Wizard765 Posted June 16, 2008 #1 Posted June 16, 2008 Ok folks.. need some help here. Out on the weekend for about 1300 Kms. At one point stopped to stretch etc. Went to get started and the engine won't turn over. Found out that I'd hit the kill switch to off with my helmet. So I turned it back to run and still nothing. I rocked it a few times and at one point I heard a click inside the bike. After that it started and I had no more problems. Is there a relay or something attached to the kill switch? How do I prevent this from happening again? I never use that switch (except accidentally) HELP?? Wayne
Condor Posted June 16, 2008 #2 Posted June 16, 2008 Ok folks.. need some help here. Out on the weekend for about 1300 Kms. At one point stopped to stretch etc. Went to get started and the engine won't turn over. Found out that I'd hit the kill switch to off with my helmet. So I turned it back to run and still nothing. I rocked it a few times and at one point I heard a click inside the bike. After that it started and I had no more problems. Is there a relay or something attached to the kill switch? How do I prevent this from happening again? I never use that switch (except accidentally) HELP?? Wayne You might try using it to kill the engine... all the time. That way the contacts won't corrode and cause problems. I wish they didn't have one, but they do, so I live with it, and it's part of my start ritual...
bongobobny Posted June 16, 2008 #3 Posted June 16, 2008 You might try squirting some technician-in-a-can (contact cleaner) into the switch a few times while you switch it vigorously on and off to help rejuvinate it...
mbrood Posted June 16, 2008 #4 Posted June 16, 2008 You probably just heard the fuel pump relay kick in when the switch finally activated. probably time to lube the switch... WD40 ain't the answer.
GeorgeS Posted June 17, 2008 #5 Posted June 17, 2008 CRC ( brand name ) 2-26, electrical contact cleaner. Lowes, + Home Depot carry the stuff. Or Radio shack has same type of product. Also, check auto parts store.
Wizard765 Posted June 17, 2008 Author #6 Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks guys for the replys. The bottom line is that there is NO relay and the problem is the switch itself. Cleaning the contacts in the switch is the solution. I'll be doing that and using it often to keep it working. This place is AWSOME!!! Wayne
bobcat Posted June 17, 2008 #7 Posted June 17, 2008 I too want to thank everyone for their replies and solutions...I had the exact same thing happen to me this past weekend so I was watching this post with interest.. I'd like to bypass the kill switch..has anyone out there done that? If so, how'd you do it...To me the kill switch is nothing more than a PIA Thanks
Rich99 Posted June 17, 2008 #8 Posted June 17, 2008 I too want to thank everyone for their replies and solutions...I had the exact same thing happen to me this past weekend so I was watching this post with interest.. I'd like to bypass the kill switch..has anyone out there done that? If so, how'd you do it...To me the kill switch is nothing more than a PIA ThanksI remember those days back when I had my 83 1st gen. I had a bad miss and then every once and a while, it wouldn't start. Was up in arms and then decided to check the kill switch. Took it off and saw that it was caroded. Saw that you couldn't actually take it apart, so I just got out my can of electrical cleaner, gave it a good squirt and wala, problem fixed.
mbrood Posted June 17, 2008 #9 Posted June 17, 2008 A few guys have bypassed the kill switch and used it for other things like driving a relay for driving lights or... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23313&highlight=kill+switch
elguapo129 Posted June 23, 2009 #10 Posted June 23, 2009 I too want to thank everyone for their replies and solutions...I had the exact same thing happen to me this past weekend so I was watching this post with interest.. I'd like to bypass the kill switch..has anyone out there done that? If so, how'd you do it...To me the kill switch is nothing more than a PIA Thanks I've had my 84 for a week and half now and my switch has left me stranded more times than not. I've used contact cleaner, dielectric grease, a hair dryer, cleaned contacts myself...you name it. Yesterday it left me stranded in the parking lot for the last time. I cut the switch off and spliced the wires together just to get home. that worked just fine. Now, i'm figuring which way i'm going to go . If i can find a new/aftermarket switch that holds up a bit better I may use that. OR I'll put an eject button for the back seat.....still undecided. Good Luck
mbrood Posted June 23, 2009 #11 Posted June 23, 2009 Often when a switch starts acting up, it needs the contacts CLEANED not just lubricated. They are a moly-copper so there is a tendency to corrode some but the contact points can get a carbon "button" build up from the small spark of make or break. Clean these with fine emery cloth, a good lube of dialectric and they should be trouble free for another 20 years! Don't forget to lube the ball bearing and it's race in the toggle.
Venturous Randy Posted June 23, 2009 #12 Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) Let me throw you another ringer in here. I thought I had a kill switch problem that actually turned out to be a side stand switch problem. When I was having a problem with it running bad and not starting good, I would flip the hill switch on and off several times and it would start. But, when I checked resistance through the kill switch, it was fine. I found the resistance was in the side stand switch and when I was flipping the kill switch, I was evidently shocking the resistance through the side stand switch and it would start. It is easy to check the side stand switch resistance, just remove the left side panel and trace the wire from the switch to the connection. On any combination of the three wires with the side stand up or down, there should be no resistance or a complete open, nothing in between. It only takes a minute and is well worth the effort. RandyA Edited June 29, 2009 by Venturous Randy
elguapo129 Posted June 23, 2009 #13 Posted June 23, 2009 Let me throw you another ringer in here. I thought I had a kill switch problem that actually turned out to be a side stand switch problem. When I was having a problem with it running bad and not starting good, I would flip the hill switch on and off several times and it would start. But, when I checked resistance through the kill switch, I was fine. I found the resistance was in the side stand switch and when I was flipping the kill switch, I was evidently shocking the resistance through the side stand switch and it would start. It is easy to check the side stand switch resistance, just remove the left side panel and trace the wire from the switch to the connection. On any combination of the three wires with the side stand up or down, there should be no resistance or a complete open, nothing in between. It only takes a minute and is well worth the effort. RandyA YEah i thought of that acutally. The electric part of this is the only thing I have some knowledge of. But it ended up being what I thought, though who knows when the other will go bad.
84xj1100 Posted June 29, 2009 #14 Posted June 29, 2009 To all who have or are contemplating by-passing the kill switch, I would emplore you to reconsider. As an instructor of 13 yrs I can tell you that the intended use of that switch and actually using it in the start and shut down sequence is something that is passed on to new riders. As a former medic I can tell you that the purpose of that switch is paramount for safety at an accident scene. If ever I approached a motorcycle accident scene, the very first thing I would approach (yes even before the rider) was the bike, specifically to hit that switch and secure the scene. Although it can be a PITA simply use it in your start and shutdown sequence (FINE C's) so that it gets used and not corroded. That'll become part of a routine and in the event something does happen, you simply flick your thumb prior to impact and at least the bike will be secure from becoming a potential major safety concern.
6m459 Posted June 29, 2009 #15 Posted June 29, 2009 To all who have or are contemplating by-passing the kill switch, I would emplore you to reconsider. As an instructor of 13 yrs I can tell you that the intended use of that switch and actually using it in the start and shut down sequence is something that is passed on to new riders. As a former medic I can tell you that the purpose of that switch is paramount for safety at an accident scene. If ever I approached a motorcycle accident scene, the very first thing I would approach (yes even before the rider) was the bike, specifically to hit that switch and secure the scene. Although it can be a PITA simply use it in your start and shutdown sequence (FINE C's) so that it gets used and not corroded. That'll become part of a routine and in the event something does happen, you simply flick your thumb prior to impact and at least the bike will be secure from becoming a potential major safety concern. There is a tip over switch that kills the engine's ignition circuits if the bike is more than 60 degrees off vertical. Dropped my bike once and it did work. It resets itself when the bike was vertical again. I think that the engineers are way ahead of you. I have thought about bypassing my kill switch but have resolved not to unless I get stranded, then the gloves will come off. BTW, for folks who have had the kill switch go flakey and cause an intermittent misfire, can you elaborate a bit. Did the misfire happen at idle or only at roadspeeds? Cheers, Brian H.
84xj1100 Posted June 29, 2009 #16 Posted June 29, 2009 There is a tip over switch that kills the engine's ignition circuits if the bike is more than 60 degrees off vertical. Dropped my bike once and it did work. It resets itself when the bike was vertical again. I think that the engineers are way ahead of you. True enough, I have seen them but don't count on them. I have seen bikes on their side still in gear with rear tire still spinning, active electrical circuits and fuel spilling out all over the place.
6m459 Posted June 30, 2009 #17 Posted June 30, 2009 True enough, I have seen them but don't count on them. I have seen bikes on their side still in gear with rear tire still spinning, active electrical circuits and fuel spilling out all over the place. You are right. Better safe than sorry. Brian H.
ScottXD45 Posted June 30, 2009 #18 Posted June 30, 2009 BTW, for folks who have had the kill switch go flakey and cause an intermittent misfire, can you elaborate a bit. Did the misfire happen at idle or only at roadspeeds? Cheers, Brian H. My bike used to misfire at roadspeeds and I cleaned out the kill switch and it is much better. It would idle fine but missed in every gear while cruising. Also if I barely touched the switch it would die sometimes and now it doesn't.
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