MAINEAC Posted July 19, 2008 #1 Posted July 19, 2008 I pulled my radiator overflow tank and pulled the 3 white wire connection apart... I ohmed it out to each other... nothing... I started the bike had black wire to neg side of batery and red probe to all 3 wires (1 at a time) and I got no Voltage... Am I doing something wrong? or did my stator wires some how become disconnected? Does the white plug have to be connected to produce voltage? I'm thinking the Dealer did something to this when I had my Shock Replaced, Cruise & Fuel gauge fixed under warranty. Of course my warranty is run out now and the work was done in March and I haven't done any long trips and have been putting on a tender every night... I kinda knew something was up a while ago when a few times I got a weak crank. Any suggestions??
Squidley Posted July 19, 2008 #2 Posted July 19, 2008 The plug is in a very bad spot, so it really shouldn't just come unplugged. Find the other end of it and plug it back in and then start it and put a multimeter on it and see how many volts it's pushing at the battery. 13.8 is fine with the engine revving, low 13's is not good. I dont know how old the battery is, but when Gunboat had his problems in Kitchener it turned out to be a bad battery and just replacing it cleared the entire issue up.
MAINEAC Posted July 19, 2008 Author #4 Posted July 19, 2008 Thanks Squid for the quick response... I don't think it's the battery and I'm not getting anything over the 12.4 - 12.8 at the battery regardless of the Revs... It's just running off the battery with no voltage going back... My battery may be bad now from discharging it so many times... I've been riding it like this for a while... just short jaunts with jumper cables in my saddlebag... I haven't had time to deal with it... I'm working on it today and it's gonna be about 90 here .. Neil gave me some things to try ... goin to do that now.. Thanx again guys
1BigDog Posted July 19, 2008 #5 Posted July 19, 2008 Mark, constant bump starting and boosting can wreak havoc with the regulator/rectifier. It may not be the cause but in my case it was. Once I replaced mine it was fine. I also cleaned up my connectors at the plug for the stator which was caked in grease and added dielectric grease. Sounds like your connection wasnt as bad as mine though. Good luck....
Bvinson Posted July 19, 2008 #6 Posted July 19, 2008 Try this chart. I have a printed version I keep in the trunk.fault-finding-diagram.pdf
Rocket Posted July 19, 2008 #7 Posted July 19, 2008 I dont know how old the battery is, but when Gunboat had his problems in Kitchener it turned out to be a bad battery and just replacing it cleared the entire issue up. Gunboats battery was only about 6 months old too..... Thanks Squid for the quick response... I don't think it's the battery and I'm not getting anything over the 12.4 - 12.8 at the battery regardless of the Revs... Thanx again guys Try with a borrowed battery & see what the readings are, as this is similar to gunboat's, until Squid tried his battery on the scoot.
MAINEAC Posted July 19, 2008 Author #8 Posted July 19, 2008 DOH!! I was testing the male part of the plug... when I started tracing it I realized it went somewhere behind the fuse box... Not sure how to read this mickey mouse volt meter... My kid has my digital... I'm using the one with a needle.. Anyways near as I can tell I'm getting 20 volts from 2 of the combo w to w wires and the 3rds like 15... Ohm test goes off the chart no matter what setting I select and beeps on everyone. I printed the guide and used that... according to that my stator's bad... Ruff I did the clean and grease thing a while ago and also replaced the regulator with no change in charging status... I guess I gotta go shopping... thanks all for your help.
GeorgeS Posted July 19, 2008 #9 Posted July 19, 2008 First Check the Large White Plug for Damage, is it Burned up ??? IF so, either Replace it, or Cut it out, and Splice the wires together. Use Western Union Splice, and Solder the new Splice with Rosin Core Solder, and apply 2 layers of Heat Shrink Tubeing for new insulation. ( check Wikipedia for " Western Union Splice " ) Now, Check the DC voltage at battery, at about 2000 RPM, Read 13.2 to 14 Volts , DC. IF not do the following. ------ Open the Large White Plug. Do Resistance Reading, Pin to Pin, Looking INTO the STATOR. You should Read, Almost Dead short, or 1 OHM, Pin 1 to 2, Pin 1 to 3 and Pin 2 to 3. All should read the Same. Book says, .05 ohms, or almost dead short. ( IF one is Infinate, ie. no connection, stator is bad ) Next: With Large White plug from Stator, " Connected " " Engine Running at about 2000 rpm " Black meter , lead to ground, Red meter lead, stick into each wire of the plug. ---- You should read, " Some " AC Voltage, 6 to about 15 Volts, AC ( not dc ) All three wires should read " About " the same voltage, within + or - One volt. Exact voltage is not that important, for this test. IF ---- One of the three wires reads, Substantially, lower then the other two then the Stator is going out. Next: IF, your Stator Voltage readings are all 6 to 14 AC, and withing 1 volt of each other, then You might have a Bad Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. If Stator OK, and DC at battery below 12.5 DC, at 2000 rpm, then maby bad Regulator, IF you are sure your battery is OK>
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