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Guest cowboy701
Posted

Hi All, A newbie to this site, by the way, looks as if its a great site !!! have a 2000 RSTD and just installed a trailer hitch and need help with the wiring, can I just hook the plug (trailer plug) wires to the wires behind the lic. plate or should I install an Isolator ?? any help will be greately appreaciated as wiring and I just don't work well together Hee Hee !! Anyone riding around in so. cal. north of san Diego give me a yell,I know most all the backroads east of temecula. Cowboy701

Posted

You can hook it directly into the wires behind the plate and it will work fine. It is recommended that you use an isolator however. If you ever get a short in the trailer wiring or something of that nature, the isolator will prevent any damage or losing the lights on your bike.

 

Don

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hey Don. I used the tech article you had about the Modulite. Very helpful, straightforward and easy to follow. Made perfect sense from what i had already figured out.

 

Trouble: brakes: ok

Turn signals with brake on: ok

turn signals alone: 4 way flashers

no tail lights...

 

I am sure the colors are right -the only thing on the bike I've done electrically is to change the tail/brake light to the 32 bulb LED everyone talks about.

 

and ideas?

 

thanks.... charlie

Posted

The LEDs should affect the trailer. There is not a lot to check.

 

You have confirmed that colors are correct.

 

You need to make very sure that you have good connections at your splice.

 

It is very possible that you got a bad Modulite unit. Unfortunately, a lot of people have gotten faulty units. There seems to be a problem with their quality control.

Guest tx2sturgis
Posted (edited)

Bike rider and cowboy:

 

Here is my solution for using the Radiantz or similar LED brake/tail modules with a modulite. The modulite wants to 'see' a heavier load on the brake light circuit, and the LEDS dont provide this. This is very similar to adding load equalizers to LED turn signals to help the electronic flasher 'see' an active incandesecent bulb thats working.

 

After some trial and error, I found a solution.

 

You can see from these pictures that I have used a 75ohm 15 watt 'sand' resistor, and a 2 amp silicon diode. I used a glue called Plumbers Goop, but any good non-acidic heavy adhesive would work. Avoid RTV silicone glue. For the techies, this resistor will draw around 6 watts, and only when the BRAKE light it actually ON. It will get mildly warm, ( not hot!) after about 5 minutes of ON time. Not enough to worry about.

 

You can sometimes find these resistors at any large electronics supply house, but I ordered a quantity of several diffent values from allelectronics.com

 

I believe the resistors may be available at Radio Shack.

 

You only need one of each these, so if you need a source, let me know.

 

______________________________________________________

 

 

 

Here is the procedure:

 

Glue the resistor to the board first, exactly where it is in the pics. This location will clear when you re-install the module. After a couple of hours, your ready to solder.

 

The resistor I used has little 'feet' that help hold it above the surface, for better airflow, although a flat bottom will work too.

 

I scraped the insulation off the PC board, exposing the copper trace, on the negative lead, about a half inch over, and then tinned the copper and the wire and then soldered a short piece of hookup wire to the board. Always 'pre-tin' your leads, and also scrape the leads of the resistor till they are shiny, with a pocket or razor knife, for best solder flow.

 

I soldered to the positive lead directly...it was just easier.

 

The wire going to the center positve lead, ( purple on mine) connects to the negative side of the diode, and the positive side of the diode ( the end with the stripe) connects to one end of the resistor.( doesnt matter which end on the resistor).

 

Then the other resistor lead ( black on mine) connects to the negative lead on the LED board.

 

Apply some glue to the leads to tidy them up, then put a piece of tape over it all to hold everything in place while the glue dries.

 

Re-install the LED module and assuming all your other wiring is correct, it will be ready to go.

 

Mine has been working fine with or without the trailer for many months. I wrote an email to the Radiantz company about this mod, and they approved.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
Posted

thanks...clear response and instructions.

 

I got my tail lights to work...a simple bad connection (duh) but the turns still both flash until the brake is applied.

 

is it a simple diagnosis to reinstall a regular incandescent bulb in place of the LED and if all works, then proceed?

 

I'm uncertain how the LED tail/brake light affects the turn signals...

Guest tx2sturgis
Posted (edited)

is it a simple diagnosis to reinstall a regular incandescent bulb in place of the LED and if all works, then proceed?

 

I'm uncertain how the LED tail/brake light affects the turn signals...

 

Yes. To do your testing, just reinstall a normal 1157 bulb. Hook up the trailer, and if all goes well, then you know its the LED module thats not pulling enough to trigger the Modulite.

 

The control circuit in the Modulite wants to 'see' a load ( or current flow) on the brake light so it knows to switch the flashing circuit. Once you get it wired right, with the trailer connected, you will notice the turn signals on the trailer are in 'sync' with your turn signals on the bike, but once the brake is applied, the trailer turn signals will flash 'out of sync' with the bike signals.

 

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
Posted

Nope, not at all... I even found a local dealer and he even

made good on the units even though I did not buy

them from him.

Jeff

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