pads

[Pappa Bear]

I have a 89 VR, want to replace brake pads front and rear. Where should I get the pads and do I need to do anything to the rotors before the install

[Squeeze]

I recommend EBC HH Pads and other than checking the Rotors for wear and Cracks, there's nothing to do on them.

[Squidley]

I recommend EBC HH Pads and other than checking the Rotors for wear and Cracks, there's nothing to do on them.

 

I agree with Lutz on this, all I run is the EBC HH pads

[Squeeze]

I agree with Lutz on this, all I run is the EBC HH pads

 

 

Brad, i have to add a big "BUT" here.

 

If one is feeling the rear Brake on a 2Gen as sensitive or too sensitive, he'd better stay away from the HH Pads and use the standard organic EBC Pads instead. These HH Pads really bite and with the reported rear Wheel Lockup's it may be better to go with the less agressive Friction Material on the rear.

[Squidley]

Brad, i have to add a big "BUT" here.

 

If one is feeling the rear Brake on a 2Gen as sensitive or too sensitive, he'd better stay away from the HH Pads and use the standard organic EBC Pads instead. These HH Pads really bite and with the reported rear Wheel Lockup's it may be better to go with the less agressive Friction Material on the rear.

 

 

That is a good footnote Lutz, and I do agree with your logic on it. My only real issue with going to an organic pad is that they wear out so fast it isn't even funny. That may be the price we have to pay though

[bongobobny]

The only thing I can think of adding is to make sure the calipers are not hanging up. With the wheel off the ground, just firmly press the appropriate brake and release. The wheel should spin reasonably freely after releasing the brake. It may be initially a little tight until the wheel starts to turn...

[Guest eyehook]

I am doing the brakes on my 86VR and I noticed a lot of gunk on the caliper pistons but no leakage just dry road scum so I took them apart and polished them with jewelers rouge cleaned the caliper body checked the seals for any damage and reassembled.I think that since I will be pushing the pistons back into the bore with new pads it is a good idea to make sure there is a clean surface riding on the seals.Sound good?If you have the change available J.C.Whitney has EBC rotors for $123.99 no tax no shipping.I went with the organic pad since I am used to them.One of the cycle rags I was reading said to put a chamfer on the leading edge of the pads.Anyone have any feedback on that?

Ride Safe,

Eyehook

[Squeeze]

That is a good footnote Lutz, and I do agree with your logic on it. My only real issue with going to an organic pad is that they wear out so fast it isn't even funny. That may be the price we have to pay though

 

You can carry a spare Set and change it somewhere down the Road. It's a 15 Minutes Job and needs not that much Tools to get it done.

 

But, if the Riders would start to use the front Brake a Lot more than the rear, the wear on the rear Pads would go down dramatically. It just makes no sense to operate mostly on the rear Brakes, when the best what you can get out of it is not more than 20 Percent of the overall Brake Performance of the Bike. And when the some Riders would update their front Brakes with R1/R6/FJR Calipers and the fitting Mastercylinder, i'd be in Heaven, knowing my fellow Members have the best possible Performance and Equipment for slim Bucks. Just one time Investment in Safety Blue instead of Safety Chrome would do the Trick.

Edited August 18, 2008 by Squeeze

[Squidley]

Good point Lutz,I know that I use it all when I'm stopping, including the engine. The front brakes are 60% of your braking power, I know guys that dont use them at all

 

Your right about changing them too, can be done on the road in about 15 minutes

Eyehook,

I have done the chamfer on the brake edges, seems to keep them a bit more quiet. As far as performance, I'm not sure if it helps anything.