Question on Higher Output Stator

[kantornado]

I need to know how many of you have gotten the Higher Output Stator and what you think of it??

 

Is 55 watts enough for allot of lights?? As we all know the VENTURES is not enough.

 

I want to add some more lights and with pulling the trailer I know I will be under powered

on the stator.

 

I just keep adding more stuff more:mo money: on my favorite VENTURE................Ron

[SaltyDawg]

I need to know how many of you have gotten the Higher Output Stator and what you think of it??

 

Is 55 watts enough for allot of lights?? As we all know the VENTURES is not enough.

 

I want to add some more lights and with pulling the trailer I know I will be under powered

on the stator.

 

I just keep adding more stuff more:mo money: on my favorite VENTURE................Ron

 

I have no experience with the higher output stator, but there are things you can do to reduce the load right now.

 

Switch all turn signals and the brake lights to LED's and pull the fuse for the carb heaters.

[kantornado]

Thanks for the quick response, I am in the process of switching all turn and tail lights to L.E.D.

 

I am not going to unplug the carb heaters. Thanks for the idea..............Ron

[1sttenor]

I did the same on mine, as far as going with LEDs. Since I've put them on the trailer I have only a .1v drop in voltage when the trailer is on.

[pegscraper]

I think you must mean 55 amps, rather than watts. I don't have Buckeye's HO stator, but I want it. I recently PMd a few members asking how it was working out. The general response was that it worked fine, just as long as you solder and hard wire the connections and get rid of the snap connectors. Fifty-five amps is a huge amount of power. That amount should be able to run everything you want, plus heated gear for two people besides.

 

Some of my older cars have only 35 amp alternators on them, and they've always been able to run lights, wipers, radio, AC, all at the same time, and keep the battery charged just fine.

[kperkins]

I now have over 8000 miles on Buckeyes H.O. stator with no problems. I have 2 [ Motolights & Yamaha ] sets of driving lights, HD brake-tail light, 2 led brake-running lights, Diamond R bag lights, & led fork lights. I have a ampmeter on the bike. With the ignition switch on & all the lights & brake lights on, it pulls 42 amps. I have had no problem with the stator keeping the battery charged.

[kantornado]

pegscraper your right amps not watts.LOL whole different program.

 

Anyway I guess the 55 amp is what I will get.

 

Its FRIDAY the 13th and FATHERS DAY and my BIRTHDAY are right around the corner.

 

I need this for the bike.......................................Ron

[Royal Venturer]

My birthday is fathers day.....It only COST me once for taking all the kids to dinner.....I'm gettn' off cheap....maybe it'll be enough of a savings so I can get that new stator......I might definitely get a charge out that!!! Har har

[ahoutzer]

I put a switch on my carb heaters. It is a push-button switch, mounted through passenger board backing plate. I prefer to leave the carb heaters on, because there may have actually been some reason for them, but will turn them off when I need the extra power for heated clothing.

[pegscraper]

Carburetors and bikes ran fine for decades without carb heaters. But now that Y put them in, why are so many afraid to disconnect them? They're totally unnecessary. Though with a 55 amp stator, I would imagine there's plenty of room for them anyway.

[Tom]

Ron I have all LEDS on my trailer and it does not hardly affect the output..Also LEDS on the taillight.

[kantornado]

It would of been nice to here more testimonials but Kperkins was good enough for me.

aside from having the HD tail light and a SD LED I have engine LED lights and also

I have the head light that's on the bike and a pair of 55 watt DL's and two 35 watt DL's and I want to add another set of 55 watt lights and make the 35 watt lights 55 watt also.

 

When I am done all 6 DL's and head light will be 55 watts and all other lights will be LED's.

Then when I am cruising through the desert night I can see everything and people will see me.

 

I adjust the lights low enough to where the lights don't bother other drivers........Ron

[AZSpyder]

Does anyone know for sure this is a 55 amp stator? I couldn't find the specs in the owner's manual but 55 amps is quite a bit. Just for entertainment I totaled all the lights listed in the manual and it is still under 15 amps. There is another 5 amps for the carb heaters and no idea on anything else (ignition, audio, cooling fan, horn, etc.) Still seems like lots of room left if we are dealing with 55 amps.

Jerry

[kantornado]

The 99 to 08 VENTURES have a 30 amp stator and is not enough to keep up with all of the ad on's I want on the bike.

I pull a trailer and I want to make sure I have enough charging power with all the lights

and maybe a heated suite for the NAVIGATOR.

 

I had all my lights on the other night for about 4 hours and when I stopped for awhile

the battery did not have enough power to start her up.

 

I thought I gave up pushing bikes when I got rid of my HD.LOL

 

It started right away but I really don't want to be somewhere I cannot get her started.

.........................................Ron

[larrysyner]

Hi guys,

 

Just wanted to say that I'm a new VR owner and I really enjoy this site. I don't post much, mainly because I'm still learning, but you guys are great with sharing the information.

 

SheepDawg

[SaltyDawg]

 

I am not going to unplug the carb heaters. Thanks for the idea..............Ron

 

I live in Eastern NC and I have ridden my RSV to work everyday this past winter. I rode in temps down to 14 degrees with no carb heaters and never had a single problem. I ride with my High Beam on, passing lights, heated socks, and heated gloves and have no problem what so ever. I have never heard of a carb icing up and can think of no reason that they should be on. You can get a lot of power back by disconnecting them, and it really won't effect your bike at all.

[BuddyRich]

Carb icing is a real problem under certain conditions. This is straight from the FAA. No were not flying but its still carbs and a loss of power at the wrong time is not a good thing.

 

• Fuel ice forms at and downstream from the point that fuel is introduced when the moisture content of the air freezes as a result of the cooling caused by vaporization. It generally occurs between 40-80°F, but may occur at even higher temperatures. It can occur whenever the relative humidity is more than 50%.
  
• Throttle ice is formed at or near a partly closed throttle valve. The water vapor in the induction air condenses and freezes due to the venturi effect cooling as the air passes the throttle valve. Since the temperature drop is usually around 5°F, the best temperatures for forming throttle ice would be 32-37°F although a combination of fuel and throttle ice could occur at higher ambient temperatures.
  

In general, carburetor ice will form in temperatures between 32-50°F when the relative humidity is 50% or more. If visible moisture is present, it will form at temperatures between 15-32°F. A carburetor air temperature (CAT) gauge is extremely helpful to keep the temperatures within the carburetor in the proper range. Partial carburetor heat is not recommended if a CAT gauge is not installed. Partial throttle (cruise or letdown) is the most critical time for carburetor ice. It is recommended that carburetor heat be applied before reducing power and that partial power be used during letdown to prevent icing and overcooling the engine.

[SaltyDawg]

If there was a problem with icing then I would expect it to happen on every carbed vehicle on the planet. It can't be common only to planes and the RSV. I know we feel like we are flying at times, but it is only wishful thinking. LOL

 

I'm not arguing the point but, until someone actually reports they had their carbs ice up, I feel having the extra power going to my lights and/or heating equipment is a better deal.

[dharnie]

I am thinking that the carb heaters act similar to what mechanics do with high performance racing engines and now also for fuel economy for better dispersion into the cylinders and more efficient burning of the fuel?

[SaltyDawg]

I am thinking that the carb heaters act similar to what mechanics do with high performance racing engines and now also for fuel economy for better dispersion into the cylinders and more efficient burning of the fuel?

 

 

I look at it this way, those carbs are sitting on top of a big ole V-4 with a metal gas tank reflecting radiant heat back down. I find it hard to believe they would ice in any condition.

 

Those race car guys are also looking for ways to get a tenth of a second more, heated blankets over the engine, heaters in the oil tank, running hot water through the radiator all that to get another .1 sec. I don't think it's as much to make them optimal as it is to have them warm up to racing temp quicker to get optimal HP and speed.

[Squeeze]

I look at it this way, those carbs are sitting on top of a big ole V-4 with a metal gas tank reflecting radiant heat back down. I find it hard to believe they would ice in any condition.

 

Those race car guys are also looking for ways to get a tenth of a second more, heated blankets over the engine, heaters in the oil tank, running hot water through the radiator all that to get another .1 sec. I don't think it's as much to make them optimal as it is to have them warm up to racing temp quicker to get optimal HP and speed.

 

Heaten up anything on a Race Car always has to do with saving the Item for longer Endurance or Safety. Heated Oil and Water gives less Temparature Difference, therefore a shorter warming up Period and almost instant Abiltity to push the Engine to the Limits. Warming up Tires is to have them close to the working Winodow for instant Function. Them just don't stick to the Ground without being hot.

 

In MotoGP, they even use Heaters for the front Fork, because the Oil isn't working properly when cold.

 

I fully second the Carbs are safe inside the 'V' Statement.

Edited June 15, 2008 by Squeeze

[whozleft]

Don't the carb heaters go off after they reach a certain temperature? I guess I only thought tey were on when it was cold at start up.

[ahoutzer]

The carb heaters are on a thermostat, so that they turn on and off at certain temperatures. I don't remember what the temperature range is. One more point to add to the question of the purpose of heating the carbs: the heaters are not on until the bike is in gear. On a cold morning, when you pull out the choke and start the bike and let it warm up at idle with the choke on for a minute while you suit up in your gear, the carb heaters are NOT on. Then, when you sit on the bike and push the choke back in and put her in gear, THEN the heaters cut on -- if the temp is cold enough. This time of year, where I live, the carb heaters won't come on at all.

 

This doesn't seem compatible with the idea that the carbs are being pre-heated for performance purposes, a la race car components. In that case, wouldn't you heat them up BEFORE putting the bike in gear, so that they would be up to temp instantly when you take off? Yet some engineer has made the effort to wire the heaters so that they are tied into a circuit that only has power when the bike is NOT warming up in neutral.

 

You can prove this if 1) your RSV has any kind of voltmeter added to it (I have the Kury Akyn LED type) AND 2) you have cool mornings where you are -- probably in the fifties or cooler (won't see that here until late August or September). Under those conditions, just start the bike on a cool morning and watch the voltmeter while at idle. When you put it in gear while at idle, you will see the meter drop. That is due to four 15-watt carb heaters kicking on when the bike is in gear, but not in neutral.

[SaltyDawg]

If I remember correctly the car heaters come on at 63 and go off at 67. For some reason those numbers come to mind. Either way I pulled the fuse shortly after frying my battery using heated gloves and socks. Since then I have had no problem with power or icing.

[MAINEAC]

Does anyone know for sure this is a 55 amp stator? I couldn't find the specs in the owner's manual but 55 amps is quite a bit. Just for entertainment I totaled all the lights listed in the manual and it is still under 15 amps. There is another 5 amps for the carb heaters and no idea on anything else (ignition, audio, cooling fan, horn, etc.) Still seems like lots of room left if we are dealing with 55 amps.

Jerry

 

Can anyone answer Jerry's question?? I'd like to know myself... Maybe someone with the upgraded stator could provide test results.