Headlight lamp replacement.....

[Semi-retired]

Dear Owner's Manual: I know you say simply, "If the headlight bulb burns out, replace it as follows. 1. Disconnect the headlight coupler and then remove the headlight bulb cover."

2. Remove the headlight bulb holder by turning it counterclockwise and then remove the defective bulb."

 

Excuse me sir.........I'm stuck back at HOW THE HECK DO I GET AT THE HEADLIGHT COUPLER!?!

 

Anyone? Do I need to remove the fairing? Or just that one allen screw on the headlight chrome trim ring? (I tried that........and nothing else seems to want to pop off.) Or do I hire a tiny little person with tiny little hands, to reach in behind the fairing, in front of the steering head?

 

Tips?

[SteveP]

You might want to take a look at this thread:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=82295

 

I had my fairing split (for other reasons) when I swapped out my bulb, so it wasn't an issure for me.

[Semi-retired]

Thanks, Steve.

 

Looks like the gang is divided on whether or not to crack 'er open. I'm planning on putting in a headlight modulator and also replace the second horn (which I think is located in there as well), so perhaps I'll pop open the fairing and do a clean sweep while I'm in there.

 

Thanks again for the thread...interesting comments.

 

Mike

 

You might want to take a look at this thread:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=82295

 

I had my fairing split (for other reasons) when I swapped out my bulb, so it wasn't an issure for me.

[Gary N.]

Mike,

If you're looking for the second horn you won't find it behind the top fairing. It's behind the lower fairing on the left side (sitting on the bike).

[Semi-retired]

Right, Gary, thanks. I just realized that after reading the headlight replacement thread from Steve.

 

Yet another Tupperware project!!

 

m

 

Mike,

If you're looking for the second horn you won't find it behind the top fairing. It's behind the lower fairing on the left side (sitting on the bike).

[az1103]

The fairing must be split to change bulb. If you turn the handlebar to the right and try to stick your hand through, you will be blocked by the adjustment knob. If you do it from the right you will be blocked by a cable and a harness.

Even after you split the fairing you will need to undo all three screws holding the headlight to get at the bulb... Sorry, but it's not a 15 minute job....

[rek58]

When I changed my bulb, went through the same thing with the adjustment knob. Guess what? It slides off very easily, just like the knob on a stove. Pull it off and you'll pick up a little more room. I've got large hands and I was able to get in there and do the change a lot easier, without having to split the fairing.

[Semi-retired]

Thanks for the input, Rob.

 

My wife's hands are half the size of mine...AND she's somewhat mechanically inclined....so it sounds like she should be able to get in there and do the deed.

 

By the way, (checked your profile)......I'm right there with you on the golf and Scotch.

 

Perhaps it's a biker thing?

 

Thanks again,

Mike

 

When I changed my bulb, went through the same thing with the adjustment knob. Guess what? It slides off very easily, just like the knob on a stove. Pull it off and you'll pick up a little more room. I've got large hands and I was able to get in there and do the change a lot easier, without having to split the fairing.

Edited August 13, 2008 by Semi-retired

[rek58]

Hope the hint was helpful. They definitely didn't make it an easy change out item, when it really should be. But maybe it was the last thing they worked on when designing.

[Roadhand]

You can replace the bulb by turning the bars to the right and reaching into the bulb.

It does take a little doing but it can (and has) been done.

I removed the bulb with using a pair of needle nose pliers and my wife (much smaller hands) reached in and snapped it back in place.

[Semi-retired]

Took an initial try to get at the headlamp last night, with no luck. Have to take another run at it today...in daylight.

 

Reeeeally hoping not to have to split that fairing and possibly snap all the tabs on my windscreen chrome trim (as everyone warns can happen!)

 

Let's see now: difficult headlamp replacement....wimpy horns.... high center of gravity....I'm accumulating quite a list of design shortcomings that must have been "the last thing they worked on"! :-)

 

Hope the hint was helpful. They definitely didn't make it an easy change out item, when it really should be. But maybe it was the last thing they worked on when designing.

[RedRider]

If you have a lift, it makes it much easier to get in there. Kind of like how it is easier to reach up into a cabinet to get the bottle of scotch than to reach down into the undercounter cabinet to get the ice bucket.

 

BTW, splitting the fairing is really easy. Takes just a few minutes. However, you don't need to do it to change the bulb.

 

As for the other issues,

 

1) Whimpy horn - replace with a Stebel horn. Costs about $70 including a wiring harness (you can make your own if you like). Carbon One makes a bracket that allows the horn to mount easily into the location of the current horn. There are a couple of other tips for this install which we can impart when you are ready to do this.

 

2) High Center of Gravity - Levelling links seem to help. They slightly change the slope of the bike which helps tremendously with the low speed handling. If you are vertically chanllenged, you can accomplish the same with going to a narrower front tire. It will still be somewhat top heavy, but will handle much better at slow speeds.

 

Enjoy.

 

RR

[Seaking]

 

BTW, splitting the fairing is really easy. Takes just a few minutes. However, you don't need to do it to change the bulb.

 

As for the other issues,

 

1) Whimpy horn - replace with a Stebel horn. Costs about $70 including a wiring harness (you can make your own if you like). Carbon One makes a bracket that allows the horn to mount easily into the location of the current horn. There are a couple of other tips for this install which we can impart when you are ready to do this.

 

2) High Center of Gravity - Levelling links seem to help. They slightly change the slope of the bike which helps tremendously with the low speed handling. If you are vertically chanllenged, you can accomplish the same with going to a narrower front tire. It will still be somewhat top heavy, but will handle much better at slow speeds.

 

Enjoy.

 

RR

 

Having JUST changing my headlamp bolt, you are better off to split the shroud/fairing. However, if you have tiny hands, go in from behind..

 

The Stebel horn.. I have one those but it's not the chromed versions, so I stuck it in behind the shroud/fairing.. And it's that loud, a life saver.!!

 

Leveling links are a great idea, however, you might want to try to pump up your rear suspension.. I topped mine up to 45 lbs and it really makes the bike handle nicer.. A couple of my fellow Venture rider friends saw my pump and asked if I could do their shocks since they were 2 up that day, and without even mentioning about the handling to them, they both came back saying the bikes rode better, 2up or solo.. much nicer..

 

Sweet eh?

[Semi-retired]

Thanks for the encouragement, guys. I guess nothing can be perfect.....otherwise, why would we need our garages and all those nice shiny tools?

 

Actually Sqidley just DID replace my tires for me: New Avon Venoms with the 130 up front; incredible improvement in low/no speed handling....although with a small tradeoff in highway trackability in the wind (ideal, of course, would be to have a two front wheels tired up...one standard size for infreqent long range cruising.....one narrower one for "darting" around town most weeks.)

 

Stebel: picking one up this Friday in Ottawa; heard Gary N.'s and had to have one. Good call for anyone wanting to stay alive on a bike!

 

Will probably try the bike for a few thousand more miles with just the tire change before doing the leveling link thing. (Don't want to have to bend/cut my nice shiny side-stand just yet!!)

 

Having JUST changing my headlamp bolt, you are better off to split the shroud/fairing. However, if you have tiny hands, go in from behind..

 

The Stebel horn.. I have one those but it's not the chromed versions, so I stuck it in behind the shroud/fairing.. And it's that loud, a life saver.!!

 

Leveling links are a great idea, however, you might want to try to pump up your rear suspension.. I topped mine up to 45 lbs and it really makes the bike handle nicer.. A couple of my fellow Venture rider friends saw my pump and asked if I could do their shocks since they were 2 up that day, and without even mentioning about the handling to them, they both came back saying the bikes rode better, 2up or solo.. much nicer..

 

Sweet eh?

[RedRider]

FYI

 

You won'y need to modify your sidestand w/ leveling links.

 

RR

[VentureProf]

It is a medium pain, but I've changed the bulb a few times without splitting the fairing. My hands aren't huge, but I wear a L to XL glove so not small either. Pulling the headlight adjustment knob is the key, along with patience. Many of us have done it so it is by no means an impossible job. With that said, once you've split the fairing a few times it becomes a pretty easy job. So, if you haven't done it yet, I'd split the fairing just for the experience. Eventually you will need to, so just jump in and do it.

 

Kelly

[Semi-retired]

Thanks for that note, Jeff......but if/when I install the levelling links, I'll probably be dropping the front end on the fork tubes, too.......so I think something will probably have to be done about the height of the sidestand. (not that I'm vertically challenged, but when you get a 200 pound passenger up-back, it would be nice to be a little closer to the ground!)

 

And, headlight-wise, everyone who contributed to this thread, Gary, Rob, Steve, Alex.......some of you will be pleased, (and apparently some will be amazed) that I was actually able to replace my headlamp with that amazingly bright Sylvania H4 bulb, WITHOUT splitting the fairing.

 

The secret is (or I should say the secrets ARE):

1. Get the bike up on a lift if you can (or a nice blanket to sit on the floor beside the bike

2. Get as much light on the left-hand "crotch" of the stearing head as you can...with the bars turned full lock to the right.

3. Slide the light adjustment knob off for extra fidgeting room (as rek58 mentioned, it comes off just like a radio knob)

 

Also, I discovered through trial and error (mostly trial...since there's not much you can screw up) that it really helps to know what you're looking for; unfortunately, you don't know what you don't know until you know it. (duh)

 

The key 'ingredients' of this job are simple:

1. you simply yank off the headlamp socket

2. yank off the rubber boot that keeps crud from going into the headlamp

3. forget about "turning (anything) counterclockwise" like the manual says...just poke the end of the spring retainer holding the bulb into the headlight socket, (you can see clearly how it's mounted if you have your 500 watt trouble lamp pointed in there!), and the lamp will almost fall into your hand.

 

I will grant one "deferral" to the guys that say it "can't be done without splitting the fairing": although I have large hands (XXL gloves) they are somewhat skinny. So if you're built like Paul Bunyan, you WILL have to split the fairing, or find a buddy with smaller/slimmer hands to work withing the confines of the stearing head.

 

Thanks again for everyone's help.......we took the bike out for a late night trial run with the new light......and Gary N., it was everything you promised it would be! Like day and night (so to speak!)

 

Cheers,

Mike

FYI

 

You won'y need to modify your sidestand w/ leveling links.

 

RR

Edited August 20, 2008 by Semi-retired

[naturesway]

Red Rider,

 

Where can I get some leveling links---I have a 2007 Venture--maybe better at slow speeds. Did the venture flop a few times.

[TexasVenture]

After reading all the horror stories about having to split the fairing, or having a female hand do it, I slipped off the headlight adjustment knob (eazy, peazy, Japaneazy), removed the rubber boot covering the lamp base, found the tab for the retaining clip and swung it out to the left and presto... removed the bulb.

 

My hand is pretty darned big, too!

 

BTW, I replaced it with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra. Some have said that they do not get long life on this bulb... well it does say on the back of the blister pack that it has only 1/4 the life of a standard H4 bulb. For me, it's worth it. It is very bright on both Hi and Lo beam.

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2012 by TexasVenture

[djh3]

I had to look at some "real" pictures of this operation before I understood it. The manual dont really give it a very good discription. Full right turn and some finaggling and you can get it done. However I can definatly see how a very long pair of needlenose pliers would make it easier.

[Semi-retired]

 

My hand is pretty darned big, too!

 

BTW, I replaced it with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra. Some have said that they do not get long life on this bulb... well it does say on the back of the blister pack that it has only 1/4 the life of a standard H4 bulb. For me, it's worth it. It is very bright on both Hi and Lo beam.

 

 

Yeah, yeah.....we know.......everything's big in TEXAS!! LOL

 

Right there with you on BRIGHT vs LONG-LIVED.......but, since we (well, you Americans) put a man on the moon........any reason we can't have BOTH?!?

 

[jeffast]

Thanks to all on this thread for the information on replacing my 2nd Gen headlight bulb.

 

As described above, I:

 

1. Turned Fairing all the way to the right.

 

2. Got a bunch of light on the area from above.

 

3. Sat on the floor, feet pointing in the direction of travel.

 

4. Pulled big 4'' rubber cover off. (Has a tab marked "Top" at the top.)

 

5. Pushed IN and UP on right side of retainer spring. (I had to adjust the drop light lower to see the retainer spring, which crosses the bulb at about 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock.)

 

6. Since the socket came off when I removed the 4'' rubber cover, I simply pulled the old bulb out, and as mentioned above, no turning or rotation required.

 

7. Put it back together in reverse order.

 

Total elapse time........8-minutes.

 

I have GIANT hands. Only met one man in my 55-years with bigger hands, and he was 6ft 7in.

 

Again, many thanks to the contributors above! So glad I joined the Forum!

[OB-1]

...I have GIANT hands. Only met one man in my 55-years with bigger hands, and he was 6ft 7in...

 

But now for the real questions: Do you have any skin left on your big hands and fingers after cramming them into that tiny space? And, do your fingers still work after all that?

 

My hands hurt just thinking about changing the headlight without splitting the fairing...

[jeffast]

Honestly, it went very well. Low angle of attack seems to be the key. Tried a few times previously from both sides, and gave up.

 

Ridin' from Santa Monica CA to DC with a few friends for Memorial Day. My wife's uncle was KIA in Korea. I'm carrying his Purple Heart to the Memorials.

 

6,500 miles round-trip, returning to SoCal through Milwaukee, Deadwood, Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, Mesquite, and Lake Havasu City.

 

Needed the brighter light, and my hand survived unharmed.

 

If you see a red 2nd Gen Venture, chirpin' like a bird, throw me a low-sign.

 

Thanks for the jab!

 

Jeff:rotf:

[OB-1]

Honestly, it went very well. Low angle of attack seems to be the key. Tried a few times previously from both sides, and gave up.

 

Ridin' from Santa Monica CA to DC with a few friends for Memorial Day. My wife's uncle was KIA in Korea. I'm carrying his Purple Heart to the Memorials.

 

6,500 miles round-trip, returning to SoCal through Milwaukee, Deadwood, Yellowstone, Jackson Hole, Mesquite, and Lake Havasu City.

 

Needed the brighter light, and my hand survived unharmed.

 

If you see a red 2nd Gen Venture, chirpin' like a bird, throw me a low-sign.

 

Thanks for the jab!

 

Jeff:rotf:

 

We live just north of I-90 between Sundance and Moorcroft WY, so we're either on your route or pretty close. We're listed in the VR Assistance list so call if you need anything while in the area. Our bike is presently down with a smoked stator and crash damage. Big bikes and mud roads don't mix well, but we'll have it back together in a few weeks.

 

You might want to add the Chief Joseph Parkway and Bear-tooth pass to your route as you will be close when in Yellowstone.

 

My Dad was a Paratrooper in Korea, 187th Regimental Combat Team, the "Rakkasans" and I spent 9 years in the USAF.

 

Have a great ride!