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Posted

I have noticed slippage from what i think is the clutch when i shift from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration (full throttle). If i back off the throttle it is ok, seems like it grabs then it is good to go. This also will happen going from 2nd to 3rd but only under the same conditions. I usually ride conservatively but sometimes I like to hit it once in awhile for a little stress relief. My bike has 30,000 miles on it and it is an 86 model. Time for a new clutch? If that is needed then I take it that it will need new springs and a pressure plate also. How tough will it be to get to the slave cyl that seems to be buried in the block, since i will rebuild this also?:pushups:

Posted

My clutch started slipping in 4th under hard acceleration. I changed oil to motorcycle oil and that helped for a while. Finally, I broke down and replaced the clutch pads and it's been great ever since.

 

I dod not replace anything else except the slave cylinder rebuild. It is not that hard to get to. Under the left side chrome cover.

Posted

The Easy Fix, is A New Set of Clutch Springs, and a new Gasket for the cover.

Don't cost much, takes about 1 hour to do the replacement, easy to do.

 

Rule of thumb is the Plates Do Not Wear Out--- Most will agree on that.

 

If you ride double, and pull a trailer, you might want to look into the Barnett Pressure Plate upgrade.

 

Also, some folks say the V-Max Springs are Stronger, and work better, Ask for some opinions on that point if you are interested, I'm not sure on the details of that one.

But have heard it mentioned.

Posted

Had the same thing on mine, replaced the springs with new ones, did the trick. Also, no engine oil that says anything about "energy-conserving". You probably still have some friction modifiers in the plates that will work it's way out. Try the springs, tho.

 

Dan

Posted

The 1986 has a single diaphragm spring. Best thing to do is get a new set of frictions, gasket, and a PCW racing kit. It has an extra disc and a stiffer spring. Takes about an hour to change all the parts. My discs from my 1986 were ok thickness wise. However as I removed them I found a bit of deterioration of the facing due to age. Tools needed: long 5mm allen to reach the cover bolts, standard metric socket set for the 6 interior bolts, an o-ring pick or to for pulling the discs and the funny wire clip, gasket cleaning tools, and a torque wrench that will measure 9ft. lbs. Don't even lose any oil if you do it cold on the sidestand!!

 

JB

Posted

I changed my oil yesterday to Mobil 1 synthetic ... went for a day ride and noticed slippage under hard accel in 4th & 5th. It was fine before so dropping that oil and putting regular back in.

Posted

Usually when the clutch is slipping it does it in the higher gears/4th and 5th but I suppose under certain conditions it would slip in the lower gears.

I just did my clutch but if I were to do it again I would put all OEM parts back in it. If you want to put the stronger spring in that would be okay but I think it worth the time to replace the fiber disc's as well. I didn't like the different disc at all. By the way it's not an extra disc that you get with the kit, it replaces the smaller surface one.

Good Luck,

Jerry

Posted
I changed my oil yesterday to Mobil 1 synthetic ... went for a day ride and noticed slippage under hard accel in 4th & 5th. It was fine before so dropping that oil and putting regular back in.

 

I have tried Synth (mobil one) no friction mods and my clutch slipped almost immediately and it was worst in 2nd and 3rd under hard accelleration, but almost any gear when tried.

 

I changed the oil back to dino and it got better but now after 2 oil changes still slips sometimes when the engine is cold, and goes away after about 10 minutes of running. I dont know whether the synth caused an issue or just made a situation come to my notice a bit quicker.

 

My ride only has about 33000 miles and as far as I know has never had any clutch work done, so its overdue, I guess.

 

Brian

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