99silver Posted February 9, 2007 #51 Posted February 9, 2007 Can't visualize that right off but there's always more than one way to do the job. Larry Your right MY way or the WRONG way !! JK:rotf: Gary
Carbon_One Posted February 9, 2007 #52 Posted February 9, 2007 Your right MY way or the WRONG way !! JK:rotf: Gary Yea I'd thought of that statement myself but didn't want to be a smartypants here. Larry
99silver Posted February 9, 2007 #53 Posted February 9, 2007 I better get off here before someone takes me serious. Gary
Carbon_One Posted February 12, 2007 #54 Posted February 12, 2007 Ok for those of you who want a simple yet effective horn mount for these Stebel air horns here's my bracket I promised to produce. They're made from 1/8" stainless steel and polished nicely. They'll cost $15 which includes shipping by priority mail. You can either pay for it at lskeels@wowway at PayPal or e-mail me for my address if sending a money order. See the pics on page 4 post #32 of this topic for the pics. Larry
FreezyRider Posted February 12, 2007 #55 Posted February 12, 2007 Larry, I made mine where it drops down from the ground attatchment and makes a U turn and the horn sits on the bracket !!! no chance of it comming off even if it loosens. a little cold to go out and take pic's but I think its a good design. Gary I'd sure like to see some good photos of your setup.....and cold is no excuse!! Heck, cameras don't care how cold it is!!!
99silver Posted February 19, 2007 #56 Posted February 19, 2007 I'd sure like to see some good photos of your setup.....and cold is no excuse!! Heck, cameras don't care how cold it is!!! Well, I got over the flue replaced the clothes dryer and repaired the washing machine and took the camera to the garage when I put my tools away. Gary
Midrsv Posted February 19, 2007 #57 Posted February 19, 2007 Just got my horn installed this weekend. Man that thing is loud! I cana't wait until the next cage tries to move into my space. This horn will knock them back into their lane. I made my bracket out of a 3/4" wide section of 2 1/2" angle stock and it is 3/16" thick and very sturdy. DT
PERM44 Posted February 22, 2007 #58 Posted February 22, 2007 I just installed my Stebel horn, in the place where my old horn was, and the connections on the bottom of the horn are very close to the pipes. Has anyone has had any problem with the wires melting? I did bend the connections almost at a 90 deg angle to get a little more clearance. Just wondering if any of the guys that have the horn installed in this manner have had any problems.
Midrsv Posted February 22, 2007 #59 Posted February 22, 2007 I just installed my Stebel horn, in the place where my old horn was, and the connections on the bottom of the horn are very close to the pipes. Has anyone has had any problem with the wires melting? I did bend the connections almost at a 90 deg angle to get a little more clearance. Just wondering if any of the guys that have the horn installed in this manner have had any problems. I thought the same thing. I took a dremel tool and cut slots in the plastic cap and then bent the connectors so that they don't protrude below the cap. Once the weather improves I'll be able to test it. The thing is loud though, isn't it. DT
99silver Posted February 22, 2007 #60 Posted February 22, 2007 I install 90 degree connectors on mine and clearance is no problem, although I was concerned and kept a close watch for awhile. Gary
Boomer Posted February 22, 2007 #61 Posted February 22, 2007 I just installed my Stebel horn, in the place where my old horn was, and the connections on the bottom of the horn are very close to the pipes. Has anyone has had any problem with the wires melting? I did bend the connections almost at a 90 deg angle to get a little more clearance. Just wondering if any of the guys that have the horn installed in this manner have had any problems. Not yet. I did use 90 deg connectors though just to help. The bottom of my horn is about 1/2" from the heat shield that runs along the top of that pipe. I ran it hard today and checked it our when I got back in. No issues.
PERM44 Posted February 23, 2007 #62 Posted February 23, 2007 Thanks for the ideas. I may take some of the plastic off w/ the dremel. If I can find some of those 90 deg. connectors, that should give me plenty of clearance. I'll still keep an eye on them for a while.
Boomer Posted February 23, 2007 #63 Posted February 23, 2007 Thanks for the ideas. I may take some of the plastic off w/ the dremel. If I can find some of those 90 deg. connectors, that should give me plenty of clearance. I'll still keep an eye on them for a while. You can pick up the wiring connectors at most any auto parts store. Usually come 8-10 in a small package. Not sure what wire size you used, but I used 14 ga. stranded. The blue ones are for 16-14 gauge wire.
bobo Posted February 24, 2007 #64 Posted February 24, 2007 You can pick up the wiring connectors at most any auto parts store. Usually come 8-10 in a small package. Not sure what wire size you used, but I used 14 ga. stranded. The blue ones are for 16-14 gauge wire. I just carefully bent the straight ones to 90 degrees...
AZSpyder Posted March 9, 2007 #65 Posted March 9, 2007 Has anyone been able to compare the Stebel and the Harbor Freight Wolo Bad Boy horn? Its just two blocks away and on sale again. I have my doubts about any horn being able to hit 139dB but I have no doubt the Stebel is very loud from all the postings on this thread. The bad boy is rated at 118dB but may be measured differently. Jerry
gibvel Posted March 9, 2007 #66 Posted March 9, 2007 Has anyone been able to compare the Stebel and the Harbor Freight Wolo Bad Boy horn? Its just two blocks away and on sale again. I have my doubts about any horn being able to hit 139dB but I have no doubt the Stebel is very loud from all the postings on this thread. The bad boy is rated at 118dB but may be measured differently. Jerry Okay, This db stuff is just a little misleading. It's funny but I read in, either the manual or something on line that the Stebel is rated at 139db, this is true......however, in the fine print it states 139db @ 4". So, while it's loud and I'm glad I got the horn, I guess you have to qualify from what distance they are taking the SPL reading. Don't think many people are going to have their ears 4" from the horn when it goes off......except the guys who've mis wired the thing and have it go off when they make the final connection.
Mean Dog Posted March 10, 2007 #67 Posted March 10, 2007 Well I got my horn hooked up yesterday and I got to say it is pretty loud. Not ear splitting as I was imagining but, loud nun the less! I followed these instructions: I also have an easy wiring instructions. A. Pink horn wire goes to RELAY POST 85. B. Brown horn wire goes to Relay Post 86. C. Connect one end of a wire to Relay Post 30 and the other end to the Hot side,+, of the compressor D. Connect end of your 20 amp Fused line to Relay Post 87 and the other end to the Hot Post,+, of your Battery. E. Connect the negative,-, on compressor to ground or neg,-, post on battery I only had to remove the OEM horn from it's place and then add the new horn where the old one was. The other horn under the faring is still there and still connected and working. As for wiring just follow those instructions and everything will work like it should. The plug on the OEM horn I just cut into 2, their was a small V shaped plastic piece holding the 2 wires together. Once the V piece is cut you can then plug them into the relay directly. I mounted the relay under the battery cover on the side. And I used Carbon One's stainess steel bracket. All went well and it works like a charm! Thanks everyone for the usefull information and Carbon One, I greatly appreciate the bracket my friend! http://www.ultimatemyspace.com/i/smilies/party/party0038.gif Dog
Carbon_One Posted March 10, 2007 #68 Posted March 10, 2007 You're welcome Dog. After I made that bracket for my bike it worked just too good to keep to myself. Just had to share it with everyone who was looking for a clean install when using the Stebel horn. Larry
Christo Posted April 15, 2007 #69 Posted April 15, 2007 Using MeanDog's wiring and a modified version of Carbon_One's under the Faring techniques I was able to hook up a total of 3 horns. It made my wife and kid crap their pants. DO NOT USE the wiring diagram in those Fiam instructions, it will cause your horns to work when turning on/off the bike key ignition switch. I was able to find the "other" wire needed when installing those dual horns under the faring as described by Carbon_One. There is a brown wire on the right side of the faring I tapped/spliced into. So now I have dual horns under the faring and the Stebel Air horn where the stock chrome horn was. And they all work as expected! I will post the pictures in my gallery for anyone to see. It is nice to be no longer silent to other drivers! Now I just need to get a bracket to hold that Stebel horn better. I made a make-shift one using pipe bracket material in the interim. So I am hoping Carbon_One gets in touch with me soon. Thanks to Dog and Carbon for being the pioneers/guinea pigs! ;-)
Guest scooter38 Posted April 21, 2007 #70 Posted April 21, 2007 OK guys need some help here, I got my Stebel Air Horn during the week from http://www.twistedthrottle.com and I got the plug and play wiring kit to go with it figuring to make it eaiser to install. Well the connections they have are different from what I have seen here, which are, connect the black wire from the relay post 85 to the ground, so I hooked up to the battery negative. Run the red wire from the relay post 30 with the built in 30amp fuse to the positive battery terminal. Run the yellow wire, from post 87 and hook up to the positive of the air horn. Next connect the ground wire to the negative side of the horn and ground it at the mounting bolt. Install the fuse next. Next run the blue wire from post 86 to the existing horn hot wire. Ok so here's the deal got it all done tried the pink wire first and the horn was quiet and was on at time of turning key on. So tried the brown wire, and same thing. SO then tried both together and got the sound I was looking for from the horn but it still, as soon as I turned the key on the horn sounded. I'm curious as to what will happen if I take the wire on post 85 and hook that up to the pink wire and just hook the brown one up to the post at 86. Any ideas or knowledge of what will make this work with the wiring kit, or am I better off just wiring it the way Larry has it? I do like the whole connection thing they include nice wire harness to plug right into the relay, makes for a clean look and easy to unplug. Anyway, any help would be appeciated, Scott.
Christo Posted April 21, 2007 #71 Posted April 21, 2007 Scott, You are on the right track. There is another post here that tells you which color wire with which - so here it is: Originally Posted by Rick Butler You know guys, After installing horns with relays all these years, I finally realized there was really a simplier method to wiring up a 4 post relay, especially on horns. Once you realize that you need fused power from the battery to the relay and power out to the horn (30 in and 87 out) then the other pins (85 and 86) purpose is just to act as a trigger to power the internal switch to switch power from 30 to 87 (per Buddy's relay diagram). With the stock horn you always have a positive and negative connection (pink and black, I think). And these wires are a pretty small diameter because the stock horns don't pull many amps. It's these 2 wires that you connect to posts 85 and 86 and it really doesn't matter which post get's the positive or negative. The only other consideration is to make sure the horn has a good heavy ground, either to a second post on the horn (if you have a horn with 2 posts) or the center bolt of the horn (if it only has one post). And for this I always choose to ground to the bike's frame. Now with this concept, I don't need to refer to a relay schematic any longer. And if you can't remember which post is connected to the battery, it's always the post (30) that is turned different from the others. And the post directly accross from it (87) goes to the item you want to power. And for the other 2 (85 and 86) you just need a switched power source for one and a ground to the other. And when I say a switched power source, you do not want a constant power source, unless you want your horns to blow as soon as the bike is powered on. And these wires don't need to be very heavy because they are just drawing mili-amps. There have been times that I have used small double conductor speaker wire when I needed to wire in a switch into the circuit, like for lights. The wires to posts 30 and 87 need to be much heavier because they can be pulling up to 30 amps with 2 horns or 2 off road running lights. Hope this helps, Rick
Guest scooter38 Posted April 21, 2007 #72 Posted April 21, 2007 Yup that should help out just fine thanks a million, gonna get that finished today and the weather is to be about mid 70 today so maybe I'll get to try out he horn this afternoon. Scott
SamB Posted May 6, 2007 #73 Posted May 6, 2007 Gained I am getting ready to install a Stebel Air Horn. Your instuctions say that the post 30 and the + side of the horn are to be connected and the + post of the battery and post 87 are to be connected . The Stebel instuctions have them reversed. Do you know something that can help me out ? Being they are Italian made, I was hoping to get it right. Thanks
SaltyDawg Posted May 6, 2007 #74 Posted May 6, 2007 Gained I am getting ready to install a Stebel Air Horn. Your instuctions say that the post 30 and the + side of the horn are to be connected and the + post of the battery and post 87 are to be connected . The Stebel instuctions have them reversed. Do you know something that can help me out ? Being they are Italian made, I was hoping to get it right. Thanks I just installed one yesterday and followed these directions and it worked fine. A Pink horn wire to post 85 B Brown Horn Wire to post 86 C Post 30 to + side of horn D 20 amp fused from batt to post 87 E Ground - side of horn to engine ground. Just like in the first post of this thread.
SamB Posted May 7, 2007 #75 Posted May 7, 2007 Just completed the install following your directions, it works FINE , But forgot about the warning of not testing it in the garage. Sign language classes start at the Community College tomorrow!
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