SpeedySteve Posted June 23, 2008 #1 Posted June 23, 2008 Well while in El Paso I bypassed the ignition as shown by the excellent photo and verbal instructions from flb78! Thanks again. Have now had time to take a look and hook it all back up (after also replacing battery) and found out the ignition still is a NO GO with new battery in and wires replaced to the ignition. So leads me to believe the ignition is still out. I can live with it for a while. Going to get with dealer tomorrow and see if warrenty is still in effect! It is an '03 and I was told by previous owner June is the end of the warrenty! QUESTION...when the ignition went south on you did you also lose the sound system? I have no sounds anymore. Haven't checked the fuses on that end again. Just assumed it was connected to the ignition. Thanks again. And I am on the assistance list so if any of you are over this way and need help let me know. flb we may have to have a maintence day some where between here and there sometime. SS
allwx Posted June 23, 2008 #2 Posted June 23, 2008 Hi speedy. Where can I find this video about bypassing the ignition? I like to be prepared for the inevitable, LOL. thanks. Patrick
GeorgeS Posted June 23, 2008 #3 Posted June 23, 2008 If they give you a new switch, try to keep the old one. Sombody made a posting couple weeks ago, with photo's showing how to Dissassemble the old switch and Repair it. If your interested in giveing it a try, and haveing a spare.
Moped Posted June 23, 2008 #4 Posted June 23, 2008 Patrick, ignition bypass is found in technical library. Go to 2nd gen & royal star tech library, then to computer, lights, horn, other electrical then to bypass.
SpeedySteve Posted June 23, 2008 Author #5 Posted June 23, 2008 Hi speedy. Where can I find this video about bypassing the ignition? I like to be prepared for the inevitable, LOL. thanks. Patrick Actually it was a still shot but it was great to have. By the way be sure to leave some wire when cutting it off. Especially close to the connection. May check out the rebuild too. SS
Eck Posted June 23, 2008 #6 Posted June 23, 2008 Where can I find this video about bypassing the ignition? I like to be prepared for the inevitable, LOL. Patrick HERE-TIS................ http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512
SpeedySteve Posted June 24, 2008 Author #7 Posted June 24, 2008 Hi speedy. Where can I find this video about bypassing the ignition? I like to be prepared for the inevitable, LOL. thanks. Patrick And let me say it is not that hard to do. I did it in the parking lot of the motel with the standard tool kit and leatherman and lots of prayer. Well and I did walk to Walmart for some wire, tape and connections. SS
BradT Posted June 24, 2008 #8 Posted June 24, 2008 QUESTION...when the ignition went south on you did you also lose the sound system? I have no sounds anymore. Haven't checked the fuses on that end again. Just assumed it was connected to the ignition. Steve when mine went south all I had was the radio, nothing else, no dash lights or anything else. In the post http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512, when I repaired it I did not cut the wires, i just bared them enough to wrap the wire around the bared wire. I heard from someone else they cut the wires and when they did this the radio did NOT work after, but was able to ride home. Also in this repair you still need the key to start the bike, but it would turn over without the key turned on. I assume the key turned on the coils allowing the spark plugs to do there job. The ignition can be pulled apart and you can re use the top half so that you do not have to two keys. Brad
SpeedySteve Posted June 25, 2008 Author #9 Posted June 25, 2008 Thanks. The RS is at the dealers now. Put it together and rode it out today. They are looking it over. Kinda figured the radio deal was part of the ignition bypass surgery. The two key deal can be fixed by cutting the same key with two sides to it. One for the ignition side and the other for the gas cap, tourpak and saddlebags etc. Thanks again SS
Red1 Posted June 25, 2008 #10 Posted June 25, 2008 My dead ignition switch turned out to be 2 of the wires on the bottom of the switch had broken from their connection. They were soldered back in place and it works fine. I took it apart to check the work done by the shop, cleaned off all the contacts, checked all the soldered connections and re-assembled it. When it died, the radio worked in the ACC position, but not in the ON position. If it ever dies again, this is the first place I'd look and it's not that hard to get to. Remove the seat, remove the tank bolts and slide the tank back, remove the neck side covers and you're there. Once you get to the switch, there are 2 bolts at the base -remove them with a 5mm allen wrench. Then remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the switch and the wires and switch and contacts are all exposed. Since the switch is a mechanical switch, my guess would be that most of the dead ignition problems are probably the same as mine was - loose or disconnected wires at the bottom of the switch. I think the bottom piece fits snugly enough that it could hold the harness & wires in place even if 1 or more wires were broken from their contacts, thus resulting in intermittent ignition problems, at least for a while.
SaltyDawg Posted June 25, 2008 #11 Posted June 25, 2008 If they give you a new switch, try to keep the old one. Sombody made a posting couple weeks ago, with photo's showing how to Dissassemble the old switch and Repair it. If your interested in giveing it a try, and haveing a spare. Was it about repairing it or removing the tumblers to put into the new switch so you can use the original key? Muffinman knows how to do that. I have seen it somewhere before and it doesn't look to difficult.
allwx Posted June 25, 2008 #12 Posted June 25, 2008 Thanks to all for the information. Hope I never have to use it, but it's nice to know it's there if I do. Someone had asked why the ignition swich is so hard to remove. My understanding is that the factory does it as an anti-theft measure. The bolts that hold it in are designed to break off their heads at a predetermined torque, which makes them hard to remove. Patrick
BradT Posted June 26, 2008 #13 Posted June 26, 2008 Was it about repairing it or removing the tumblers to put into the new switch so you can use the original key? The switch is in too parts, a lower section which is the part that normally goes bad and the upper section is where the tumblers are and these can be separated, by two screws. Just pull them apart and replace the two sections. You can also clean the contacts. Problem is these two screws must be lock tighted together because they are tight BRad
SpeedySteve Posted July 17, 2008 Author #14 Posted July 17, 2008 Was it about repairing it or removing the tumblers to put into the new switch so you can use the original key? Muffinman knows how to do that. I have seen it somewhere before and it doesn't look to difficult. I was worried I was either gonna have to cut a key with the new ignition on one side and the gas cap, bags and tourpak on the other when they installed my new ignition. But fortunately the guys at K&N knew how to fix the tumblers. The Royal* is back on the road. Fixed under warrenty. SS
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