stebel horn

[Sideoftheroad]

yeah, I know been beaten to death. I searched several posts and still can't find the answer.

 

If I were to mount it on the brake side of the bike, I can use an L bracket and tie into a pink and brown wire on 2 relay posts

 

If I were to mount it in the fairing (which is how so far I have chosen to do), one relay post still goes to the pink wire, but not sure about the other wire. If there is a brown wire in the fairing, please let me know where. Any other options?

 

A. Pink horn wire goes to RELAY POST 85.

B. Brown horn wire goes to Relay Post 86.

C. Connect one end of a wire to Relay Post 30 and the other end to the Hot side,+, of the compressor

D. Connect end of your 20 amp Fused line to Relay Post 87 and the other end to the Hot Post,+, of your Battery.

E. Connect the negative,-, on compressor to ground or neg,-, post on battery

 

Also I have been reading about the feedback issue. Has anyone that has mounted it in the fairing still had the feedback issue? I am considering getting a seperate button and just wiring it seperately from the stock button if that will eliminate any feedback issue.

 

From what I have understood the closer to the battery you install the fuse, the better off you are. Anyone else have this same understanding?

 

Thanks.

[Bubber]

I understand just like you said.

Mine is where the old horn was so no feed back.

 

Fuse is within 5" of Battery.

 

Only thing is when I was on my trip I had to use it and for some reason it sounded like a strangled goose. I just changed out the relay to a heavy duty relay and it isbetter but not as good as it was when first installed. Next step is to check both mounting bracket and battery post cor good contact.

 

Is there a reason you want the horn in the fairing? Maybe I should consider it also.

 

Steve

aka Bubber

Edited August 14, 2008 by Bubber

[SaltyDawg]

As long as the fuse is before the relay you should have no problems. The main idea is to have the fuse before the first electrical component, in this case it's the relay. Distance from the battery is not a major problem.

 

I have never heard of the closer to the battery the better you are with the fuse. It does not matter where the fuse is in the power circuit as long as it is IN the power circuit.

 

CB radios have them on the power wire, usually within 10 inches of the radio, some radios have the fuse in the radio itself.

[Sideoftheroad]

Is there a reason you want the horn in the fairing?

 

Steve,

No real reason besides an alternate location.

[Dano]

A + B are correct. Feed fused battery feed to #30 (Use at LEAST a 16 guage wire for this) and the feed to the horn off of #87 (also use 16 guage wire here, too). Ground wire can attach anywhere to the frame.

Use the 16 guage wire because you have a 12v DC motor which eats up a LOT of current (amperage) when first starting (hence, the use of the relay). It will work better and last longer with the larger size wire.

 

Dan

[KiteSquid]

I would recommend grounding back at the point on the bike that the battery ground connects at, in an attempt to keep ground loops to a minimum. I did.

[Sideoftheroad]

So here is what I ended up doing. I have connectors going to both the positive and negative battery terminals (yes 2 seperate wires, just not giving all the details on this wire to this connection point, etc...).

 

Tied into the pink wire inside the fairing and there is another 4 wire connector inside the fairing that has a brown wire. I followed the wiring schematic and found the brown stock horn wires ties into this wire. I can't remember the name of the connector that had the brown wire. For some reason the brake switch comes to mind.

 

So got it all hooked up and hit the button. Yippeeee. Works perfectly. It is funny though. If I barely tap the horn button, you can hear the stebel horn vibrate the fairing. If I hit the button and hold it, it is music to my ears? Must be pretty cramped quarters in there. At least the fairing went back on smoothly w/out a hitch.

 

So far no feedback issue either. Some people have said it was only when they use the cb and some have said it happens when they use the radio. No radio issues whether using speakers or helmet headset. I can't use my cb at the moment so I don't know on that part yet.

 

I did use 16 gauge wiring. Unless I have some 20 guage, that is the only wiring I have.

 

Thanks everyone.

[Sideoftheroad]

A + B are correct. Feed fused battery feed to #30 (Use at LEAST a 16 guage wire for this) and the feed to the horn off of #87 (also use 16 guage wire here, too). Ground wire can attach anywhere to the frame.

Use the 16 guage wire because you have a 12v DC motor which eats up a LOT of current (amperage) when first starting (hence, the use of the relay). It will work better and last longer with the larger size wire.

 

Dan

 

Just caught something. I have another post about battery drainage issue. Took off stebel horn and no more problems (at least not today).

 

IF I wire it like I 1st posted (instead of how you suggested flipping #30 & #87, will I get power to the horn and drain the battery at the same time.

 

Thanks

 

Jerry.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26488

[Dano]

If you run your main power thru the relay, you cannot drain the battery thru the horn. I believe stock wiring has a hot going to the horn and they are switching the ground. If the coil in the horn is going bad, it can leak current to ground enuff to drain the battery but not enuff to "honk" the horn. I switched the 30 & 87 leads, because on DC voltage, there is a large arc when you break contacts, this arrangement will help lessen that effect (years of doing motor controls taught me that).

Another thought, and this goes to theory that maybe GeorgeS or some of the other "thinkheads" can add to. With a hot going to the coil constantly, but no ground connection, is it possible that coil saturation is happening and draining power? My thinking says no, but anything is possible.

Another way to check is to wire a small DC ammeter (maybe 10 amp?) in series with the battery (do NOT start bike with ammeter in circuit, could blow!). If there is current showing on the meter with the key off, start removing fuses till you find the circuit that the current is flowing through. Check this circuit for bare wires, bad coils or anything else that is pulling power.

[OutKast]

Stebel assembly drawing on thier website shows battery to #30, horn from #87.

 

Post Picture of the horn mounted inside fairing, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!

[flb_78]

I have never heard of the closer to the battery the better you are with the fuse. It does not matter where the fuse is in the power circuit as long as it is IN the power circuit.

 

Aftermarket equipment should have the fuse as close to the battery as possible in case the wire coming off the battery should become shorted to ground. If the fuse is next to the horn in the fairing and the wire were to short, then that entire wire will become an 8 foot long heating coil and most likely melt every wire and plastic piece it comes in contact with, not to mention the battery may overheat and either leak or possibly even explode.

[Squeeze]

If you run your main power thru the relay, you cannot drain the battery thru the horn. I believe stock wiring has a hot going to the horn and they are switching the ground. If the coil in the horn is going bad, it can leak current to ground enuff to drain the battery but not enuff to "honk" the horn. I switched the 30 & 87 leads, because on DC voltage, there is a large arc when you break contacts, this arrangement will help lessen that effect (years of doing motor controls taught me that).

Another thought, and this goes to theory that maybe GeorgeS or some of the other "thinkheads" can add to. With a hot going to the coil constantly, but no ground connection, is it possible that coil saturation is happening and draining power? My thinking says no, but anything is possible.

Another way to check is to wire a small DC ammeter (maybe 10 amp?) in series with the battery (do NOT start bike with ammeter in circuit, could blow!). If there is current showing on the meter with the key off, start removing fuses till you find the circuit that the current is flowing through. Check this circuit for bare wires, bad coils or anything else that is pulling power.

 

Changing the Leads of 30 and 87 will have no Effect on the Function or the Wear of the Contacs. For a Saturation, there has to be a Current flowing which is not the Case under normal Circumstances. Only Thing which can happen is either your Theory of the Coil in a standard Horn is damaged and drawing Current through this Damage or at a Lot minor Rate the Diode inside the Battery(for preventing reverse Induction, don't know the english Term) is damaged and is drawing Current but not enough to make the Relay operate the Contact.

 

 

You're right about the stock Wireing is the negative(ground) switched. This also applies to the Brakelight Switches and a Lot of other Items. That's just to have not that much "hot" switched Wires in the Harness. That's brack from the Times where Insulation over the Wires was a Problem.