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Posted

I did a bit of research here, and couldn't quite come up with what I was looking for. Anyway, I just finished a trip out to the Rockies, and got back to Bismarck day before yesterday. I noticed a slight growling sound that I hadn't heard before, and earlier that day the speedo needle had a little shake in it at certain speeds. Well, this morning we're going over to Mandan, ND and when we pulled into town I noticed the speedo had just quit altogether. It made a couple feeble attempts to come back to life over the next couple miles, but during the rest of my trip home (about 250 miles) it showed absolutely no life. From what I've read, it looks like I can remove the headlight assembly, remove the speedo cable and check to see if it's still in one piece, and then move on from there. Does this sound reasonable or am I in for major surgery?:mo money: The bike's got about 48K on it now, 4k since March. Thanks

Posted

Actually this a common problem on these speedometers and the fix SHOULD be part of routine maintenance. The problem is the bearing where the cable comes into the speedometer. The good fix is to take the speedometer out and with a syringe or something, put some good grease on the bearing in the very bottom. If your's has been run too long growling, you may have damaged it so bad that grease is not going to fix it. You will just have to disassemble it and see what all is torn up.

RandyA

Posted

First, remove the Cable shroud at the front Axel. Then Pull out the Inner cable, check its condition. It might be a twisted mess.

 

Then remove the other end at the speedo, and determine if the bushing if frozen, or not. You might get a temporary fix, just by shooting some lubricant up in there.

Posted

Okay,that gives me something to go on. If I do have to remove the gauge cluster, what's the easiest way to get it out? I've been looking through the manuals and can't find a reference for it. Thx guys.

Posted

There are two bolts behind the cluster. If you use a long 1/4 in extension and a nice wobble socket, you can take them out and put them back in that way, It is a tight fit. I thing some people will take out the headlight for additional room.

 

When you do get it out and if you brake the case open, the dimmer knob uses a small screwdriver to get the screw out. Yes it is dark in there and cramped, might not even see it.

Posted

on 1st gen, to remove the " cluster" remove windshield and trim, and headlight, then a couple bolts, Not hard to do.

 

Just go slow.

 

However just by removeing the headlight assembly, useing a " long " long nose plyers, you can reach up in the area and get the " Outer Shroud " , remove by loosening the Nut with the plyers.

 

At the Speedo end, basicly the same set up as you see down at the Front Axel end of the cable.

 

The INNER cable drops right out from the bottom, Start here, pull it out and if its not damaged, just hand greese it, the entire length.

 

I just shot some light lubricating Oil up into the Speedo Bushing, after removeing the Outer shroud

 

The bushing get dry, thats what causes the problem

Posted
Lastly, don't get so excited that you forget to screw the speedometer cable sheath back on. Been there, done that.

 

 

TIGHT!! I tightened mine with my hand took off and lost the cable never did find...

Posted

Last night I did some checking when I got back. When I spin the cable from the bottom end, the speedo shows life. The cable itself is well greased/lubed and is in good shape. The bearing area does look dry, no shavings, very little noise coming from speedo when I spin the cable, and front wheel end of cable sheeth is greasy on the outside. I've still got to get the front wheel off the ground to see if that unit up there is working. Got a new cable on order, and am going to try to find some lithium grease or some other good lubricant to spray into that bearing.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Okay, finally, it's back together. Waiting for these parts can be excrutiating. Here's the synopsis.

 

Speedo quit, cable, speedo itself okay. Tore apart the fron wheel, the hub unit itself spun freely (part number 26H-25190-00-00), but the clutch meter (341-25149-00-00) was torn up. So, we replaced that, its retainer and seal. Upon further investigation, the hub unit was crudded up with rust, so my mechanic took it upon himself to take it apart, clean it, polish it, regrease and put it all back together when the parts finally arrived. As of right now, it's working without any problems. Thanks to all for their input and assistance.

 

Oh, I'd post pictures, but the wife's got the camera and she's away for the next 6 weeks.

 

Joe

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