy name for a regular MAP sensor, or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor to set the spark advance wqhere it is needed to be. It gives a control voltage proportional to the amount of vacuum to let the TCI know how much or little to advance the spark...

 

 

Well Bob i wouldn't use "MAP" Sensor. Because somebody would think we'Re talking EFI here ...

 

 

But you're right, it IS a MAP Sensor.

Posted

To me, Boost Sensor and MAP sensor are both fancy names for vacuum sensor, since the common terminology is "manifold vacuum". However, MAP is probably technically most correct :whistling: :)

 

You can now carry a " spare " TCI, on long trips. When you are crossing Neveda on Highway 50, and your TCI goes south, Its now very easy to change,

 

George, you recommend carrying a spare of everything! When you go on the road, where do you put your wife or your luggage??? What sort of tires to you run to carry all that weight?? :think: :)

 

Jeremy

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