Ignition switch or other??????

[Red1]

We were on the return trip from MS and about 50 miles from home, doing 76 in the left lane - all of a sudden - the bike no-go no-mo. I thought at first the bike was out of gas, but switching to reserve made no difference. And the last I checked I had 3/4 of a tank. So as I eased over to the shoulder with a dead engine, I shut it off and turned it on again - nothing. Once stopped, I checked the battery - all connections were good and the battery was at 13.5v. All the fuses, including the 30 amp main checked out as well - nothing blown. I had no dash lights, headlights or turn signals with the key ON, but on ACC - the radio worked.

 

I suspect it is the ignition switch, in part because when I had gassed up earlier and was pulling out from the station, I noticed the speedo, clock and fuel gauger were not working. I shut it of and turned it on and POOF - they all worked. Odd, I thought - but everything seemed OK. Then as I was going down the road, a couple times I felt a lack of of power - like she was missing or something. Then maybe 50 miles from home - she died.

 

So the question is - is there a "brain box" on these bikes that could be out? Or is the ignition switch the most likely culprit? Or is there a bad connector or wire that commonly comes loose? I remember reading something on the site here about these switches going funky for other members.

 

And if it is a bad switch - for those that have had it replaced - what is the cost range I can expect? (just so I can decide which arm & leg I can live without)

 

And, as luck would have it - I broke down on Hwy 151 N - directly across the street from the Honda/Kaw dealer, and the owner happened to be in the shop on Sunday and came over to see if he could help. Not wanting to disassemble the bike completely on the side of the road, with a storm moving in, he went back and got his trailer and loaded my bike & trailer and put it in his shop. I'm awaiting the diagnosis from them today. Nice guy - he went out of his way for us. Beaver Dam Honda/Kaw for anyone nearby the area - if their mechanics are as good as the customer service the owner showed my wife & I - I'll drive out of my way to give him some business again. On purpose next time.

 

So - useful insights, please - from those that have experience this issue.

[Gary N.]

Sure sounds like a typical ignition switch issue. Intermittent at first then complete break down.

[Squeeze]

This sounds pretty much as the Ignition Switch at Fault.

[GeorgeS]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread?t=512

 

This is the emergency bypass, Instructions.

Also, the switch can be remove, and dissassembled, and in the bottom section, you can clean up the contacts.

Sombody posted a threat last month, with photos of the dissassembly process.

Maby sombody can find that posting.

[SaltyDawg]

It sounds like the switch. Bypassing it will get you started, replacements are about $100.00 from what I have read.

 

Glad the owner was there to help you out. See there really are nice people left in this world.

[Norm]

I have a 99 Venture and last summer every once in awhile I would have to bump the key a little to make contact. I bought a new ignition switch this spring from yamahasportsplaza.com for $125.00. I pulled the tank to replace the switch to find out the two bolts that hold it in are the anti theft type that are rounded so you can't use a wrench and they don't have slots for a screw driver Does anyone know how to get the bolts out??

[BradT]

Norm I cut slots in the top of those rounded heads and used a screwdriver. I could not break it but an impact screwdriver would help.

 

I ended up cutting the nut that is welded to the frame off.

 

Brad

[Norm]

Thanks Brad I'll see what I can do!!

Norm

[Eddie Fulmer]

Go to Buckeye performance and order the switch. He'll include the new screws and everything to get you going again. I drilled out the old screws took the switch out and got hold of the studs with some pliers and screwed them out. Replaced them with the new ones and I was in business. He will also send you the screws to replace in the switch assembly so you can keep the same key. Rick knows his stuff and will help you out. If I cna help you out send me your phone number and i'll give you a call. Eddie Fulmer

[Bubbajbi]

I took mine apart and cleaned it myself. Saved $125 on a new one. It is easy but you have to either slot the bolts or drill them out (I opted for drilling them out). If you do it, just use a pencil eraser to clean the contacts. It will clean any dirt off without taking off the protective coating that is on there to prevent corrosion. Mine works perfect!

[Red1]

Well, I got the bike back Wed. They claimed 2 of the wires had broken off the contacts and that they soldered them back on. However - now the kickstand cut-off switch is not functioning properly - she won't run or start with the side stnd down and the trans in nuetral. God, I hate having other people work on my bike.

 

I ordered a new switch already and will tear it apart myself tomorrow. I think I'll install the new one and clean up the old one. Thanks for the tips on removing the bolts - I noticed they were anti-theft bolts. So how do they put them on in the first place? I also found the info on bypassing the switch (thanks Freebird)- and that has become part of my on-board tools and manual. Along with a membership in the AARP Motoring program - just in case.

 

So thanks for all your input.

[gibvel]

So how do they put them on in the first place?

 

They've got a bolt head on them when new. When they reach a certain torque, the top just snaps off.