NotAliasing Posted March 31 #1 Posted March 31 Hey all, nice forum you have here, been browsing around and between here and the service manual, I've gotten to the point where I'm close to having a running bike! Did the single carb conversion, had it running, just needed to adjust the carb then take it on a road test, but... Then the spark flatlined. I replaced the battery since i had an old one i was hoping would make it to the bike running that finally smoked out, bike cranks very good now with new battery. The pickup coils test nice at around 108 ohms each, the primary coils measure nice at 2.7 ohms, i have yet to get any reading out of any of the many coils i have on hand for the secondary coils, not sure if im doing the procedure wrong. Im getting 12 volts to the red/white wire on the ICM connector, the immobilizer that trips at 60 degrees seems to be functional and not cutting it out, i have 3 ICM units, 2 from 1984 bikes, and a newer, presumably ignitech, box but not sure what year. no markings. none work, now. I have swapped my fusebox from the glass fuses to bladed fuses, but im unhappy with the way its structured, i think i accidently got a circuit one and not an independent circuit fusebox, ordered a new one thats on the way. My question(s) are: Whats left to check? How do you check the secondary coil? I dont think im doing it right, since its not giving any reading on any coil i have, on the bike or not. All the connectors seem like they, well, connect. How would you check for pulses from the pickups to see if the ICM is even getting the command to fire? Thanks a bunch! I'll keep poking around at the information y'all have around here.
Marcarl Posted Wednesday at 02:26 AM #2 Posted Wednesday at 02:26 AM Maybe it's the kill switch or the side stand switch.
saddlebum Posted Wednesday at 01:26 PM #3 Posted Wednesday at 01:26 PM (edited) Post a pic of the ignitech box. The unit is more or less universal within reason It also depends what bike it came off of and therefore requires the correct programing for the bike involved. If you have the complete kit it should include a harness to connect to a laptop so it can be programmed for your bike. You should be able to download the correct file from ignitech. If not I may still have the files on my computer. With regards to testing your coils, there are shop manuals downloaded to the tech section on this site. Check and clean all the connections even if they look clean and make sure there is good drag and tension on your connector terminals by using a terminal of the correct size. I almost replaced a perfectly good cdi unit once and ended up not needing to after cleaning all the connections. Also check the harness connections going to your stator on the left side of the bike. Edited Wednesday at 01:40 PM by saddlebum
NotAliasing Posted Thursday at 06:52 PM Author #4 Posted Thursday at 06:52 PM On 4/2/2025 at 8:26 AM, saddlebum said: pic of the ignitech box See attached. All connectioms are clean and steady to the stator and to the pickup coils and to the ignition coils. I get 9.8V to the ICM while cranking, my pickup coils generate a good voltage signal and ohm out fine. My spark plug wires all ohm within spec. I think im pretty much narrowed down to the ICM. Ill try and see if i cant reprogram the one i have. I also dont know if spending a long time off the bike could kill these ignitech units, either.
saddlebum Posted 21 hours ago #5 Posted 21 hours ago (edited) Cannot see why it would. If you cannot find the proper software file for it assuming it may not have the correct one for your bike, let me know and I will try to find the one I have. It should still be on one of my hard drives which I never throw out. Edited 21 hours ago by saddlebum
NotAliasing Posted 20 hours ago Author #6 Posted 20 hours ago On 4/1/2025 at 9:26 PM, Marcarl said: Maybe it's the kill switch or the side stand switch. Checked this, sidestand switch is operating correctly, though needs cleaning as it gums up and sticks. Light goes off on dash so its functioning. I believe my kill switch is functioning as it cuts power to the starter in the off position. i believe its just the one red/white cable this switch cuts on or off so it should be alright. Pickup coils also send voltage signals out, so i think they are good. I think im pretty much narrowed down to a bad ICM, unless something like a bad ground can cause this issue? The battery level indicator light also came back on, even though i have the fix for non-liquid batteries on the bike. Maybe related? Where does the harness ground to the bike, if anywhere other than the negative terminal of the battery? I see the wiring diagram has a 'to frame earth', but im not sure where thats physically located on the bike. Thoughts?
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