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Posted

Not that big of a chore. I didn't bleed mine and it worked fine, probably should have, but oh well. The hardest part was figuring out the best/easiest way to get the pistons pushed back in.

Posted

i did mine last week nothing to it. clean caliper real good then used a large flathead to coppress pistons put new pads in and pumped out slack with brake pedal and went for a ride. :080402gudl_prv:

Posted
How big of a job is it to change the rear brake pads? Will I have to bleed the brakes ?Thanks in advance for any info .

 

 

It's a relatively easy process. Remove right saddlebag, that gives you access to the brakes. Take the caliper off and before you take the pads off you will want to recess the pistons but first clean the area all around them so you don't mess up the seals. You will have to crack the zert open to release pressure. Once you have the pistons recessed then tighten the zert back down. From there you have to pop the plastic cover off the top and then pull the two pins out and replace the brake pads.

 

*NOTE* Make sure you observe which way the piece of metal is on the top of the caliper that is being held in place by the two pins, it is important to put it back the same way or the pins won't fit properly.

 

Once the pads are replaced and everything is back in place and secure you will have to bleed the rear brakes. I highly recommend bleeding the brakes, these machines are real heavy and you need all the stopping power you can get.

 

Use a piece of aquarium pump tubing over the zert to direct the brake fluid into a can or something. It WILL mess the paint up if you allow it to get on the bike.

Posted

I use a 3 inch "C" clamp to retract the pistons.

 

Once you get the caliper off while old pad is in place put the "C" clamp on one side and tighten down till piston is flush and move to the other side and do same.

Disassembling pads the 2 pins are held in place with very small cotter pins making sure you put the top plate back on the way you took it off.

 

It is a pretty simple job if you need assistance call me and I can walk you through it.

 

PM me.........................................Ron

Posted

No need to remove the caliper! The pads slip right out the top after you remove the two pins and spring.

 

No need to release any pressure in the system to retract the pistons. Just use a flat piece of wood or large screwdriver to apply leverage to the pistons and they will slide right back into the caliper exactly like they do when you release the brake. The level of the fluid in the master cylinder will simply go back up to the full mark as it was when the bike was new.

 

No need to bleed the brakes at all if it wasn't spongy before you started. Using this method absolutely prevents any air or other contaminates from entering the system. Just remember to pump up the brake before you test ride it so they will work the first time you step on the peddle! :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

Posted

 

The level of the fluid in the master cylinder will simply go back up to the full mark as it was when the bike was new.

 

NOTE: This is provided that you or no one ever "added" brake fluid to the system...

 

 

pump up the brake before you test ride it so they will work the first time you step on the peddle!

Oh yea........a must do...:thumbsup2:

Posted

Personally I feel that changing the pads while leaving the caliper on is a great way to damage the rotor. It takes all of 2 minutes to take the caliper off so why risk it? Just my opinion.

Posted

Thanks for all the info Guys.Last week I had a tire put on (Kawa Dealer)and the fellow said my brakes were 3/4 used.I said put the pads on then.he checked and never had any pads so i said order them(he did).Yesterday I got my Bike serviced at my local (Yamaha Dealer)he said the wrench told him the Brakes were 3/4 good.I have the pads(new) in my trunk at this time.Someone gave me the run around .:whistling:

Posted

I changed mine out in a wal-mart parking lot. stoped there to got some channel-loks to push the piston down .it took my son-inlaw and me about 45min. to do the job. [no bleeding ].still working great.

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