Jethroish Posted March 29, 2007 #1 Posted March 29, 2007 I don't really want the jack on the oil pan/bottom of the engine, but I cannot seam to get it placed onder the RSV to get the weight off the rear wheel to put on leveling links. Any help?
Freebird Posted March 29, 2007 #2 Posted March 29, 2007 Here is the ultimate solution. Larry makes a great product and anybody who owns and RSV should have one of these. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=69&cat=7 In the meantime, you would need to makes some spacers to sit between the stand and your frame. Some folks have used wood, some have used hockey pucks.
BuddyRich Posted March 29, 2007 #3 Posted March 29, 2007 I have one of those and they work great. Got the one with legs so I feel better about crawling around under it while its up. Its a big jack stand for a big bike.
relic Posted March 29, 2007 #4 Posted March 29, 2007 Ditto on Larry's adaptor being the perfect solution to unbalance lifting. Got mine about a month ago and don't know how I did without it. I always had to support the rear wheel with a block of wood because of where you had to put the lift,(not to damage any thing underside)If you are going to use a lift than this adaptor is a must!!!!
Little Bob Posted March 29, 2007 #5 Posted March 29, 2007 Just rec`d Larrys adpater for my Lakin lift and it works sweet. Nothing better in my mind . Everyone that has a RSV should have one. :080402gudl_prv:
Jethroish Posted March 29, 2007 Author #6 Posted March 29, 2007 Yep. After looking a bit under the bike, I saw that the jack alone was nto going to work.
RSTD-MN Posted March 29, 2007 #7 Posted March 29, 2007 Yep. After looking a bit under the bike, I saw that the jack alone was nto going to work. how does one work the jack, does it take two people? one to hold the bike upright and one to jack? or can you jack it up with bike resting on side stand? Thanks, David
Freebird Posted March 29, 2007 #8 Posted March 29, 2007 No...it is a one person job. Just roll the lift under the bike with the bike on the side stand. You insert it from the right side of the bike so the bike is leaning away from you. I hold the handlebar and the passenger grab rail when I start lifting the bike just to steady it. As you jack it up, the bike will straighten up and sit on the jack. Very easy.
gibvel Posted March 29, 2007 #9 Posted March 29, 2007 Or you could always rest the center stand on a 2 X 4 to help straighten it up some first then it will be a little more even and steady when you got to use the jack.
RedRider Posted March 29, 2007 #10 Posted March 29, 2007 1) Get the lift adapter from CarbonOne - I recommend the one with the legs. Excellent piece of work and makes a very stable platform for working on the bike. 2) Place the side stand on a 2x4 so the bike stands up a little straighter before you begin lifting. 3) Get someone to help you when installing the leveling links. It makes it easier if you can have someone lift the rear tire to line up the bolt holes. Just place a 2x4 under the wheel and have someone lift on the end of the board. Works great. 4) Grease all the needle bearings while you have it apart. 5) Enjoy the leveling links. It makes a noticable difference. RR
FreezyRider Posted March 29, 2007 #11 Posted March 29, 2007 1) Get the lift adapter from CarbonOne - I recommend the one with the legs. Excellent piece of work and makes a very stable platform for working on the bike. 2) Place the side stand on a 2x4 so the bike stands up a little straighter before you begin lifting. 3) Get someone to help you when installing the leveling links. It makes it easier if you can have someone lift the rear tire to line up the bolt holes. Just place a 2x4 under the wheel and have someone lift on the end of the board. Works great. 4) Grease all the needle bearings while you have it apart. 5) Enjoy the leveling links. It makes a noticable difference. RR And if you don't have someone to help you lift the rear tire, you can use your shop jack (if you have one) to lift the tire. That's what I did, and it worked slick. You can easily control the alignment of the holes that way.
RedRider Posted March 29, 2007 #12 Posted March 29, 2007 Good call Freezy. I didn't think of doing that. RR
Al Bates Posted March 29, 2007 #13 Posted March 29, 2007 The Only way to go. Larry's, CarbonOne. Get the lift adapter It's great and save alot of time. I recommend the one with the legs. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=69&cat=7
BigD Posted March 29, 2007 #14 Posted March 29, 2007 I couldn't agree more with you guys, this lift adapter is a must have. From working on to detailing the bike, it sure saves on the back.
Stoutman Posted March 29, 2007 #15 Posted March 29, 2007 The lift adapter is an excellent choice, but may not be in the card$, or maybe you need to get your bike fixed now. In that case you can use 4 hockey pucks between the bike and the lift. Cut a 1/4 piece of pie shaped notch out of one with a hack saw and use that one on the left front by the ignition cutoff switch for the side stand. The hard rubber pucks will not mar the paint on the frame. I've also used 1 inch thick hardwood blocks.
Jethroish Posted March 29, 2007 Author #16 Posted March 29, 2007 I did some measuring and cutting last night on a few pieces of 4x4. Trimmed it down to 3x3, notched out the length to cradle the frame. I hoep this will work for the time. I am going to take my time with and make sure the bike is stable before wrenching on anything. And I will have some one helping me. Otherwise, I will be taking up Rosebud on her offer.
Tartan Terror Posted March 29, 2007 #17 Posted March 29, 2007 It was posted earlier about a wood adapter that someone used to make. Check out this thread and it has all the measurements. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113&highlight=lift+wood
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