master cylinder and slave

[chocking]

Got my parts in toady from Rick at Buckeye and will attempt tomorrow to repair clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my 83 VR. I do have the mannual that shows the diagram for the mc, but the directions for the slave are pretty vague. Anyone ever do these jobs or have any expert advice before I tear into them. Need to get old 83 up and running?

 

Thanks,

Clay

[Condor]

Got my parts in toady from Rick at Buckeye and will attempt tomorrow to repair clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my 83 VR. I do have the mannual that shows the diagram for the mc, but the directions for the slave are pretty vague. Anyone ever do these jobs or have any expert advice before I tear into them. Need to get old 83 up and running?

 

Thanks,

Clay

 

I'm not going to go into the whole clutch master rebuild Clay, but attached are about 5 pics that will save you from pulling your hair out. #1..compress the piston #2 stick a sharp awl into the hole in the bottom of the reseve to keep the piston compressed. #3 'C' clip exposed. #4 small needle nosed pliers with ground tips #5 Needle nose in action.

[Tupperj]

Got my parts in toady from Rick at Buckeye and will attempt tomorrow to repair clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on my 83 VR. I do have the mannual that shows the diagram for the mc, but the directions for the slave are pretty vague. Anyone ever do these jobs or have any expert advice before I tear into them. Need to get old 83 up and running?

 

Thanks,

Clay

 

Clay,

 

Condor's got you set on the master, the slave is easy, ONCE you get the dang thing off the bike! It will wiggle through and down, watch closely and pay attention to how it come out, and get it back in the same twisted way. For me it lead to some really creative cursing. Once the thing is out, it is extremely obvious how it comes apart, no tricks or surprises. Just get it cleaned out really well, put it back together and wiggle it back into place. It may seem easier to get it back in without the clutch line attached, but it's not.

 

I'm also a fan of installing SpeedBleeders anywhere one has to bleed lines. But that's a personal choice.

 

Good luck, and shout if you need anything else.

 

Paul

[Condor]

Clay,

 

Condor's got you set on the master, the slave is easy, ONCE you get the dang thing off the bike! It will wiggle through and down, watch closely and pay attention to how it come out, and get it back in the same twisted way. For me it lead to some really creative cursing. Once the thing is out, it is extremely obvious how it comes apart, no tricks or surprises. Just get it cleaned out really well, put it back together and wiggle it back into place.

 

Paul

 

That's another area that I originally had a problem with, but..... what I finally found out is that that slave is fairly easy to remove, and install, by rotating it upside down as you remove it, and insert it upside down when installing. What happens is the bolt tab of the slave sets behind the shift linkage rod, and by rotating it it moves to the front of the rod and is much easier to remove. The middle gear cover needs to be removed, the wires coming out of the stator need to be pushed out of the way, and the line from the master with banjo bolt must be removed. Go slow....be patient...Drink beer.....

Edited August 6, 2008 by Condor

[GeorgeS]

The Slave Cylinder can be rebuilt with a KIT. ( About $15.00 )

 

However you can get the complete NEW Cylinder for about $ 35.00

I strongly suggest that you simple get a New One. Due to the AGE

of you bike.

 

You are going to find corrosion in the old cylinder, and it may be to

much to be able to Resurface it. For the Small difference in price, I

would simply get a new one !!! Trust me on this, its not worth the

frustration of dealing with the corroded surface's.

[rhncue]

GeorgeS[/left];236311]The Slave Cylinder can be rebuilt with a KIT. ( About $15.00 )

 

However you can get the complete NEW Cylinder for about $ 35.00

I strongly suggest that you simple get a New One. Due to the AGE

of you bike.

 

You are going to find corrosion in the old cylinder, and it may be to

much to be able to Resurface it. For the Small difference in price, I

would simply get a new one !!! Trust me on this, its not worth the

frustration of dealing with the corroded surface's.

 

I rebuilt my clutch slave 3 or 4 years ago. The hardest part of the removal was getting the two allen head bolts to break loose. They were very tight and had loc-tite on them. i even bought a set of allen wrenches that were used with a socket wrench but the socket broke. After rounding off the wrench a number of times I finally put some valve grinding compound salve into the socket and onto the allen allen wrench. The carborundum made for a much better fit between wrench and bolt and gave a bite that eliminated the wrench slipping so that the bolts finally broke loose.

 

I rebuilt the original slave which was a little of a pain as it was very corroded and really full of junk. If I would have had any clue that a new slave was that cheap I would have never considered rebuilding the old. Live and learn.

 

Dick

Edited August 6, 2008 by rhncue

[mbrood]

The slave IS a bit tough to get to and if you even hint at rounding the two bolts... replace 'em. I got my bike and it was sweet... for a couple days, then the clutch would go "soft"... bleed it and it was ok for a while. When I opened the middle gear cover I could see two perfectly rounded allen bolts. The previous owner probably just gave up. It's a BEAR to get ANYTHING in there and Craftsman extractors saved the day since they grab on the OUTSIDE of the head... popped them puppies right out. It turned out that the p.o. had a wonderful selection of American standard tools, just perfect for rounding internal and external heads. Wherever I found a rounded bolt head or allen, I knew I should get in there and fix "something".

[chocking]

okay.. here comes my first question that probably has a real simple answer to it...

 

How do you disconnect the electrical connection/switch near the handle from the mc? I'd hate to break something so soon.. I'll try to attach picture even tho I have never done that.

 

Clay

 

clutch mc 001.jpg

[mbrood]

There's a round hole on the bottom of the metal that "catches" a tang of the switch... push in the hole and release the "latch" and ease out the switch.

[chocking]

duh.......... like I said... simple...

 

So far so good.. MC off and now onto the repair kit

[Condor]

I rebuilt the original slave which was a little of a pain as it was very corroded and really full of junk. If I would have had any clue that a new slave was that cheap I would have never considered rebuilding the old. Live and learn.

 

Dick

 

I replaced my slave 3 years ago with a new one from Buckeye. Ran around $60 bucks. Still cheep enough. If I could get them for $30 bucks I'd buy a half dozen just because....

It's a BEAR to get ANYTHING in there and Craftsman extractors saved the day since they grab on the OUTSIDE of the head... popped them puppies right out. It turned out that the p.o. had a wonderful selection of American standard tools, just perfect for rounding internal and external heads. Wherever I found a rounded bolt head or allen, I knew I should get in there and fix "something".

 

I used a #25 allenhead socket with a 1/4" extension. One came out great and the other rounded out. I wasn't as smart as you Mike. I drilled the allen head off and then took a metric stud extractor on the rest after the slave was outta there.

[chocking]

With Condor's perfectly described method, the inner workings came out like a breeze. Looks relatively simple to put back in with the exception of one question...

 

How do you get the rubber cylinder cap over the cylinder as on the removed one shown in picture?

 

002.jpg

[Gearhead]

I finally put some valve grinding compound salve into the socket and onto the allen allen wrench. The carborundum made for a much better fit between wrench and bolt and gave a bite that eliminated the wrench slipping so that the bolts finally broke loose.

 

 

Wow, that's clever!

 

And Craftsman extractors - I'll have to remember that.

 

Jeremy

[MiCarl]

With Condor's perfectly described method, the inner workings came out like a breeze. Looks relatively simple to put back in with the exception of one question...

 

How do you get the rubber cylinder cap over the cylinder as on the removed one shown in picture?

 

002.jpg

 

Wet it up with some brake fluid and stretch it over. Profanity often helps.

[Condor]

Wet it up with some brake fluid and stretch it over. Profanity often helps.

 

I screw it on using those large threads. It ain't easy, but do-able. Just make sure you have it installed in the right direction or you'll really get pissed.....

[chocking]

With thanks to all those expert advisors, the master cylinder is in.... the new slave is in and all surprisingly easy.. Going to get the fluid in tomorrow and bleed it out. Hopefully all is well...

 

Let you know how it all turns out....

Clay

[chocking]

Bled the master cylinder well and have good pressure, put new slave in and freakin thing will still not shift from nuetral to anything else.. :smash2:seems stuck there. In neutral rear wheel will turn..

 

Obviously something else is still messed up..

Any thoughts or ideas

 

Help..

[Squeeze]

That might be not enough Pressure to disengage the Clutch. Bleeding the Clutch Line is a real PITA.

[Condor]

I sent you a PM on reverse bleeding the clutch. If that doesn't get you going then it's time to pull the clutch cover and take a look at the mechanical end of the matter. I gotta ask. Can you shift into any gear while the motor is not running??? You should be able to get things lined up and shift up and down thru the gears without the clutch.... Anyway put the bike on the sidestand, and you won't have to drain the oil. While the cover is off operate the clutch lever. Is the clutch pack moving? Yes?? Then it's not your clutch and probably your tranny. If not then pull the pressurer plate off. Try very gently squeezing the clutch lever again with your finger on the rod. Feel movement? Then the problem in the clutch pack. Hope it's a air in the line problem...

[RedRocket]

Ahhhhhh. I just rebuilt my master cylinder, and before removing the slave I managed to round out one of the allen bolts. After a lot of tool chasing to be able to drill so deeply, and hold an easy-out, 2 drill, and tries with the easy-out and I finally got it out!!!!!! Yay me.

 

Now I'm resting up, and re-reading the removal tips.

[rhncue]

Ahhhhhh. I just rebuilt my master cylinder, and before removing the slave I managed to round out one of the allen bolts. After a lot of tool chasing to be able to drill so deeply, and hold an easy-out, 2 drill, and tries with the easy-out and I finally got it out!!!!!! Yay me.

 

Now I'm resting up, and re-reading the removal tips.

 

To late now but in the future when trying to remove a resistant allen head bolt get a small tube or can of valve grinding compound. Coat the tip of your allen wrench with the compound which contains carborundum. This will make the wrench fit the socket head securely and when pressure is applied the carborundum will bite into the wrench and bolt, greatly increasing the friction and will help keep the head from rounding out.

 

Dick