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Posted

Looking for help. I have an 06 RSVM bought new last june. Bike has 14250 mi and is garage kept, and all scheduled services performed by dealer. Yesterday after work the bike wouldn't fire.. No Spark. Since I was on the 10th floor of a parking garage, I tried to bump start it all the way to the ground level.. Never got a hint of 'ignition'. So , got it towed to the Yamaha dealer.. I have a D3K on it, so today I took them my 'stock' module for them to try, and it made no difference. So what we have is, everything seems to be working fine, but no go! The dealer left me a phone message, to the effect, that they are scratching there heads and have a call into Mama Yamaha. Any input would be greatly appreceated!:sick:

Posted
Looking for help. I have an 06 RSVM bought new last june. Bike has 14250 mi and is garage kept, and all scheduled services performed by dealer. Yesterday after work the bike wouldn't fire.. No Spark. Since I was on the 10th floor of a parking garage, I tried to bump start it all the way to the ground level.. Never got a hint of 'ignition'. So , got it towed to the Yamaha dealer.. I have a D3K on it, so today I took them my 'stock' module for them to try, and it made no difference. So what we have is, everything seems to be working fine, but no go! The dealer left me a phone message, to the effect, that they are scratching there heads and have a call into Mama Yamaha. Any input would be greatly appreceated!:sick:

Ignition switch comes to mind. The ignition switch usually lasts much longer than this though.:080402gudl_prv:

Posted
Ignition switch comes to mind. The ignition switch usually lasts much longer than this though.:080402gudl_prv:

 

 

Or the Starter Relay switch, located in front of the fuel filter. Had this go out on me on the 05, would turn over, but no spark. :confused24:

Posted

So it will crank but not fire?

 

Check the red/white at the igniter box harness with key on for 12 V.

 

Check the black/white wire at harness with key on for continuity to ground....should not have continuity...if you do...the tip over switch is grounding out ignitor.

 

Check resistance of pick up coil that signals ignitor to fire.

Posted

I can't add much to what has been said but would sure check the ignition switch first. I have to assume that the dealer DID check all the fuses which are located in several places by the way.

 

BradT wrote up an excellent article on the ignition switch and it is in the tech library. Basically though, there are two bundles of wire coming out of the switch. One has three wires terminating with a connector and the other has two wires. Try unplugging the two wire one and jumpering it out.

Posted

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas! I am going to copy them all and print them out and take them over to the dealer later today. Hopefully, they will let me see the patient, and I will share all the info with the service manager for sure and hopefully get to talk to the mechanic who is working on my bike. Don't know how 'receptive' they will be to input.. :stickpoke:. I will 'post' how it goes. Thanks to everyone!

Posted
Try unplugging the two wire one and jumpering it out.

 

You can check the two wires with a multimeter Should be continuity there. This two wire plug is the main power if this is bad there will be no power at the dash or you can not crank the engine over.

 

If your bike is cranking over but no spark it is the three wire plug that needs to be checked. With the key on the check for continuity between the Blue/yellow wire and the Blue/black wire. Or if you had a piece a wire you can slide the wire into the backside of the plug. If no continuity or if the jumper wire makes it work then it is the switch.

 

Brad

Posted

Ok, just returned from the dealer , and they say it is the ignition switch. No part in stock and none local , so have to wait. Printed out the article about 'rebuilding the switch' which showed how to swap 1 part and use your old key with the new switch. They said they would do that for me.. Hope they follow through with that. Since they hadn't removed the old switch yet, I suggested that from what I read, it could very well just be a broken wire/bad connection underneath but seems they want to just wait for the new part. So if everything goes ok, should get it back in a few days.. Thanks for all the fine input!! Will post how it turns out.

Posted

 

Ok, just returned from the dealer , and they say it is the ignition switch.

 

 

I find it amazing that Yamaha has replaced so many of these dang ignition switches under warrenty and even those who dont have warrenty left, and they have yet implemented a recall on them....

:confused24::whistling:

Posted

 

Ok, just returned from the dealer , and they say it is the ignition switch.

 

 

I find it amazing that Yamaha has replaced so many of these dang ignition switches under warrenty and even those who dont have warrenty left, and they have yet implemented a recall on them....

:confused24::whistling:

 

This is because how the Industry System works ...

 

The actuall Manufacturer is confronted with the failing Switches and they pay a tremendous Price on each failed Switch to Yamaha. If the Ratio isn't high enough, Yamaha isn't able to make a Recall and let the OEM pay for the Recall Costs. So, they are 'only' charged for the actually failed Switches. This works as long as Yamaha isn't in Fear of loosing a Lot of Reputation. But therefore, the Ratio of failed Switches is not high enough.

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