Japanese Phillip Screws

[Rick Butler]

If you are lucky,

 

You learn something new every day. Have you ever wondered why phillips screws (like on carb bowls) on metric bikes always get boogered up or rounded out? Well today I finally found out why.....

 

It appears the Japanese industry standard for phillips screws is different than the US and European standard. Yeah and they use a different phillips screw driver. It appears from the following link that Snap-On carries these items.

 

http://www.katun.com/products/toolsjis.html

 

So does anyone out there have access to a Snap-On truck to validate this? And do they have the hex screw tips for our magnetic drivers.

 

This might keep us from drilling phillip heads off and replacing them with cap screws?

 

Rick

[BuddyRich]

I have also wondered why they seem to be softer metal in general. Maybe so they stretch instead of strip.

 

Thanks Rick.

[KeithR]

I bought a set of T Handle Philips screw drivers when I bought my 1977 Honda 750k and thier is a difference. I still have them but did recently strip a screw on my RSMV when installing my carb covers with a standard screw driver. I didn't have my T Handel with me (bike is stored 300k from me). I learned my lesson on that project ! Yamaha does show T Handle Tool Set

ABA-THNDL-TL-ST

 

 

 

 

Keith

[Eck]

Rick,

Good info there bud!!

Hey, not sure if you did, but if you click on the "tools" section in the link you provided, you will see a complete tool box of Snap on Screw Drivers that they sell.

I would believe that this the confirmation your looking for that Snap on does in fact make those tpye of screw drivers.

Well I can go back to bed now. I learned something today...Hope I learn something new again tomorrow now.......

Thanks Rick

[WilCruise]

I always assumed there was a difference like this because it's so often I can't get any size Phillips driver to seat properly. If it's too late, here's the best $3 you can spend. These things have saved me hundreds in replacement parts and thousands in aggravation in less than a year. Just a couple of weeks ago I got out the seized and stripped screws on both front master covers. Would've had to try drilling, easy-outs, if that failed, tap new threads (assuming enough metal left) else replacing the part. Wish I had these for the last 25 years!

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38037

[Cutty]

[quote name=

WilCruise]I always assumed there was a difference like this because it's so often I can't get any size Phillips driver to seat properly. If it's too late, here's the best $3 you can spend. These things have saved me hundreds in replacement parts and thousands in aggravation in less than a year. Just a couple of weeks ago I got out the seized and stripped screws on both front master covers. Would've had to try drilling, easy-outs, if that failed, tap new threads (assuming enough metal left) else replacing the part. Wish I had these for the last 25 years!

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38037

The tool you want from Harbor is #93481-1VGA $5.99, This tool is a MUST when working on aluminum screws. It comes with the correct #2 phillips bit used the most.

[Rocket]

Just a couple of weeks ago I got out the seized and stripped screws on both front master covers. Would've had to try drilling, easy-outs, if that failed, tap new threads (assuming enough metal left) else replacing the part. Wish I had these for the last 25 years!

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38037

 

A work around I used yesterday, on a screw in that condition, was drill a short 1/8" hole in the head, tapped a small torx bit in the hole, from a multidriver, attached the handle & unscrewed it.